DeWalt 1/8" Split Point drill bit

A small bit that punches above its weight

I use 1/8-inch drill bits constantly—for pilot holes, pop rivets, and quick work in sheet good—and I’m picky about how they start and how long they last. After several weeks with this 1/8-inch pilot‑point bit, I’m convinced it’s a smart choice for general shop and site use, especially if you’re drilling by hand and value holes that start exactly where you place them.

Design and build

The geometry is the headline here. The pilot‑point tip is ground to start the cut on contact and keep the bit from skating, and it does exactly that. On wood and thin metal, I could skip a center punch and still land holes where I wanted them. That’s a real time saver if you’re driving screws through brackets or drilling in awkward spots where marking is a pain.

This bit is HSS with a gold ferrous oxide finish. That finish is not a titanium nitride coating—worth calling out because the color can mislead. It offers modest corrosion resistance and helps with chip flow, but you shouldn’t expect the wear life of cobalt or TiN-coated bits in demanding metals. The web is noticeably tapered toward the shank, which stiffens the bit and reduces the tendency to snap under side load—important at 1/8-inch diameter.

The shank is round and marketed as no‑spin. In keyed chucks I had zero slipping. In a worn keyless chuck, I could get it to creep if I stalled in stainless, but at this diameter the torque load is low and slipping wasn’t a practical issue. Size markings are etched above the chucking area, so they don’t get scuffed away—small detail, but handy when your index has a dozen similar gold bits.

At 2.75 inches overall with a flute length of 1.62 inches, it’s standard jobber length. The shorter stature keeps flex under control, which helps accuracy in hand-held drilling and gives you a bit more clearance in tight places.

Performance in wood

In pine, poplar, and hardwoods like oak and maple, the tip behaves like a cross between a split‑point and a brad‑point. The pilot finds purchase immediately, so the bit doesn’t wander on slick finishes or rounded edges. I measured tear‑out on the exit side with and without backing: with backing it was negligible; without backing in plywood, it was mild and better than typical split‑points at this size. Chips evacuated cleanly without burning when I ran a cordless drill in high gear. For hardwood pilot holes, the holes stayed straight with little tendency to follow the grain, likely thanks to the short length and stiff web.

If you routinely predrill for screws, 1/8 inch is a common size for clearance on smaller fasteners and for through-drilling brackets and hardware. The bit produced repeatable diameters in wood, usually around 0.126–0.128 inches, which is what I expect from a consumer-grade HSS bit in a hand drill.

Performance in metal

This is where pilot‑point geometry can be hit-or-miss, but here it mostly works. On 16‑gauge mild steel, I ran about 2,000–2,500 RPM with a light cutting oil and pecked every few seconds. Starts were clean with no walking, even on painted stock after I scuffed the paint with a scratch awl. Burr on the exit was modest and easily knocked down with a deburring tool. In thicker stock (1/8-inch plate), the bit still cut cleanly, though I did need a firmer feed pressure to keep chips consistent.

A few notes:

• Center punching: For thin sheet I didn’t need it. On thicker plate, a light punch still improved accuracy and made the cut feel smoother.
• Stainless: It will cut 304 if you’re careful—slow RPM, high feed, frequent lubrication—but expect short life. This is HSS, not cobalt. After a few holes in stainless, I could hear the edge relaxing.
• Hole size and straightness: In a drill press with proper speeds, holes measured 0.125–0.126 inches in mild steel. In a hand drill, slight wobble widened holes to ~0.128 inches, which is par for the course at this size.

One caveat: pilot‑point tips don’t like to ream or enlarge existing holes; the pilot tries to find a center that isn’t there. For enlarging, switch to a standard split‑point or a step bit.

Performance in plastics

In acrylic and polycarbonate, the bit behaved better than many standard split‑points. The pilot engages gently, which reduces the tendency to skate and craze. I kept the RPM lower (1,200–1,500) with light pressure and cleared chips often to avoid melting. Holes were clean with minimal breakout when I backed the workpiece. In PVC and ABS, it was a non-event: quick, clean holes with no grabbing.

Accuracy, chip control, and user experience

The biggest quality-of-life upgrade is the way the bit starts. On painted metal, galvanized hardware, and glossy laminates, I could one‑hand a drill and still hit my marks without a ski-jump across the surface. For ladder work and overhead tasks, that alone is worth keeping this bit in the front of your pouch.

Chip evacuation is fine for the diameter, but like any 1/8‑inch jobber, the flutes can pack with gummy aluminum. A peck or two keeps things clear. The bit doesn’t sing or chatter when fed correctly; any squeal was my signal to add oil or bump the feed.

I also appreciate the durability relative to its size. The tapered web and short length keep it from snapping when the drill tilts or when the bit breaks through and catches. I intentionally attempted a few poor‑angle starts in pine and light-gauge steel; the bit flexed and recovered without drama.

Edge retention and maintenance

After 60+ holes in pine, a dozen in plywood, and around 30 in mild steel sheet, the edge was still serviceable. Cutting speed slowed a bit, and I could feel more friction by ear, but it wasn’t burning or rubbing. In stainless, as expected, it dulled fast. A quick touch-up with a drill doctor is tricky because pilot‑point geometry isn’t as straightforward as a standard split‑point; most users will treat these as consumables. The good news: at 1/8 inch, that’s reasonable, and the two‑pack format means you’re not stranded mid-project.

Limitations and where it doesn’t shine

• Not a stainless specialist: For frequent stainless or hard alloys, use cobalt (M35/M42) or a high‑quality TiN/TiAlN‑coated bit.
• Not ideal for enlarging holes: The pilot wants solid material, not an existing bore.
• Resharpening is fussy: If you rely on frequent sharpening, a conventional 135° split‑point may suit you better.
• Keyless chuck slip: In a worn keyless chuck, it can creep under a stall. Keep the chuck clean and tightened, or use a keyed chuck for metal.

Practical tips for best results

• Wood: Run fast, clear chips, back the exit side to prevent tear‑out.
• Mild steel: 2,000–3,000 RPM, firm feed, cutting oil, peck to clear chips.
• Aluminum: Higher RPM, light oil or wax, frequent chip clearing to prevent galling.
• Plastics: Moderate RPM, light feed, no aggressive pecking—let chips evacuate to avoid melting.
• Marking: Even though it starts well, a light center mark in thick steel remains good practice.

Value and who it’s for

At this size and spec, this bit slots into the “generalist’s daily driver” category. If you’re a remodeler, facilities tech, DIYer, or fabricator who does a mix of wood, plastics, and mild steel, the starting accuracy and decent durability make it a grab‑and‑go option. If you spend your days on stainless railings or production runs in metal, you’ll want a tougher alloy and a coating geared for heat.

Recommendation

I recommend this 1/8‑inch pilot‑point bit as a dependable, easy‑starting option for everyday drilling in wood, plastics, and mild steel. The geometry saves time by eliminating wandering, the short, stiff body resists snapping, and the etched size marking is a thoughtful touch. It’s not a specialist for stainless or for enlarging holes, and you probably won’t bother resharpening it. But for accurate starts, clean holes, and reliable performance from a hand drill or press, it earns a spot in the front row of the bit index.