DeWalt 1/2 in Titanium Nitride Coating Pilot Point Bit

Why I reached for this bit

I first put this DeWalt 1/2-inch pilot point bit to work on a small metal-fab project: a bracket in 1/8-inch mild steel that needed a clean 1/2-inch through-hole precisely on a layout mark. I wanted something that would grab on contact, stay put without a center punch, and finish the hole with a clean rim. That’s exactly the scenario where a pilot point shines, and this bit didn’t disappoint.

Since then, I’ve used it across hardwoods, softwoods, and common metals. It’s not a do-everything solution, but within its lane, it’s a very reliable cutter with a few thoughtful design choices that speed up the job.

Design and build

• Diameter: 1/2 inch
• Overall length: 6 inches
• Tip: Pilot point
• Coating: Titanium nitride (TiN)
• Construction: Single piece

The headline features are the pilot-point tip and the TiN coating. The pilot point acts like a small starter bit integrated into the main cutter, so the bit starts where you place it. That means far less “walking,” even on flat steel and slick hardwood face grain. The cutting lips begin removing material immediately after the pilot engages, so you get the benefits of a pilot hole without a bit change.

The titanium nitride coating is a hard, wear-resistant surface treatment. In practice, it reduces friction and helps keep edges alive longer, provided you don’t overheat the bit. It’s still a high-speed steel bit underneath, not cobalt, so technique matters—especially in thicker or tougher metals.

At 6 inches overall, the reach is adequate for most framing, plate, and general shop work. It’s not a long-length bit, so if you need extra reach into assemblies or deep bores, you’ll want a jobber or aircraft-length alternative.

Performance in wood

In hardwoods (white oak, maple) and softwoods (spruce studs, plywood), the pilot point locks in and the bit tracks straight. The entry hole is crisp, and the rim is cleaner than a standard chisel-point twist bit. In plywood, tear-out on the exit side is typical for a 1/2-inch bit; backing the cut with a sacrificial board eliminates that and leaves a sharp edge.

Feed rate tolerance is good. You can lean on it with a 1/2-inch drill and it will clear chips predictably. Keep your speed sensible: a mid-range RPM with steady feed works well. For handheld drilling through hardwood, I like to start around 800–1,000 RPM, then adjust by feel. Back the bit out briefly near full depth to clear packed chips and keep the flute cutting instead of burnishing.

The pilot point also helps when drilling on angled surfaces or curved stock where a standard bit might skate. If you do a lot of hardware installs in finished wood, it’s a time saver.

Performance in metal

In mild steel and aluminum, the pilot point does exactly what you’d hope: it anchors the bit and helps the cutting edges engage cleanly without a separate pilot hole. In 1/8-inch steel plate, I ran around 300–500 RPM with cutting fluid and got a clean, round hole with minimal burr. In aluminum, bumping the speed slightly and paying attention to chip evacuation kept things smooth.

For stainless, the bit will do the job in thin section if you throttle back (think 200–300 RPM for 1/2 inch), use proper lubrication, and maintain a firm, steady feed. But if you’re regularly drilling tougher stainless grades or thicker stock, a cobalt bit is a better long-term choice. TiN-coated HSS can cut stainless, but it’s not built for daily abuse in that material.

Chip control matters here. A 1/2-inch bit generates a lot of heat if starved of coolant or run too fast. Peck the cut, clear chips, and don’t let it polish the hole. That’s how you preserve the edge and the coating.

What it’s not for

• Masonry or concrete. This is a metal/wood bit. For masonry, use a carbide-tipped percussion bit with a hammer drill.
• Impact drivers. A drill bit belongs in a drill, ideally with a 1/2-inch chuck for this diameter. Impacts can shock the cutting edges and snap tips.
• Enlarging existing holes. The pilot point can’t properly center in a pre-drilled hole unless that hole matches the pilot exactly. If you try to “open up” a hole, the bit will hunt and chatter, producing an ugly, out-of-round result.
• Countersinking. The tip geometry isn’t meant to create a chamfer. Use a dedicated countersink or a step bit for that.

For enlarging holes in metal, reach for a step bit or a reamer. In wood, a proper countersink or a tapered bit is the right tool.

Durability and sharpening

TiN helps with wear resistance, especially if you keep heat under control. In my use, edge life in mild steel and hardwood has been solid. Crucially, the pilot point geometry is not sharpening-friendly in the average shop. Touching it up by hand is difficult, and machine sharpening risks removing the coating at the business end. I treat this style of bit as semi-consumable: with good technique, you get plenty of life; once it dulls, replacement is usually more practical than a perfect resharpen.

One practical note: the coating is a surface treatment. Overheating or grinding the tip removes the benefit where you need it most. If you like to resharpen regularly, a standard split-point or cobalt bit may make more sense.

Fit and setup

A 1/2-inch bit demands a drill with enough torque and the right chuck capacity. I used it in a corded 1/2-inch drill and on a drill press. If your drill has a 3/8-inch chuck, check whether your specific bit has a reduced shank; otherwise, it won’t fit. Clamp your work, especially in metal. A bit that bites hard can spin the workpiece with surprising force.

Tips for best results

• Mark and dimple: The pilot point catches well, but a light center punch in metal still improves accuracy on critical layouts.
• Right speed, steady feed: Keep RPM low for metal (300–500 RPM in mild steel for 1/2 inch), moderate for hardwood, and increase only as chips clear cleanly.
• Use cutting fluid: Essential in steel; it lowers friction and preserves the edge.
• Back up your exit: A scrap board behind wood stops blowout and leaves a clean rim.
• Peck and clear: Especially in deeper cuts, periodically withdraw to clear chips and reduce heat.
• Don’t force it: Let the cutting lips do the work. Excessive pressure only builds heat and dulls the edge.

Who will like it

• General contractors and remodelers who want quick, accurate starts in wood and common metals without swapping bits for a pilot hole.
• Fabricators working mostly in mild steel and aluminum who appreciate a clean, centered hole on layout without a punch-and-pilot routine.
• Woodworkers installing hardware where clean entry holes and precise placement matter.

If your daily grind is stainless, spring steel, or repetitive production drilling, this isn’t the ideal workhorse. A cobalt bit or a job-specific carbide solution would be smarter.

Where it excels—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Starts on location with minimal walking
- Clean, round holes in wood and common metals
- Good wear resistance if kept cool and lubricated
- Time saver when you want a pilot and finished hole in one pass

Trade-offs:
- Not suitable for enlarging existing holes or countersinking
- Not intended for masonry or impact drivers
- Tip geometry is difficult to resharpen; treat it as a consumable
- Standard length; not for deep-reach jobs

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 1/2-inch pilot point bit for anyone who needs precise, on-contact starts and clean holes in wood, aluminum, and mild steel, without the extra step of drilling a pilot hole. The pilot point works as advertised, the TiN coating holds up if you respect speed and heat, and the 6-inch length covers everyday tasks. It isn’t a one-tool solution: it won’t enlarge holes, it’s not a countersink, and it’s the wrong choice for masonry or impact driving. But used for its intended purpose—with a proper drill, appropriate speed, and lubrication—it’s a reliable, time-saving bit that earns a spot in the drill index.