DeWalt IMPACT READY Titanium Nitride Coating Drill Bit

A single bit can make or break a job. I spent the past couple of weeks running DeWalt’s impact-ready titanium nitride bit through a mix of shop and site tasks to see where it shines and where it doesn’t. I tested the 13/64-inch size across mild steel, aluminum, hardwood, and plastics, using both a compact drill/driver and an 18V impact driver. The short version: it’s quick and clean in the right materials, but there are limits you’ll want to respect.

Design and build

This bit uses a pilot point tip and a tapered core, with a titanium nitride (TiN) coating over high-speed steel. The pilot point is the headline feature here. It starts holes decisively without skating around on flat stock, and it’s noticeably better than a standard split-point when you’re trying to hit a mark without a center punch. The web taper gives the bit a stouter feel than a straight-web twist bit, and the flutes are cut to clear chips efficiently. DeWalt labels it impact-ready, and it seats securely in an impact driver, which is useful if that’s the driver you already have on your belt.

TiN coatings are all about wear life. They aren’t a magic bullet, but they do help the cutting edges resist abrasion and reduce built-up edge—provided you respect speed and pressure. The coating on my bit held up well through a dozen holes in low-carbon steel, showing an even gold color with only a slight polish near the cutting lips.

Performance in wood and plastic

In pine, poplar, and maple, the pilot point makes easy work of clean entries with minimal tear-out on the exit when backed up. In dense hardwoods, the bit tracks straight and doesn’t wander across grain. Holes are round and undersized just enough for a snug dowel or a tapping screw. The chip evacuation is solid; I rarely had to peck except in deeper holes. In PVC electrical boxes and ABS sheet, it stays cool and doesn’t chew or weld chips if you keep the speed reasonable. Frankly, for wood and plastics this bit is overqualified, which is a nice problem to have.

Performance in metal

• Mild steel (A36 plate, 1/8 inch): With a center punch and a dab of cutting fluid, the bit starts immediately and cuts a clean, round hole. I ran roughly 1,500 RPM on a drill/driver with a steady, moderate feed. Chips came off as tight curls, and the bit never squealed. Deburring was minimal.
• Steel angle and tube: The pilot point is helpful on rounded or painted surfaces. I still recommend a light center punch on curved stock, but even without one, the bit didn’t skate much.
• Aluminum (6061, 1/4 inch): Fast and almost effortless. Clearing chips every few seconds prevents packing in the flutes. Surface finish inside the hole was clean enough to skip a ream for general work.
• Stainless (304 bracket, thin): It gets the job done with patience: slow speed, firm feed, and cutting fluid. Expect more heat, and don’t let it rub—if you do, you’ll glaze the edge and shorten the bit’s life.

Where it falls short is hardened or heat-treated steel. That’s not a knock on this specific bit so much as a reality of TiN-coated HSS. On a heat-treated blade blank and a hardened fastener, the cutting lips lost their bite quickly and the bit wanted to polish rather than cut. That’s the cue to switch to cobalt or carbide; pushing this bit in those materials will dull it or chip the pilot point.

Using it with an impact driver

This bit is designed to work in an impact driver, and I did a portion of the testing that way. For sheet metal and light plate, a low-speed setting on the impact driver with steady pressure produced clean results. The rotational impacts help keep the cut moving when the bit starts to bind. That said, if you have a good drill/driver with a clutch and better speed control, it’s still the more predictable choice for most metal drilling. Impacts can introduce chatter in thinner stock and are less forgiving if you’re off-angle.

In wood and plastic, the impact driver is fine and convenient. In thicker metals or when precision matters, I prefer a drill/driver. The bit doesn’t care which you choose, but your workpiece will.

Tip behavior and durability

Pilot points are a trade-off: you get excellent hole starts and clean entries, but the small nose is also the most vulnerable part of the bit if you bind the tool or introduce side loads. Treat it like a cutting tool, not a pry bar. On one overenthusiastic pass in steel tubing, I caught the lip on the exit and felt the point micro-chip. The bit still cut, but you can avoid that by backing the feed slightly as you break through and supporting the exit with a backing block when possible.

With reasonable technique—center punch, correct speed, cutting fluid in metals, pecking on deep holes—the TiN coating and tapered core give this bit a respectable service life for a general-purpose consumable. Abuse it in hardened steel or dry-drill at too high an RPM and you’ll pay for it quickly.

Best practices that improved results

• Mark and punch your hole. The pilot point grabs well, but a light punch guarantees accuracy on paint or curved surfaces.
• Mind your RPM. For the 13/64-inch size in mild steel, aim roughly 1,400–1,800 RPM; slower for stainless. In wood and plastic, higher speeds are fine, but don’t overheat plastics.
• Use cutting fluid in metals. Even a drop of light oil makes a big difference in heat and edge life.
• Control the exit. Back the workpiece or ease off pressure as the point breaks through to protect the tip.
• Clear chips. Peck drilling prevents packed flutes, especially in aluminum and deeper holes.

Who it’s for

This bit suits anyone who wants a single, impact-friendly bit that can handle everyday drilling in metal, wood, and plastic without babying it—DIYers, maintenance techs, installers, and carpenters who occasionally drill steel. If your work frequently involves stainless or hardened steels, step up to cobalt or carbide. If you only drill wood, you can get by with a more basic brad-point, but you’ll miss the versatility this brings.

Value and alternatives

As a one-off purchase, it’s a solid value if you specifically need the 13/64-inch size and appreciate the impact compatibility. If you’re building out a kit from scratch, a small set of pilot-point TiN bits may be more cost-effective per piece, and a couple of cobalt bits in your most-used sizes will cover the harder materials this bit isn’t meant for.

The bottom line

DeWalt’s impact-ready TiN bit cuts quickly, starts holes cleanly, and holds up well across wood, plastics, aluminum, and mild steel when used with sane technique. The pilot point is a real advantage on accuracy and surface finish. The limitations are predictable: it’s not a solution for hardened or heat-treated metals, and like any pilot-point design, the tip can be vulnerable if you bind the bit or force the breakthrough.

Recommendation: I recommend this bit for general-purpose drilling in mild steel, aluminum, wood, and plastics, especially if you want something that plays nicely with an impact driver. It’s reliable, starts accurately, and the TiN coating helps it maintain an edge under typical shop and jobsite use. If your work regularly involves hardened steels or aggressive production drilling, skip this and buy cobalt or carbide instead.