Skil Corded 7.5 Amp 1/2 In. Hammer Drill

A compact corded hammer drill that punches above its weight—with clear limits

I put the Skil hammer drill to work on a handful of real jobs: setting Tapcons in CMU block, drilling through old brick for a dryer vent reroute, and general drilling in wood and metal around the shop. It’s a straightforward, no-frills corded tool with a 7.5‑amp motor, a 1/2‑inch keyed chuck, and selectable hammer and drill modes. On paper, the 0–3,000 RPM speed and up to 48,000 BPM look impressive. In practice, it delivers solid productivity for light-to-medium masonry and general workshop tasks—as long as you respect its thermal limits and understand it’s not a rotary hammer.

Build, balance, and ergonomics

At 5.34 pounds and about 12.7 inches long, the drill feels balanced enough for overhead work and tight spots where a bulkier tool would be a chore. The soft-grip main handle is comfortable, and the two-finger variable-speed trigger offers decent modulation. The side-assist handle is a must for hammer drilling; it locks down firmly, and together with the included depth rod you can repeat hole depths with reasonable accuracy.

The 1/2‑inch keyed chuck is a plus for masonry. It clamps onto carbide bits securely without slipping, even during longer runs. If you’re used to keyless chucks, the extra step of using a key is mildly inconvenient, but the holding power is worth it when percussion loads ramp up. The 6‑foot cord is on the short side; I used a 12–14 gauge extension cord to avoid voltage drop when running longer lengths.

There’s no LED light. That’s not a dealbreaker, but working in basements and utility rooms had me grabbing a headlamp more often than I’d like.

Hammering through block and brick

Skil rates this unit for drilling and hammer drilling, and it feels happiest in block and brick. With 3/16‑ and 1/4‑inch carbide bits, I was able to set Tapcon pilot holes quickly. The percussion mechanism is snappy at higher RPMs, and you can let the bit do the work with moderate forward pressure. Dust clearing is good if you “peck” the hole and back the bit out periodically.

Moving up to 5/16‑ and 3/8‑inch holes in CMU, progress was still respectable. The motor kept speed under load without constant stalling, and the keyed chuck never loosened. In older, harder brick, it took patience—lower speed, steady feed, and frequent dust clearing kept things controlled. I wouldn’t reach for this to punch repeated large holes in cured, aggregate-heavy concrete; that’s squarely in SDS‑Plus rotary hammer territory. But for occasional anchors in slab edges, mortar joints, and block walls, it gets the job done.

Heat is the limiting factor. After several minutes of continuous hammer drilling, the housing warms up quickly. I built in cool-down breaks—drill a few holes, stop, and let the motor breathe. Using sharp, quality carbide bits, keeping RPM up, and not leaning your full weight on the tool all help keep temperatures in check.

Drilling in wood and metal

In drill-only mode, the high top speed makes this a capable general shop drill. It zipped through pine and plywood with twist bits, and it handled 1‑1/2‑inch spade bits as long as I feathered the trigger on entry to prevent breakout. For hole saws in wood up to 2 inches, it’ll do it, but you need a steady wrist—there’s no clutch, so a bind-up will twist the tool. Use the side handle and brace properly.

For metal, I stayed under 3/8‑inch in mild steel with sharp bits, running slow and using cutting fluid. A step bit for conduit knockouts worked fine. Again, without a two-speed gearbox, low-speed torque is adequate but not abundant. If you regularly run large hole saws or big augers, a lower-RPM, higher-torque drill or a drill with a mechanical low gear is a better pick.

Controls and usability

• Drill/hammer selector: The mode collar is positive and easy to read; it hasn’t slipped on me.
• Variable speed: The trigger offers decent control, but this is a fast drill by nature. It’s easier to manage speed in wood than in metal.
• Lock-on: Handy for long, straight runs in wood and for repetitive drilling in softer materials. I avoid using lock-on during hammer drilling where you may need to stop instantly if a bit binds.
• Forward/reverse: Works as expected; reverse is helpful for backing out stuck bits and cleaning flutes.

Vibration, noise, and dust

Like most hammer drills with a traditional percussion mechanism, vibration is noticeable. The side handle and soft grip help, but long sessions will fatigue your hands. Noise levels are high in hammer mode; hearing protection is a must, and eye protection is non-negotiable. The California Proposition 65 warning is a reminder that silica dust is hazardous. I used a dust shroud and vacuum where possible and wore a respirator when drilling indoors.

Durability and heat management

Corded hammer drills in this class can be sensitive to heat when pushed hard. This one is no exception. Keep these practices in mind to extend its life:

• Let the motor rest after a string of holes, especially in hammer mode.
• Use sharp, quality bits and let the tool maintain speed—don’t stall it with excessive pressure.
• Avoid mixing thick materials (concrete, mortar, drywall mud). That continuous, high-torque load isn’t what a high-RPM hammer drill is built for.
• Use appropriately heavy-gauge extension cords to prevent voltage drop that can increase current draw and heat.

With those habits, mine has stayed reliable and hasn’t tripped a breaker or exhibited brush smell beyond what I’d expect after long hammering sessions. Ignore duty cycle, and you’ll feel the housing get uncomfortably hot in short order.

What it includes, and what’s missing

You get the side handle, a depth gauge, and the chuck key in the box. There’s no onboard key holder, so I zip-tied a small lanyard to keep the key handy. An LED work light would have been useful, and a longer cord would improve mobility on ladders and in attics. There’s no clutch, so be mindful of wrist safety—this is not a screwdriving tool.

Who this drill suits best

• Homeowners and DIYers who need an affordable corded option for periodic masonry—anchors in block and brick, Tapcon pilots, and occasional slab edge holes.
• General-purpose drilling in wood and metal around the workshop where a high-speed corded drill is convenient and you don’t need a low gear.
• Tradespeople as a backup or light-duty site tool when carrying an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer isn’t warranted.

Who should look elsewhere:

• Pros drilling repeated, larger-diameter holes in poured, high-aggregate concrete—an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer will be faster, less fatiguing, and more durable.
• Anyone planning to mix mortar, thinset, or concrete regularly—get a mixing drill with a low RPM, high-torque gearbox.
• Users who need a clutch or an LED, or who prefer a keyless chuck for frequent bit changes.

The bottom line

The Skil corded hammer drill delivers solid performance for its size and class. The 7.5‑amp motor, 1/2‑inch keyed chuck, and up to 48,000 BPM make it effective on block and brick, and the high top speed is handy in wood and light metal. Ergonomics are good, the controls are straightforward, and the included side handle and depth rod make it practical out of the box.

Its weaknesses are predictable for the category: it runs hot under sustained hammering, vibration is noticeable, the cord is short, and there’s no LED or clutch. Respect the duty cycle, use quality bits, and don’t treat it like a rotary hammer or a mixing drill, and it will serve well.

Recommendation: I recommend this drill for DIYers and light-duty users who need a capable, budget-friendly corded hammer drill for occasional masonry and general drilling. It’s a strong value if you work within its limits. If your workload leans toward frequent heavy masonry or mixing tasks, invest in an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer or a dedicated mixing drill instead.