Wright Products - Colonial Tie Down Push Button Door Latch for Screen and Storm Doors, Black

Why I reached for the Wright Colonial latch

My storm door’s original handle failed in the most irritating way: the push button started sticking and the latch never quite caught the strike. I wanted a straight-ahead replacement that didn’t require re-drilling my door, looked appropriate on a colonial-style entry, and—most importantly—worked every single time. The Wright Colonial push-button latch checked the right boxes for an out-swinging storm/screen door: traditional styling, a black finish that blends in, and a mechanism designed for the common 1-3/4-inch mounting hole spacing.

Installation experience

If you’re replacing an existing latch, this is about as painless as it gets. The exterior handle, interior lever, spindle, latch body, two strike plates, shims, and screws are all in the box. On my door, the existing holes lined up with the 1-3/4-inch spacing, so I didn’t have to touch a drill. If you’re starting from scratch, you’ll need three holes on those centers—follow the included template and mark carefully.

The spindle comes with break-off notches to accommodate different door thicknesses. Here’s my advice: test fit before cutting. Insert the spindle, seat both handles loosely, and see where the button travel lands. You want the exterior button to fully depress without bottoming out and the interior lever to return crisply under spring tension. I trimmed one notch with a pair of pliers and was right on the money for a 1-inch-thick aluminum storm door.

The kit includes two strike plates and shims for adjusting the backset so the latch tongue meets the strike face properly. Don’t skip this step. Even a well-built door can sag slightly over time or have a frame that’s not perfectly plumb. I used the narrower strike with a single shim to bring the engagement face right to the latch. The result was a satisfying, smooth catch without slamming.

A few small tips from my bench:
- If you’re mounting to a metal door, pre-thread the screws gently by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- A piece of painter’s tape over your bit or template line helps prevent chipping on painted surfaces.
- Dry-fit the latch and strike before tightening everything down; a millimeter of adjustment at the strike goes a long way.

Total time, including spindle trimming and strike tuning, was about 10 minutes.

Build and ergonomics

This is a simple, honest piece of hardware with a surprisingly solid feel. The push button has a defined, linear action, and the return spring snaps it back promptly. The interior lever isn’t flimsy; you can operate it with the back of your hand while carrying groceries and not worry about bending anything. The latch mechanism itself is metal where it counts, and after several weeks of use, I haven’t felt any slop develop.

The black finish reads more “satin” than “gloss,” which I prefer. It hides fingerprints and looks at home on both painted and wood-trimmed doors. After some hard daily use—including a few accidental door slams—it’s held up without scratching or flaking.

A quick note on the “No Lock Out” feature: it’s designed so you don’t end up stuck outside because of how the interior latch is set. This isn’t a security lockset; it’s a convenience feature that lets a storm or screen door latch reliably without turning your porch into an escape room. If you need a keyed cylinder for security, look at a different style of handle; this one is about day-to-day functionality.

Fit and compatibility

You’ll want to confirm a few basics before buying:
- Door type: out-swinging storm or screen doors only.
- Door thickness: roughly 3/4 inch to 1-1/4 inches. If your door is thicker, the included spindle likely won’t reach.
- Hole spacing: 1-3/4 inches between the mounting holes. If your existing holes don’t match, you’ll be drilling.

The two included strikes cover most common jamb profiles. If your frame has a deep reveal or a non-standard angle, the included shims give you some wiggle room to bring the latch and strike into alignment. I ended up reusing my existing strike after confirming the latch met it squarely; that’s a reasonable approach if your current hardware isn’t beat up.

Handing isn’t an issue on this model—the exterior push-button and interior lever layout works the same on left- or right-hinged out-swing doors.

Performance in daily use

What matters most with this category is consistency. The Wright Colonial latch closes cleanly, opens with a predictable push, and doesn’t require you to re-learn a technique to avoid sticking. Even on windy days when the closer accelerates the door, the latch catches without a bounce. Paired with a properly tuned closer, I never had to slam the door for it to latch.

The interior action is light, and the outside button has just enough travel to telegraph that the latch is fully disengaged. Return tension is balanced—no harsh snap, no lazy return. After a few weeks, everything still feels tight.

Noise is modest; you’ll hear a soft click as the latch tongue drops into the strike. If you’re hearing a clack or metallic grind, that’s almost always a sign the strike needs a tiny nudge inward or outward. The included shims make that a five-minute correction.

What could be better

• Instructions: The included guide gets you there, but it’s sparse on troubleshooting. A one-page diagram showing spindle length examples and strike/shim combinations would save guesswork for first-time installers.
• Security expectations: This is not a keyed lock, and it’s worth being explicit. It’s designed for keeping a storm/screen door closed and convenient, not for resisting forced entry. Pair it with a solid primary entry lock.
• Fresh installs: If you’re drilling a new door, the template could be clearer about hole diameters and the exact relation between handle position and latch body. Measure twice and mark a centerline before you commit.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re the places where a little extra clarity would help DIYers.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners replacing a worn or broken latch on an out-swinging storm or screen door with 1-3/4-inch mounting hole spacing.
• Landlords and property managers who want a durable, consistent handle they can install quickly across multiple units.
• Anyone wanting a clean, traditional look in a black finish that doesn’t scream “replacement part.”

Who should look elsewhere:
- Folks needing a keyed lock or integrated deadbolt on the storm door.
- Doors outside the supported thickness range or with non-standard hole spacing (unless you’re comfortable drilling new holes).
- In-swing doors—this isn’t the right hardware.

Maintenance and longevity

There’s very little to maintain. A drop of light oil on the latch tongue and a quick wipe of the exterior button once a season is enough. If you live near salt air, an occasional wash to remove residue will help the finish last longer. As with any latch, the number one longevity factor is alignment: keep the strike true, and the internals won’t be fighting friction every time you close the door.

Final thoughts and recommendation

The Wright Colonial latch earns its keep by doing the basics right: straightforward installation, solid metal feel, predictable operation, and useful adjustment options with the strikes and shims. It’s not a flashy product, but that’s the point. A storm or screen door handle should disappear into the background and just work—day after day, year after year.

I recommend this latch for anyone replacing a handle on an out-swinging storm or screen door within the standard thickness and hole spacing. You’ll get a durable, tidy-looking upgrade that installs quickly, aligns easily, and won’t lock you out. If you’re chasing security or have an oddball door geometry, choose a different category of hardware. For most households, though, this is the reliable, low-drama fix that keeps the door closing smoothly and your hands free for everything else.