ReigaHood US Flat Slot Storm Door Handle Complete Set Fits for Larson and Wright Screen Door Hardware, 2-1/2" Handle PZ, 7/8" Backset, 7-1/4" Trimplate H.C., Non-Handed, Matte Black

A tired storm‑door latch can turn a simple trip outside into a two‑handed wrestling match. I recently replaced a worn assembly on an older out‑swinging aluminum door with the ReigaHood storm door handle set, and it brought the door back to life—provided I respected its strict fit requirements and took my time during install.

What this set is (and isn’t)

This is a complete flat‑slot mortise handle and lock kit for out‑swinging storm doors between 1 and 2 inches thick. It’s non‑handed, so it works for left or right swing doors. The handle‑to‑cylinder spacing (PZ) is 2‑1/2 inches, the backset is 7/8 inch, trim plate screw holes are 7‑1/4 inches apart, and the lock faceplate screws are 7 inches apart. Those numbers matter. If your existing door doesn’t match them—or can’t be persuaded to—this isn’t the right kit.

What you get: a mortise lock body, strike plate, inside and outside levers, matching escutcheons, a square spindle, a keyed cylinder, and all mounting hardware. The finish is a uniform matte black that plays nicely with both modern and traditional trim.

Build quality and feel

The levers have a simple, clean profile with a slightly flattened grip that feels comfortable, even with gloved hands. The finish resisted fingerprints and small scuffs while I wrestled with alignment, and it matched other black exterior hardware close enough that no one will notice a difference from a few feet away.

The mortise body is solid and the action smoothed out after the first dozen cycles. Out of the box there was a hint of graininess as the latch moved across the flat slot; a small dab of silicone lubricant on the latch face and strike plate took care of that. Once installed, the lever return felt positive, without the mushiness that plagues tired storm door hardware.

Fit and compatibility: measure twice

Before removing anything, I measured the existing setup. You’ll want to verify four things:

• Door thickness: 1–2 inches
• PZ (center of cylinder to center of handle spindle): 2‑1/2 inches
• Backset (edge of door to center of spindle): 7/8 inch
• Screw spacings: 7‑1/4 inches on the trim plate; 7 inches on the lock faceplate

On my door, three of the four matched; the exterior trim holes were just a hair tight. I used a step bit to enlarge them by less than 1/16 inch, touched up the raw edge with paint, and moved on. If your door is significantly off any of these dimensions, expect more than “minor modification.”

Installation experience

I’d rate the install as straightforward for anyone comfortable with door hardware, with two caveats: spindle length and cylinder alignment.

• Removing the old set: I kept the original screws and strike on hand. That was a smart move; one of the provided machine screws was slightly short for my interior trim stackup, and reusing an original fastener saved a run to the store. Put a scrap of cardboard under your screwdriver to avoid dinging paint.

• Test fit the mortise body: Before committing, I slid the new lock body into the door pocket to check depth and faceplate alignment. The 7‑inch screw spacing landed perfectly; the latch lined up with the existing strike with only a minor shim tweak.

• Spindle cutting: The included square spindle comes long. You must trim it. I marked the length with the exterior lever and cylinder dry‑fitted, then cut at the nearest factory notch with a hacksaw. Don’t eyeball this—too short and you can’t recover. I deburred the cut with a file to avoid chewing up the internal cam.

• Cylinder and cam engagement: The keyed cylinder has to engage the lock body cleanly. If the cylinder binds when you tighten the escutcheon, back off and reseat it. Forcing it can snap a tailpiece or leave you with a cylinder that turns but doesn’t throw the latch. A light hand and incremental tightening did the trick for me.

• Final alignment: I mounted the outside lever loosely, installed the interior lever, and cycled the latch a dozen times before final torque. This exposed a small rub on the strike; a few file strokes eliminated it.

Total time: just under an hour, including the minor hole enlargement and spindle trim.

Everyday performance

Once installed and bedded in, the handle feels reassuringly solid. The lever action is light, with a crisp return. The latch engages the strike positively without slamming the door, and the key cylinder turns cleanly with no granular feedback. On windy days, the door stayed latched without needing a hard pull. I noticed no rattle from the trim or lever, even after a few weeks of daily use.

Noise is minimal; if your storm door has a closer that slams, you’ll want to tune that separately to get the full “new door” feel.

Security and expectations

This is storm door hardware, not a deadbolt for a primary entry. It’s adequate to keep the storm door shut and provide incidental security, but it shouldn’t be your only line of defense. The cylinder operates as it should and the latch holds firmly, but the door and frame construction will ultimately limit security more than this set.

Durability notes

The matte black finish shrugged off a month of sun and rain without chalking or spotting. The latch face showed expected brightening where it meets the strike, but no peening or deformation. I recommend a drop of silicone or PTFE lube on the latch and a tiny smear on the strike once a year—more often if you live near salt air.

What could trip you up

• Non‑universal fit: If your PZ, backset, or screw spacing don’t match, you’re into modification territory. Check your measurements carefully before buying.

• Spindle length: Cut once, correctly. If you cut the spindle too short, the lever may not engage, and you’ll be stuck. Measure with everything dry‑fitted.

• Cylinder seating: Misalignment can cause a crunchy turn or partial throws. Tighten the escutcheon screws gradually and test as you go.

• Door thickness stackups: If you have storm‑door accessories (closer brackets, built‑up weatherstripping), screw length may be marginal. Keep your original hardware; you may need a longer machine screw or a different thread.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners with out‑swinging storm doors that match the 2‑1/2 inch PZ, 7/8 inch backset, and listed screw spacings
• Folks who prefer a clean, low‑sheen black finish and a lever over a pushbutton latch
• DIYers comfortable with careful measuring, light drilling, and cutting a spindle

Tips for a clean install

• Photograph your old hardware before removal, front and back. It’s a handy reference for orientation and screw lengths.
• Test fit every component before trimming the spindle. Blue painter’s tape can hold parts in place while you mark.
• Use a step bit to enlarge trim holes; it leaves cleaner edges in thin aluminum skins than a twist bit.
• Deburr every cut. A sharp edge on the spindle will chew the lock internals.
• If the latch doesn’t sit deep into the strike, loosen the hinges and pull the door toward the stop as you retighten, or shim the strike slightly.

Pros

• Full kit with matching components and a consistent finish
• Non‑handed design simplifies setup for left or right swings
• Smooth, positive lever action once aligned
• Reasonably forgiving to tune, provided your measurements match

Cons

• Not universal; strict dimensional requirements
• Spindle trimming is mandatory and easy to mess up if you rush
• Instructions are basic; experienced DIYers will be fine, beginners may need a video or two
• May require minor hole enlargement or reuse of original hardware

Bottom line

The ReigaHood storm door handle set is a solid, good‑looking replacement for flat‑slot mortise storm door hardware—if your door matches its dimensions. The parts fit together well, the finish is attractive, and the action is smooth once installed. It’s not a puzzle‑box: measure accurately, dry‑fit everything, cut the spindle carefully, and you’ll be rewarded with a door that feels new again.

Recommendation: I recommend this set for anyone with a compatible out‑swinging storm door who’s comfortable with light modification and careful measuring. If your door’s measurements differ from the 2‑1/2 inch PZ and 7/8 inch backset, or if you’re not up for trimming a spindle and potentially enlarging holes, look for a model that matches your door exactly or consider an OEM replacement to avoid fitment headaches.