Midanya Faucet Supply Lines,24" Stainless Steel Braided Water Supply Line, 1/2" FIP x 3/8" COMP Faucet Hose, Faucet Hose Connector x 2 Pcs

Why I reached for these lines

Replacing a faucet is rarely the hard part—the often-overlooked hero is the humble supply line. I picked up the Midanya braided supply lines to refresh a bathroom sink where the old vinyl hoses had hardened and started seeping at the ferrule. I wanted something that would install cleanly, resist kinks, and not leave me worrying about burst risk behind a vanity I rarely open. After a couple of installs with this two-pack, here’s how they performed.

Build quality and materials

The construction is what you’d expect from a modern stainless braided line: a 304 stainless steel outer braid over an EPDM rubber inner tube, capped with nickel‑plated brass nuts. In hand, the braid feels tight and uniform, without loose wires or frayed ends. The ferrules are crimped cleanly and the hex flats on the nuts take a wrench well without rounding.

• The 304 stainless braid should hold up to typical bathroom humidity and the occasional under‑sink splash.
• EPDM is a solid choice for hot and cold duty. I ran one line to a hot feed at standard residential temps and saw no softening or “ballooning.”
• The nickel‑plated brass fittings thread smoothly and didn’t show any plating flake or burrs.

Nothing about these feels cheap, and the pair comes ready for a straightforward two‑line install (hot and cold) without any extra hardware.

Compatibility and sizing

These are 24-inch lines with 1/2" FIP on one end and 3/8" compression on the other. That’s a common configuration for many lavatory faucets, but it’s not universal. Before buying, check both ends of your setup:

• Faucet side: Most widespread and centerset bathroom faucets use a 1/2" male straight thread (often called 1/2" IPS/NPSM). The 1/2" FIP female on these lines threads right onto that. The seal is made by the captive washer inside the hose end, not by sealant.
• Shutoff valve side: You’ll need a standard 3/8" OD compression male coming off your stop valve. Again, this is the most common size for lav stops.

A few quick notes:
- You don’t use thread seal tape on compression connections, and you don’t need it on the faucet side here either—the washer does the sealing.
- These are not for most water heaters. Typical tank water heaters use 3/4" connections. If you have a point‑of‑use heater with 1/2" and 3/8" ends, double‑check threads and manufacturer guidance first.

Installation experience

Installation was uneventful—in the best way. Here’s the sequence I followed:

1. Shut off the hot and cold stop valves and open the faucet to relieve pressure.
2. Remove the old lines and wipe down the faucet and valve threads.
3. Thread the 1/2" FIP end to the faucet by hand until snug, then give it a gentle quarter turn with an adjustable wrench. Don’t over‑torque; you’re compressing a washer.
4. Connect the 3/8" compression end to the stop valve nut by hand, then snug it with a wrench. Again, modest torque—compression fittings don’t need brute force.
5. As you tighten, keep the hose body from twisting; twisting a braided line shortens its life.
6. Open the stop valves slowly and check for drips with a dry tissue. A slight weep often stops with a tiny additional nudge on the wrench.

The 24-inch length was helpful for routing a smooth arc from the faucet tails down to the stops without forcing tight bends. I prefer a line long enough to form a gentle loop rather than stretching a short one into a sharp “S.”

Performance and flow

Midanya lists a maximum flow of 1.1 gpm. In practice, most bathroom faucets already limit flow at the aerator to around 1.0–1.2 gpm, so these lines didn’t slow anything down in that context. With the aerator removed, filling a 1‑gallon container took just under a minute on my setup—right in line with the spec. On a kitchen faucet (which typically aims for 1.5–1.8 gpm), these lines could become the bottleneck; I’d choose a larger‑bore hose for that application.

As for sealing, both lines remained bone‑dry at the connections and along the crimp after multiple pressure cycles and temperature swings. I didn’t detect any metallic taste or rubbery odor on first run, which sometimes happens with new lines; a quick flush is still good practice.

Flex, bend radius, and kinking

Stainless braided lines balance flexibility with structure. These Midanya lines are reasonably pliable, but like all braided hoses, they can kink if you force a tight bend right at the ferrule or try to twist them into alignment. The 24-inch length helps avoid that. My tip:

• Aim for a bend radius no tighter than a few inches.
• If your stops are far off to one side or low in the cabinet, a longer line (30"+) is often easier to route without stress.
• Avoid using the hose as a lever to align threads; hold the nut and swivel the fitting independently.

I didn’t run into kinks in my install, but I deliberately routed in wide arcs and pre‑bent the path before final tightening.

Durability and safety impressions

Long‑term durability takes years to judge, but the build choices here inspire confidence. The braid, ferrules, and nuts are all materials I trust in a damp cabinet, and EPDM has a long track record for potable water lines. A few habits that extend service life:

• Replace lines when you replace a faucet; treat them as a service item.
• Don’t overtighten. Crushed washers and deformed compression fittings are a common source of slow leaks.
• Periodically glance under the sink. Even good lines can be defeated by a failing shutoff valve upstream.

If you live with unusually high water pressure, add a pressure regulator at the main. Any supply line is happier below 80 psi.

Where these lines make sense

• Bathroom faucets with 1/2" male faucet threads and 3/8" compression stop valves
• Tight cabinets where a 24" arc can be formed without sharp bends
• Quick weekend refreshes where you want stainless braided security without specialty tools

Where I’d choose something else:
- Kitchen faucets targeting higher flow rates
- Installations requiring 1/2" to 1/2", 3/8" to 3/8", or non‑standard threads
- Most water heater hookups (use proper 3/4" rated connectors)

Pros and cons

Pros
- Solid materials: 304 stainless braid, EPDM tube, nickel‑plated brass nuts
- Clean, leak‑free sealing with standard hand‑plus‑wrench torque
- 24" length is forgiving and easy to route
- Two‑pack matches hot/cold replacement in one buy
- No soldering, crimping, or sealant needed

Cons
- Inner diameter and 1.1 gpm spec can be limiting for high‑flow fixtures
- Like any braided line, it can kink if forced into tight bends
- Not a universal fit—confirm 1/2" FIP x 3/8" compression before you start

Practical tips for a trouble‑free install

• Dry‑fit both ends before tightening to visualize the hose path.
• Start every connection by hand to avoid cross‑threading.
• Support the hose at the ferrule during tightening so you’re not twisting the braid.
• After the first day, recheck for any weeping at the connections; a tiny snug often resolves it.

Recommendation

I recommend the Midanya braided supply lines for bathroom faucet replacements where the 1/2" FIP x 3/8" compression configuration matches your hardware. They’re well‑built, easy to install without special tools, and the 24-inch length makes routing painless in most vanities. Just be mindful of the stated 1.1 gpm flow and avoid sharp bends to prevent kinks. For kitchen faucets or any application demanding higher flow or different threads, pick a larger‑bore or differently sized hose. Used where they fit, these deliver exactly what I want from a supply line: quiet reliability I can stop thinking about.