DeWalt Demolition bimetal reciprocating saw blade

First impressions and setup

I reached for this 6-inch DeWalt demolition blade on a porch tear-out where I needed fast, straight cuts through framing, decking, and a mix of old, pitchy lumber. I tend to keep a handful of 6 TPI, 6-inch blades in the kit because they’re the sweet spot for framing: short enough to control, long enough to clear a 2x without the tip whipping around. This blade fit right into that rhythm. It’s noticeably tall and a touch thicker than many general-purpose bi-metal blades, which immediately inspires confidence when you’re battling nail-scarred studs and dense knots.

The packaging calls out a patented toothform and precision-set teeth. Marketing aside, a few minutes into the first cut it was clear the tooth geometry is focused on chip evacuation and bite. On a corded recip saw with a 1-1/8-inch stroke and a firm shoe, the blade dug in without chattering and cleared sawdust efficiently. That combination—stouter body plus open gullet pattern—set the tone for the rest of the day.

Build and design

• Bi-metal construction: The blade has the familiar resilience you expect from a bi-metal, flexing without snapping if you torque it awkwardly in a tight space. The cutting edge holds up well in wood for a demolition blade.
• Tall, thicker profile: The extra height reduces deflection and wander. It’s not just about durability; the stiffness helps the blade track straighter on long rips through decking or when you’re plunge-cutting into sheathing.
• 6-inch length, 6 TPI: This is an aggressive tooth count that favors speed in wood over finish quality. On a recip saw, that’s usually the right call for demo work. The 6-inch length also keeps you honest: it’s easier to keep the shoe planted and avoid “diving” too deep behind the cut.

The net effect is control. A reciprocating saw is already a violent tool; anything that steadies the cut pays dividends in accuracy and fatigue.

Cutting performance in wood

In framing lumber (SPF 2x and old Douglas fir studs), the blade cut fast with minimal bounce. The toothform cleared chips cleanly, which matters in wet or resinous material. Pushing through pressure-treated deck boards, I didn’t see the clogging or smearing you sometimes get with narrower, finer-tooth blades. The precision-set teeth leave a cut that’s surprisingly tidy for 6 TPI—think “square and serviceable,” not finish-saw smooth.

On plunge cuts into 5/8-inch OSB and plywood, the stiff spine kept the nose from skating. I prefer starting at lower speed, rocking the saw to ease the teeth in; the blade responded predictably and didn’t grab. For long rip cuts along a chalk line on exterior sheathing, the straight tracking really is the standout. You still need to keep the shoe pinned and your stroke steady, but the blade helps prevent the mid-cut “S-curve” that thinner blades tend to produce.

One note on nails and screws: this blade is not rated for metal. That’s important. In demolition, incidental fastener contact is hard to avoid, but treat it as something to minimize. The couple of times I grazed a nail, the blade kept going but the edge clearly dulled faster. If your job is heavy on nail-embedded wood, reach for a carbide-toothed “nail-embedded wood” blade instead. For clean wood demo and remodeling cuts, this blade excels.

Fiber cement use

It’s listed for fiber cement, and it will cut it. I used it to shorten a couple of planks and to open a window rough opening in a backerboard patch. Expect more wear than you’d get on wood; fiber cement is abrasively unforgiving. If fiber cement is more than a few cuts on your list, a fiber cement–specific or carbide-grit solution will outlast bi-metal by a wide margin. Either way, use dust control and proper respiratory protection—silica dust is no joke.

Control, vibration, and heat

With the saw’s shoe locked against the work, vibration was modest for this class of blade. The tall body helps here; it’s less prone to flexing around knots and keeps the teeth engaged on a consistent arc. On prolonged cuts, the blade ran warm but didn’t blue. Resin build-up was minimal, though I wiped it down after cutting pressure-treated boards. If you’re noticing excessive heat, ease the feed pressure and let the teeth do the work—especially with 6 TPI, you can outrun the chip clearance if you force it.

Durability and longevity

In wood-only demo, the edge held up predictably well. Across a day of mixed cuts—decking tear-out, trimming studs, and cutting out a couple of doubled-up headers—I didn’t need to swap the blade until late afternoon. That’s in line with what I expect from a premium bi-metal demolition blade with a thicker body. Any incidental fastener contact noticeably shortens that window, and fiber cement will accelerate wear further.

One practical observation: the thicker blade resists kinking when you clip a corner or bind in a kerf, which saves blades over the course of a job. Thin blades may cut a hair faster in soft wood, but I’ll happily trade a percent or two of speed for the extra stiffness and life.

Practical sizing and usage tips

• Choose the shortest blade that will reach your cut. A 6-inch blade gives you about 4-1/2 inches of effective cutting depth on a typical recip saw; that’s perfect for most framing tasks. Shorter blades wander less and are easier to control.
• Keep the shoe planted. This blade rewards a firm shoe; it stabilizes the stroke and helps the toothform clear chips.
• Use variable speed for plunge starts. Start slow to prevent grabbing, then ramp up once the kerf is established.
• Respect its limits. Avoid fasteners when you can. If you know you’ll hit nails, swap in a blade designed for that abuse.

What could be better

• Not a mixed-material solution. It’s ideal for wood demolition but not rated for metal, so it’s not a one-blade-for-everything choice.
• Fiber cement is workable but not its strong suit. It will do the job, but wear will be higher than a dedicated carbide option.
• No warranty. Blades are consumables, and this is common, but it’s worth noting.

None of these are flaws so much as honest boundaries. If you need to cut wood fast and straight in demolition contexts while avoiding metal, this blade is well tuned for that lane.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers and framers tackling selective demo, wall openings, and deck work where control and speed in wood are paramount.
• DIYers doing tear-outs or rough framing alterations who benefit from a forgiving, stiff blade that doesn’t require a pro’s touch to keep straight.
• Crews who prefer stocking bulk packs and standardizing on a dependable 6-inch, 6 TPI wood demo blade for everyday use.

If your work regularly mixes wood with nails and screws, look at a carbide-toothed, nail-embedded wood blade instead. If you spend your afternoon in conduit or pipe, a dedicated metal blade will serve you better.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt demolition blade for anyone who needs a dependable, aggressive cutter for wood-focused demolition and remodeling. It stands out for its straight tracking, chip clearing, and control—benefits you feel immediately on plunge cuts and long rips through framing and sheathing. The tall, thicker body keeps the blade from wandering, and the bi-metal construction balances flexibility with a durable edge for wood. Just go in with the right expectations: it’s not designed for metal contact, and while it can handle fiber cement in a pinch, it’s not the most economical choice for that material. Used within its strengths, it’s a fast, predictable, and jobsite-proof blade that earns a permanent place in the reciprocating saw case.