DeWalt 1-1/8 in x 6 in Heavy Duty Spade Bit

Why I reached for this bit

I keep a drawer of spade bits for rough‑in work, and the 1-1/8-inch size sees a lot of action—think 3/4-inch PEX runs, bundled low‑voltage cable, and the occasional oversized clearance hole through studs. I put this DeWalt spade bit through a mixed week of framing lumber, plywood, and a few lengths of SYP and oak scrap to see if it would earn a permanent spot in the kit. It did, and for reasons that have less to do with hype and more to do with quiet, practical design choices.

Build and design

The first thing I noticed is the full‑length, heat‑treated shank. Many spade bits rely on a stubby neck and a wider body that can flex under side load. This one stays uniform and feels stouter than its weight suggests. I didn’t bend it prying chips out of a half‑drilled stud (not recommended, but it happens), and it never picked up a wobble.

The cutting head uses a spur point with small outer spurs that score the circumference before the flats evacuate the core. That detail matters: spade bits without spurs tear the top veneer of plywood and splinter exit holes in softwood. These spurs don’t turn it into a finish bit, but they noticeably clean up edges.

Other touches are practical. The 1/4-inch hex shank drops into quick‑change chucks without slipping, and it seats fine in a standard three‑jaw chuck. There’s a wire/hang hole in the paddle—handy for storage, but I also used it as a grab point to pull a light fish line through a stud bay.

At 6 inches long, it’s compact and controllable. No extension capability is built in, so if you routinely need to reach through stacked material or double plates from one side, you’ll want a longer bit.

Setup and compatibility

Most of my testing was with an 18V drill/driver on low gear for torque. The hex shank also fits impact drivers; I used one overhead for a couple holes where a compact tool was the only option. It works, but a drill delivers smoother, more predictable feed for larger diameters like this. If you do use an impact, feather the trigger and let the spurs score before leaning in.

Performance in softwood and plywood

In SPF studs and joists, the bit starts cleanly and centers well. The spurs do their job: entry edges looked tidy, and exit blowout was reduced compared to flat‑edged spades. Backing the work with a scrap board or stopping just before breakthrough and finishing from the opposite side produces very respectable results for a spade bit.

Plywood is a tougher test for any paddle style. This one handled 3/4-inch ply without smearing glue lines, provided I ran a slower speed and let the spurs score. Tear‑out on the exit side is still possible—spade bits are aggressive by nature—so I recommend a backer board for any visible face.

Performance in hardwood

In oak and maple, feed rate slows, as expected. The bit prefers moderate pressure at low RPM. I could still maintain a controlled cut without burning, and the edges stayed surprisingly crisp for a spade. If your goal is furniture‑grade holes with flat bottoms, a Forstner is the better choice. For structural holes in hardwood blocking or thresholds, this bit is fully capable with reasonable technique.

Chip ejection and heat

The chip‑removal channel is more than marketing. Chips cleared better than on plain, flat paddles—especially in wet pressure‑treated lumber, where mushy chips often clog the flutes. I used a “pecking” routine: drill an inch, back out to clear, then continue. This kept heat down and prevented the bit from binding. After a day of intermittent use, the tip was warm but not blueing, and there was no pitch buildup that would suggest poor clearance.

Hole quality and accuracy

Spade bits are about utility, not beauty, but this one leaves neat entry edges, a predictable center spur mark, and consistent diameters. The 1-1/8-inch size measured true within a hair, so press‑fit bushings and grommets went in without fighting. If you need pristine exit edges, drill until the spur just kisses the back side, then flip and finish. That technique, combined with the spurs, produces clean results in most framing materials.

Durability and maintenance

After dozens of holes—studs, a few passes through PT 2x10, and scattered hardwood—the cutting edges still felt keen. I’m not shy about touching up spade bits: a few strokes with a small file across the flats and spurs will restore bite if you’ve nicked a hidden staple. The heat‑treated shank resisted the mild bending forces that often retire cheaper bits early.

It’s worth mentioning that carbon steel spade bits don’t love nails. I clipped one old finish nail in a remodel stud; the bit survived with a tiny chip in the spur that I cleaned up in a minute. Avoid metal when you can, and your edge life will be excellent.

Practical touches: wire hole and storage

The hang/wire hole is a small but useful detail. I used it to hook a light line and pull it through a freshly drilled stud—no need to switch tools for small pulls. It also means the bit hangs conveniently on a peg or carabiner, which keeps it from vanishing to the bottom of a bucket.

Limitations

• Length: At 6 inches overall, reach is limited. You can’t span two studs or deep assemblies from one side without a longer bit.
• Control vs self‑feed: There’s no threaded tip, which I prefer for control, but it also means you supply the feed pressure. In overhead or awkward positions, keep your stance solid.
• Not a finish tool: Even with spurs, this is not a Forstner or a hole saw. For visible surfaces, plan on backer boards or drilling from both sides.

Tips for best results

• Use low gear and low RPM for large diameters—let the spurs score before increasing pressure.
• Peck to clear chips in wet or dense stock; it keeps heat down and maintains a straight path.
• Back the exit side to minimize tear‑out, especially on plywood.
• If you nick the edge, a flat file will touch up the cutting lips and spurs quickly.
• Mark depth with tape on the shank when drilling near utilities in remodel work.

How it stacks up

Compared to premium spade bits with aggressive self‑feed tips, this DeWalt is more controlled and less grabby, which I appreciate when drilling near finished surfaces or tight layouts. Versus bargain flat paddles, the spur cutters and chip channel are a clear step up in hole quality and speed. It won’t replace an auger for deep, straight bores or a Forstner for clean, flat‑bottomed holes, but for general rough‑in and utility holes at this size, it hits a sweet spot of speed, control, and durability.

Bottom line and recommendation

I’d recommend this DeWalt spade bit to anyone who regularly needs 1-1/8-inch holes in wood or wood‑based materials—electricians, plumbers running 3/4-inch PEX, and remodelers who value predictable behavior over flashy features. It starts easily, cuts clean for a spade, clears chips well, and the heat‑treated shank holds up to real jobsite abuse. The quick‑change hex shank reduces slippage and speeds tool changes, and the wire/hang hole turns out to be a genuinely useful touch. If you require extra reach or furniture‑grade holes, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is a reliable, affordable workhorse that earns its spot in the pouch.