Bosch 7 pc. Hex Shank Hammer Drill Masonry Bit Set

Why I reached for this set

I keep a few dedicated SDS-plus bits for heavy concrete work, but most of my day-to-day anchoring happens with a standard hammer drill or an impact driver on a ladder, mid-project, where a quick-change hex bit is just simpler. That’s exactly the niche where the Bosch hex‑shank masonry set shines. Over several weeks I used it to mount exterior fixtures on brick, set Tapcon-style screws in poured concrete and CMU block, and drill a few careful holes in a bathroom tile surround. It’s become the set I throw in the pouch when I don’t want to haul a rotary hammer but still need reliable holes in masonry.

Build and design

• Hex shanks: The 1/4-inch hex shanks lock firmly in both a 3‑jaw chuck and quick-change impact chucks. I saw zero shank spin or chuck marring, which is a common failure point with round-shank masonry bits in high-torque tools.
• Carbide tips: The asymmetric, diamond‑ground carbide tips have a precise, sharp leading edge and a slightly off-center grind that helps the bit bite without skittering. Out of the box, the tips are noticeably crisp.
• Sizes and lengths: The set covers the key small-to-medium diameters—1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 1/4, and 3/8 in—with a mix of 4- and 6‑inch overall lengths. That spread handled everything from pilot holes for plastic anchors to Tapcon pilots and clearance holes.
• Flutes: Traditional two‑flute geometry evacuates dust fine for shallow and mid-depth holes. In deeper holes, you’ll still want to peck and clear.

The bits live in a compact indexed case that keeps sizes visible and prevents the tips from knocking into each other. It’s not fancy, but it’s sturdy enough to toss in a tool bag.

Test setup

I ran the bits in:
- An 18V hammer drill (two-speed, mechanical hammer mode)
- A 20V impact driver (impact-only; no rotary hammer action)

Materials drilled:
- Poured concrete slab (~3500 PSI, cured)
- Split‑face CMU block
- Clinker brick on a 1950s façade
- Glazed ceramic wall tile over cement backer

I drilled repeated sets of 1/8 to 1/4-inch holes to typical anchor depths (1 to 1‑3/4 inches), plus several 3/8-inch clearance holes in brick and block.

Performance in concrete and block

In concrete with the hammer drill in hammer mode, the 3/16-inch bit averaged roughly 20–30 seconds for a 1‑1/4-inch-deep pilot hole, which is respectable for a hex‑shank masonry bit. The 1/4-inch bit slowed somewhat in cured slab (as expected), but stayed predictable. In CMU, everything cut noticeably faster; the 3/16 bit cruised through the web in under 10 seconds, and the 3/8 bit handled clearance holes cleanly without chattering.

The asymmetric tip does what Bosch intends: it starts clean. I rarely needed a starter punch, even on slightly uneven brick faces. The bits track straight, and holes measured to size within a few thousandths—snug enough for the typical expansion anchors and concrete screws I use.

Dust ejection is decent for the lengths provided. For deeper holes, backing out mid-drill to clear dust kept temperatures down and speed up, which is standard practice but worth repeating.

Using an impact driver

These bits are impact‑rated, and that matters in the real world. I often have an impact driver in-hand for driving concrete screws and don’t want to swap tools. In block and brick, the impact driver with the 5/32 and 3/16 bits worked fine—slower than a true hammer drill but absolutely serviceable for a handful of holes.

In poured concrete, the impact driver got the job done on 5/32 and 3/16 pilots if I let the bit do the work and kept steady pressure. Expect roughly 1.5–2× the time versus a hammer drill, and more heat. If you’re drilling more than a few holes in hard slab, switch to a hammer drill; you’ll save time and your bits.

Tile and delicate surfaces

On glazed ceramic tile (wall, not porcelain), the 1/8 and 3/16 bits handled careful starts at low speed with painter’s tape for anti-walk. No hammer action, minimal pressure, and a light mist of water to cool kept the glaze from chipping. I wouldn’t reach for this set on porcelain tile; a spear-point glass/tile bit or diamond core is the better choice there. But for standard ceramic over backer, these bits can do the job if you use the right technique.

Durability and tip wear

Bosch claims longer life compared with standard masonry bits, and in practice the tips held their edge well. After dozens of holes across the materials above, the small bits showed light honing at the leading edge but still cut quickly, and the larger bits didn’t mushroom or chip at the carbide. The hex shanks remained crisp—no rounding or polishing that would cause slippage in a 3‑jaw chuck.

A note from the field: like every carbide masonry bit, if you strike rebar or embedded steel, stop. I clipped metal once in a slab; backing out and relocating spared the bit. Powering through steel will glaze or chip the cutting edge. If rebar is a possibility, a scanner (or a plan to relocate) is your friend.

Accuracy and hole quality

For concrete screws, hole diameter and straightness matter. I mic’d a series of pilot holes, and the 5/32 and 3/16 bits consistently produced holes that gave Tapcon-style fasteners the right bite without over-tightening. Brick produced slightly ragged edges with the larger diameters—normal for that material—but the holes remained on location and square when I held the drill steady. Blow-out at exits in hollow block is mild with the smaller sizes; for through‑holes, easing off pressure as you break through helps.

Speed and technique tips

• Let the hammer mechanism work. With a drill, keep RPM moderate (not max) and firm, steady pressure.
• Peck to clear dust on deeper holes; don’t just push through.
• For impact drivers, smaller diameters are fine in brick/block; use a hammer drill for larger holes or hard slab.
• Mark with a center punch on slick brick or tile glaze, and start at low speed to avoid skating.
• Keep bits cool; heat kills carbide edges fast.

What could be better

• Size gaps: The set skips 5/16 inch, a common requirement for some anchors. I’d happily trade the redundant size I use least for that addition.
• Depth options: With only 4- and 6-inch lengths in the assortment, you’re covered for most anchor depths, but not for deeper stand-offs or pass‑throughs. An 8‑inch option would be welcome.
• Not a rotary hammer replacement: Obvious, but worth stating—if you routinely drill deep holes in hard concrete, SDS‑plus still wins for speed and longevity.

None of these are deal-breakers for what this set is meant to be: a compact, quick‑change masonry kit that tackles small and mid-size jobs well.

Value

Buying masonry bits piecemeal gets expensive. As a set, this hits the core sizes most of us burn through, and the impact‑rated hex shanks add versatility that you won’t get from budget round‑shank bits. Given the performance and the included range, it’s good value if you need more than one size.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros who frequently install anchors in brick, block, or concrete with a standard hammer drill or impact driver
• Service techs and installers who want a compact set in a pouch or glovebox for quick, on‑site holes
• Anyone tired of round‑shank bits slipping in the chuck under load

Who should look elsewhere:
- Heavy concrete crews living on SDS‑plus
- Tile specialists working primarily on porcelain or glass
- Users who need long-reach bits or a broader, exact size assortment for specialty anchors

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch hex‑shank masonry set. It’s a practical, well‑made assortment that starts clean, drills accurately, and stands up to real‑world use in brick, block, and typical concrete—especially when you want the flexibility to swap between a hammer drill and an impact driver. The hex shanks solve the chuck‑slip problem, the carbide tips hold their edge longer than budget bits, and the included sizes cover most anchor work. It’s not a substitute for an SDS‑plus kit on heavy jobs, and I wish it included a 5/16‑inch option and a longer bit. But as a go‑to, quick‑change masonry set for everyday tasks, it earns a spot in my bag.