DeWalt 6 in. 6 TPI Straight Back Bi-Metal Reciprocating Saw Blade (5 Pk)

Overview

I reach for a 6-inch, 6 TPI wood blade when I need fast, confident cuts through framing, sheathing, or limbs, and this DeWalt wood-cutting recip blade delivers that speed. It’s a straightforward, straight‑back design with a few smart tweaks that make it punch above its weight: an aggressive 6° hook angle, a raker tooth geometry for chip clearance, a reinforced tooth profile for incidental nail contact, and an anti-stick coating that keeps pitch and friction in check. It ships in a 5‑pack, which matches how I typically burn through blades on demo days—enough to keep momentum without babying a single blade.

This is a demolition-leaning wood blade, not a finish blade, and its 6 TPI count tells the story: fast and rough. Within that remit, it’s effective and predictable.

Design and Features

• Length and profile: At 6 inches long and 3/4 inch wide, the blade balances reach and stability. The straight‑back profile keeps it rigid in the cut and less whippy than slimmer, tapered blades.
• Tooth geometry: The 6° hook angle gives the teeth a positive rake that “bites” into wood readily. Paired with the raker tooth geometry, it clears chips efficiently, especially in softwood framing.
• Material and construction: Bi‑metal construction adds flexibility and fatigue resistance to the spine while maintaining a durable cutting edge. It’s not a carbide‑tooth demo blade, so expectations for lifespan should be set accordingly.
• Coating: The anti‑stick coating makes a noticeable difference in resinous lumber and green wood; I saw fewer burn marks and less gum‑up on hot days.
• Pack and origin: Sold in a 5‑pack. Made in the USA with global materials.

Setup and Compatibility

The blades fit standard reciprocating saws with a universal shank. I used them in both a full‑size corded saw and a one‑handed compact 18V model. The 6-inch length is a sweet spot for most framing cuts, flush cuts against studs, and trimming branches up to 3–4 inches in diameter. If you’re frequently plunge cutting or reaching past siding to hit hidden nails, a longer blade can be helpful, but 6 inches keeps the stroke stable and controllable.

Cutting Performance in Wood

In clean 2x SPF and southern yellow pine, the blade is decidedly quick. The hook angle draws the blade in without excessive pressure, and the raker geometry prevents stalling when the kerf fills with chips. On a test cut of a 2x10 joist, I could keep the saw at a moderate speed and let the teeth do the work—little tendency to “skitter” or walk once engaged.

For old, dry studs and deck boards, the cut rate remains solid, but the experience changes slightly: the blade still bites well, but you’ll feel more chatter if you’re not keeping the shoe planted. The straight‑back profile helps maintain a straight line, though this is not a blade to pick for curved cuts.

In green wood and yardwork, it’s in its element. Trimming branches and bucking small limbs, the blade clears wet chips without bogging down. The anti‑stick coating means sap buildup takes longer to become an issue, and it wipes off with a bit of mineral spirits afterward.

Nails, Screws, and “Unknowns” in Demolition

The reinforced tooth profile clearly helps with occasional nail strikes. When I hit roofing nails in sheathing or buried brads in trim, the blade shrugged it off and kept cutting, albeit with a gradually rougher feel as the leading teeth dulled. Light nail contact is fine; repeated contact is where the limitation shows.

Screws are a different story. Any bi‑metal wood blade with 6 TPI will dull quickly on hardened screws and construction screws. You can muscle through a couple, but you’ll notice performance fall off soon after. If you anticipate lots of fasteners—ledger screws, structural screws, or dense nail plates—reach for a carbide‑tooth demolition blade or a dedicated metal blade instead. Think of this DeWalt as “nail tolerant” rather than “nail hungry.”

Durability and Longevity

Bi‑metal blades are a balancing act: you want flexibility to resist snapping, but you still need a hard enough tooth to last. In my use, the longevity was typical for a mid‑TPI demolitions‑leaning wood blade:

• In clean lumber, a single blade handled multiple cuts through 2x, rim joists, and sheathing before I noticed a meaningful slowdown.
• In mixed demo with sporadic nail contact, I cycled blades more frequently—expect roughly a project or two per blade, depending on how fastener‑heavy the material is.
• In tree work, blades held up well, but aggressive binding in twisted branches can fatigue the blade. Keep your cuts supported and avoid prying with the blade to extend life.

I did snap one blade early by forcing a plunge cut at too steep an angle into subflooring. That’s on technique rather than construction: plunge at a shallow angle, let the teeth nibble in, and keep the shoe anchored. The blade stock itself has decent flex and resists kinking if you avoid side‑loading.

Control, Vibration, and Cut Quality

The 3/4‑inch width and straight‑back design provide good beam strength for straight cuts and limit lateral flex. With the saw’s shoe planted, I had predictable tracking through studs and sill plates. Vibration is average for a 6 TPI blade—aggressive teeth mean the saw will chatter a bit in thinner material; variable speed helps. Cut quality is rough, as expected: splinters and tear‑out on the exit. If you need a cleaner finish, step up in TPI or switch to a different blade altogether.

Resin, Pitch, and Heat

The anti‑stick coating is more than a marketing flourish. In resinous lumber and pitchy exterior cuts, I noticed less gum‑up on the sides of the blade and fewer sticky stalls. The coating also seems to reduce the bark‑grabbing feel in green branches. It won’t prevent buildup forever, but it buys you more clean cutting time and makes cleanup easy.

Value

As a 5‑pack, the pricing typically sits in the “working pack” range: not bargain‑basement, not premium carbide money. For general framing, rough carpentry, and yard tasks, the value is solid. If your work routinely encounters dense fasteners or thick embedded metal, a more expensive carbide‑tooth option will outlast this many times over and may be the better buy. For everyday wood cuts and light demo, this pack hits the mark.

Who It’s For

• Framing and remodeling crews who need a fast, reliable wood blade that won’t gum up quickly.
• DIYers tackling deck repairs, wall openings, and general demolition where nails are possible but not constant.
• Homeowners managing tree trimming and storm cleanup with a one‑handed or full‑size recip saw.

Who should look elsewhere: Pros regularly cutting through screws, nail plates, or heavy fastener fields; anyone needing a cleaner finish cut; or users who prefer longer blades for deep plunge cuts into layered assemblies.

Tips for Best Results

• Let the hook angle work: don’t over‑press. Keep the shoe planted and let the teeth pull in.
• Use variable speed in thin stock to reduce chatter; ramp up in thicker or green wood.
• Plunge cut at a shallow angle and avoid prying to prevent snapped blades.
• If you expect lots of fasteners, bring a carbide‑tooth demo blade and swap as needed.
• Wipe the blade after pitchy cuts; the coating cleans up quickly and stays slick.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 6‑inch 6 TPI wood blade for fast, rough cutting in framing lumber, sheathing, and green wood, and for general demolition where you might hit the occasional nail. It’s quick, predictable, and the coating plus tooth geometry keep it cutting efficiently without constant cleaning. As long as you set appropriate expectations—this is a bi‑metal wood blade, not a carbide fastener eater—it offers good value in a 5‑pack and covers a lot of day‑to‑day cutting tasks well. If your work frequently involves screws or heavy metal contact, step up to a carbide‑tooth demo blade; otherwise, this pack belongs in the kit.