DeWalt 5/16\" Pilot Point drill bit

Why I reached for this bit in the first place

I’ve got a short list of “reach-for” sizes, and 5/16 inch is on it—lag screws, clearance holes, hardware installs, and plenty of mild steel and aluminum tasks. Over the past several weeks, I’ve been using the DeWalt 5/16-in pilot-point bit as my go-to in both a corded drill and a drill press. It’s a straightforward high-speed steel bit with a pilot-point tip and a no-spin shank, but a couple of small design choices make it more dependable than a generic jobber bit in everyday work.

Build and design

This is a standard jobber-length bit with an overall length of 4-1/2 inches and a working length just over 3 inches. That reach is useful: it comfortably gets through 2-by material with a backer, and it’s long enough for most hardware and bracket drilling without feeling whippy. The pilot-point geometry stands out right away. It’s not a brad point; it’s a steel-friendly tip with a small pilot that starts on target and reduces the “grabbing” you get when the cutting lips break through.

The shank is the other thoughtful feature. DeWalt’s no-spin shank is a simple anti-slip design that grips well in both keyed and keyless chucks. On high-torque starts—especially in metal—this keeps the bit from polishing the shank and spinning in place. Size markings are printed above the shank area, so they don’t rub off after a few tightenings. It sounds minor, but in a drawer full of blackened mystery bits, still being able to read “5/16” matters.

Performance in wood

In construction lumber and hardwood, the pilot point starts exactly where I place it. No wandering across knots, no skating on a finished surface. Entry holes are clean, and with a backer board, exits stay controlled with less blowout than a typical 118-degree jobber point. The chip flow is what you’d expect from a general-purpose HSS bit: good in softwood, fine in hardwood as long as you clear chips periodically on deep holes. I didn’t feel like I needed excessive feed pressure to keep it cutting, and the bit stayed cooler than many budget bits thanks to that steady cut and reduced binding at breakthrough.

If you only drill wood, a dedicated brad-point bit will give you cleaner shoulders and a flat-bottomed look at shallow depths. But for mixed-material work where you don’t want to swap sets, this pilot-point geometry is a better all-arounder.

Performance in metal

The pilot point earns its keep in metal. On mild steel plate and angle, it starts without a center punch in a lot of cases, which is convenient on long runs of holes. I still recommend a punch for critical accuracy or on curved surfaces, but I didn’t fight the bit wandering across layout lines like I do with a blunt jobber tip. More importantly, breakthrough on the far side is controlled. The bit doesn’t grab and yank as it exits, so there’s less risk of the workpiece riding up the bit or the drill twisting your wrist.

Surface finish inside the hole is what I expect from a sharp HSS bit: smooth enough for bolts and rivets, with a small burr on exit that’s easily knocked off. In aluminum, I ran higher RPMs with a touch of lubricant and got bright chips and a quick cut. For mild steel, slower speeds and cutting oil helped keep the bit sharp and cool. If your work leans into hardened steel or lots of stainless, you’ll want a cobalt bit; this one will do it in a pinch with proper technique, but HSS isn’t the right tool for repeated loads in those materials.

Plastics and composites

In acrylic and PVC, the pilot point helps prevent the bit from “walking” and reduces the tendency to grab at breakthrough. I had good results using light pressure and higher RPMs, clearing chips often to avoid heat buildup. If you drill a lot of brittle plastics, a dedicated plastic bit or a modified rake angle is ideal, but this bit is workable with care.

Accuracy and hole quality

For a general-purpose bit, the holes are on target and on size with standard jobber tolerances. The pilot point sets the center accurately, and the bit tracks well without tapering or oversizing the hole—assuming you let it do the cutting and don’t force the feed. In wood face frames and metal brackets, fasteners fit as expected without needing to “wallow” the hole.

Durability

The tapered web design is meant to resist breakage and flex. At 5/16-in diameter, outright snapping isn’t a frequent risk, but the thicker core is noticeable when pushing through knotty lumber or stalled starts in steel. Over multiple days of mixed-material drilling, the edges held up well. Like any HSS bit, running it too fast and dry in steel will heat it up and dull it. Used with appropriate speeds and a dab of cutting fluid, edge life has been solid.

One thing to note: sharpening a pilot-point bit at home is trickier than touching up a standard chisel-tip jobber point. If you rely on bench grinder touch-ups frequently, you’ll either want a proper jig or plan on sending it out for sharpening once the pilot geometry wears. That said, with sane use, you’ll get plenty of life before that’s necessary.

Handling and the no-spin shank

I tested it in a keyless 1/2-in cordless drill, a keyed corded drill, and a drill press. In all cases, the shank gripped steadily and never slipped under load. That matters on larger holes in metal where a little slippage can turn into a polished, hard-to-grab shank. The bit balances well and runs true—no noticeable runout beyond what my chucks introduce.

Practical tips for best results

• Mark with a center punch on metal for precision, even though the pilot point often makes it optional.
• Use a backer board in wood to get the cleanest exit.
• Slow your RPMs and add cutting fluid in steel; clear chips often.
• In deep holes, peck drill to keep heat down and chips moving.
• Let the bit cut. Excessive feed pressure increases heat and dulling without speeding you up.

Limitations

A few constraints are worth calling out:

• It’s a round shank, not a hex, so it’s not intended for impact drivers.
• HSS is versatile but not the best option for hardened steels or heavy stainless workloads; cobalt or carbide is a better choice there.
• Pilot-point sharpening is not as DIY-friendly as a standard tip.
• Chip evacuation is typical of jobber flutes; it’s not a parabolic flute, so deep holes in gummy materials still require patience.

None of these are dealbreakers for general shop or jobsite use, but they’re worth knowing if you have specialized needs.

Value and warranty

As a single, commonly used size, this bit earns its spot in the drawer. It’s not a boutique, high-alloy cutter—just a well-executed HSS bit with smart features. The 30-day money-back guarantee is a modest safety net if you get a dud, and for a bit you’ll reach for frequently, that’s acceptable coverage.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros who move between wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics.
• Users who drill freehand and value clean starts without center punching every hole.
• Anyone tired of bits slipping in the chuck under load.

If your day is stainless tubing or abrasive composites, look elsewhere. If you need one dependable 5/16-in bit that won’t fuss about what you’re drilling, this one fits.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 5/16-in pilot-point bit for general-purpose drilling across wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics. The pilot point makes starts accurate and breakthroughs controlled, the no-spin shank keeps it planted in the chuck, and the tapered web adds confidence when you lean on it. It’s not the last word in exotic materials or precision woodworking, but as an everyday workhorse, it’s reliable, predictable, and easy to live with. Use reasonable speeds, add a touch of lubricant in metal, and it will earn its keep.