DeWalt 9/32" Pilot Point drill bit - Bulk

Why I Reach for This Bit

I reach for a 9/32-inch bit more often than you might think—most commonly for clean clearance holes for 1/4-inch fasteners, brackets, and hardware. After several weeks using DeWalt’s pilot-point 9/32-inch bit in the shop and on-site, I’ve formed a clear picture of where it shines and where I’d pick something else. It’s a straightforward, jobber-length bit with a few thoughtful touches that add up to reliable, repeatable results.

Design and Build

This is a jobber-length bit with an overall length around 4-1/4 inches and a working length just under 3 inches, so it fits comfortably in compact drills while still reaching through framing and fixtures. The gold-oxide finish helps with lubrication and rust resistance, and the size marking sits above the shank, which means it’s still legible after the area around the chuck gets scuffed up.

The defining feature is the pilot-point tip. Unlike a standard 118-degree twist bit that benefits from a punch mark or pilot hole to keep it from wandering, the 135-degree pilot tip starts on contact and tends to pull itself into the work cleanly. DeWalt’s “no-spin” shank did its job in my keyed and keyless chucks; I didn’t experience any slippage under reasonable load. A tapered web (the thicker core of the bit) contributes to stiffness and has a noticeable impact on durability when you’re pushing through denser material.

Setup and Test Materials

I tested the bit in a compact 12V drill/driver, a 20V hammer drill (hammer mode off), and a bench-top drill press. Materials included:

• SPF framing lumber, plywood, and oak
• 1/8-inch and 3/16-inch mild steel plate, 20-gauge sheet steel, and 6061 aluminum
• ABS and acrylic sheet

Lubrication was Boelube on aluminum and light cutting oil on steel. I kept speeds conservative in hand drills and more dialed-in on the press.

Performance in Wood

In wood, this bit behaves exactly how a pilot-point should: accurate starts with minimal pressure and no skate even on a smooth finish. On face-grain oak, I was able to place holes right to a pencil line without a punch, and in plywood it resisted following the grain at the exit. Tear-out was low compared with my standard 118-degree general-purpose bits. If you care about the back face on cabinetry or painted work, a sacrificial backer still yields the cleanest result, but on site I could get acceptable exits without one. Chips cleared well through the flutes; only when boring deep in resinous pine did I need to peck to avoid packing.

Performance in Metals

The pilot point behaves differently in metal than a split-point bit, but not in a bad way. On the drill press at around 900–1,100 RPM for mild steel, the bit tracked predictably, and with a light center punch I could land within a fraction of a millimeter of my layout. On 1/8-inch and 3/16-inch steel plate, the pilot basically functions like a built-in starter—no walking, a controlled initial bite, and smooth chip formation with oil. The hole finishes were clean with manageable burrs that a single pass of a deburring tool or file removed.

The caveat is thin sheet metal. In 20-gauge steel with a hand drill, the aggressive pilot has a tendency to grab as it breaks through, which can slightly distort the hole or leave a more pronounced burr. A backing block helps; otherwise, for lots of thin sheet I’d grab a split-point or a step bit instead.

In aluminum, at 1,200–1,500 RPM with wax, the bit cut quickly and left a nice finish. No noticeable clogging in the flutes, and hole sizing stayed consistent.

Performance in Plastics

In ABS and acrylic, the pilot point’s controlled entry is an advantage. I used lower speeds (500–800 RPM) to avoid melting and kept pressure light. The pilot established position without skating, and the main lips followed without chattering. With acrylic, a piece of masking tape on the exit side and a slow feed kept chip-out minimal. Again, the bit clears chips well for this diameter.

Accuracy, Finish, and Sizing

Using digital calipers, wood and plastic holes typically measured between 0.282 and 0.284 inches; in steel I saw 0.283 to 0.286 inches depending on setup and feed. That’s right in line with what I expect from a sharp jobber bit run in handheld tools versus a press. Importantly, hole roundness and surface finish were consistent. The pilot profile seems to help the lips track true, which shows up in fewer “tri-lobed” holes that cheaper bits sometimes leave in tougher materials.

Durability and Sharpening

The tapered web gives this bit a more robust feel than bargain-bin equivalents. After dozens of holes across materials, the edge remained serviceable, and the gold-oxide finish still looked intact apart from the very tip. I didn’t experience any chipping on the cutting lips or fluke cracking—often a risk when you bind a bit near breakthrough in steel.

Pilot-point bits are trickier to touch up perfectly compared with straight 118/135-degree split points. If you sharpen your own bits, you can bring back cutting performance with care, but you may lose the distinct pilot geometry unless you have the right jig. For many users, that’s a non-issue; 9/32 is a common shop size, and buying replacements or keeping a few in a bulk sleeve is practical. The size marking above the shank stayed legible after repeated chucking, which is a small quality-of-life win in a drawer full of near-quarter-inch bits.

User Experience

• Starts on target: The pilot tip genuinely eliminates the need for a starter hole in wood and reduces walking in metal, especially on the drill press.
• Secure chucking: The shank didn’t slip in my keyless chucks, even under moderate torque.
• Clean chips: Flute geometry clears chips effectively for this diameter; pecking helps in gummy woods and plastics.
• Good control: In handheld use, I could feather the feed to avoid breakout. The bit communicates load well; you can feel when you’re pushing too hard.

Where It Falls Short

• Thin sheet metal: The pilot can grab on breakthrough in very thin stock. A step bit or split point is safer and cleaner for HVAC and bodywork thicknesses.
• Hard alloys: This is a standard steel, gold-oxide jobber bit. For stainless or hardened steels, a cobalt or carbide option will last longer and cut cleaner.
• Resharpening: Maintaining the pilot geometry at home is finicky. If you rely on resharpening, consider whether you’re okay reverting it to a conventional point.

Tips for Best Results

• Use a light center punch on metal for repeatable placement, even though the pilot can start without one.
• Mind speeds: 1,800–2,500 RPM in wood; 1,200–1,500 RPM in aluminum; 800–1,100 RPM in mild steel; 500–800 RPM in plastics, adjusting for your tool and feel.
• Lubricate metals to extend edge life and improve finish; wax or Boelube for aluminum, light cutting oil for steel.
• Back up thin stock to reduce grabbing and burrs.
• Let the pilot work—start with light pressure, then increase feed once the main lips engage.

The Bottom Line

This DeWalt pilot-point bit earns a spot in my everyday kit by doing the basics well and adding reliable, on-contact starts. In wood and plastics, it’s fast, accurate, and leaves clean holes with minimal fuss. In plate metals, it tracks true and produces consistent results, provided you use reasonable speeds and lubrication. The no-spin shank and tapered web elevate it above generic bits in terms of feel and durability, and the size markings that survive repeated chucking are surprisingly handy.

I recommend this bit if you routinely drill 9/32-inch holes in wood, aluminum, and mild steel and want predictable starts without extra steps. If your work leans heavily on thin sheet metal or harder alloys, keep a split-point or step bit (and a cobalt option) nearby for those cases. For general shop and jobsite tasks, though, this 9/32-inch pilot-point strikes a sensible balance of accuracy, durability, and everyday convenience.