DeWalt Standard Point Cut-Out Bit

First impressions and setup

On a recent remodel, I reached for DeWalt’s 1/8-inch cut-out bit to lay out cans and boxes through fresh 5/8-inch Type X board. I prefer a standard-point bit for this kind of work because it pierces quickly and changes direction without feeling sluggish. Right out of the pack, this one fit that profile: crisp tip geometry, straight 1/8-inch shank, and no visible runout when chucked in a 1/8-inch collet.

The bit is high-speed steel (HSS), 2 inches long with an effective cutting depth a touch over 2 inches. It’s designed for drywall and gypsum board, but DeWalt also lists wood, plastic, fiberglass, and vinyl or aluminum siding as acceptable materials. The straight shank seats cleanly in a proper collet—don’t try to fudge it with a drill chuck on a rotary tool; you won’t get the concentricity or security you need. In a dedicated cut-out tool spinning 25,000 to 30,000 RPM, the bit tracks true and stays quiet with minimal vibration.

A small but practical note: the 10-piece pack matters. Cut-out bits live hard lives around gritty dust, hidden screws, and the occasional accidental nick against a steel box. Having spares ready means you can swap at the first sign of dulling instead of muscling through and tearing paper.

Performance in drywall and gypsum board

This bit feels precise. Plunge starts are clean—no skating on the paper—and once you establish a path, it’s easy to steer small corrections with wrist pressure. That’s where a standard point pays off: it turns tighter than a pilot-tip bit without wanting to climb out of the cut. On straight runs, the bit doesn’t chatter or “drum” the gypsum; feed it steadily and you’ll see a thin, flour-like dust instead of ragged clumps.

Around electrical boxes and light cans, accuracy depends as much on technique as on the tool:

• For outside-guided cuts (tracing the outside of a box), moving counterclockwise keeps the bit’s rotation pushing into the box edge, which steadies the cut.
• For inside-guided cuts (tracing a can light opening from inside the cutout), a clockwise movement hugs the edge.

With that approach, I had minimal edge blowout and very little paper fuzz—most holes were ready for cover plates without touch-up. The bit’s 1/8-inch diameter strikes a nice balance between agility and control; it doesn’t deflect noticeably unless you lever it sideways.

Depth control is straightforward. Set the tool so the bit only extends 1/8 to 1/4 inch past the drywall thickness you’re cutting. That limits the chance of contacting wires, box clamps, or framing. The 2-inch length is generous for single- and double-layer drywall; if you’re going through additional finish layers (for example, drywall over beadboard), you may want a longer bit, but for standard residential work this is ample.

Material versatility

Although I consider this primarily a drywall bit, I tested it on a handful of typical jobsite materials:

• 1/4-inch luan and 3/8-inch plywood: Clean plunge and respectable cut quality at full speed. The bit will follow the grain a little in soft plywood; use a firm grip and slower feed to maintain line.
• 3/8-inch cellular PVC trim: Very smooth cuts, but it generates stringy chips; clear them periodically to avoid heat buildup.
• Fiberglass shower panel offcuts: It works, but this is where HSS shows its limits—fiberglass is abrasive. Keep the pass light and expect the edge to lose sharpness faster than in gypsum.
• Vinyl siding: Acceptable for small notches or outlet blocks, though I prefer a shear or snips for long runs.
• Aluminum soffit: Light cuts are fine; avoid any contact with fasteners.

I don’t recommend this bit for cement board, backer board with mesh, or anything that includes silica or abrasive aggregate. Carbide is the right choice there. Also avoid steel—hitting a screw shank will put a flat on the cutting edge instantly.

Accuracy, control, and feel

The standout trait here is predictability. Some cut-out bits feel jumpy when you meet the side of a box or the flange on a can; this one settles in with light side pressure and stays there. The point geometry balances aggressiveness and control, so you don’t have to white-knuckle your way around corners. That said, because this is a standard point rather than a true pilot, you need to be attentive around live edges: stay light as you “find” the box, then ride the perimeter. If you want a more forgiving option for high-stakes layouts, a pilot-tip version can act as a mechanical limiter against the box edge, at the cost of slightly slower cutting.

Edge quality in gypsum is very good. Paper tear is minimal if the bit is sharp and you keep the feed steady. If you see frayed paper or burnishing, that’s your cue to either increase speed, slow your feed, or swap to a fresh bit.

Durability and maintenance

HSS is a sensible choice for drywall—it’s hard enough to cut cleanly and tough enough to tolerate minor mishaps without chipping. In practice, each bit carried me through multiple rooms’ worth of outlets and cans before I noticed any loss of crispness. Longevity drops if you cross over to fiberglass or run the bit hot in PVC, but that’s expected.

A few habits extend life noticeably:
- Keep RPMs high and feed moderate; heat dulls HSS quickly.
- Clear dust. Gypsum dust packs into the flutes and turns into abrasive slurry if it overheats.
- Don’t pry. A 1/8-inch shank doesn’t like side loading across studs.
- Inspect the tip after any suspicious vibration—it likely brushed metal.

Because the pack includes ten, I don’t bother with sharpening. Once a bit starts tearing paper instead of slicing, it goes in the “rough work” bin for non-critical cuts.

Fit and compatibility

The straight 1/8-inch shank works with most cut-out tools and rotary tools equipped with a proper 1/8-inch collet. I ran it in a DeWalt and a RotoZip; both clamped securely with no slippage. If your tool ships with multiple collets, confirm you’re using the true 1/8-inch size—elastic sleeves or “universal” chucks won’t hold the bit perfectly concentric, and any wobble shows up as wider kerfs and fuzzy edges.

Practical tips for cleaner results

• Mark the center of each cutout and start there. Plunge, find an edge, and then guide around the perimeter.
• Move counterclockwise around exterior box edges; clockwise when you’re inside a circular template.
• Set depth to just clear the board. Excess projection increases the chance of nicking hidden hardware.
• Use a light touch at first contact with a box, then maintain consistent side pressure.
• Vacuum or blow out the kerf if you notice drag; packed dust heats the bit and roughens the cut.
• Eye and lung protection are a must—fine gypsum dust is no joke.

Where it falls short

There isn’t much to complain about if you’re using the bit in its intended lane. Still, a few limitations are worth noting:
- HSS dulls quickly in abrasive materials and will not survive encounters with screws or steel boxes.
- The standard point is more nimble than a pilot, but it’s less forgiving near delicate edges if your technique isn’t dialed in.
- At 2 inches, you have generous reach for drywall, but layered assemblies beyond about 1-3/4 inches start to feel tight.

If your work regularly includes cement board, plaster with sand, or dense composites, you’ll want a carbide cut-out bit instead.

Value and pack format

The 10-piece pack hits the right balance. Cut-out work rewards fresh edges; swapping to a new bit keeps the work clean and predictable, and the per-bit cost becomes a non-issue compared to the time saved on patching or recutting. Consistency across the pack was good—no oddballs for length or diameter—and the shanks were ground true enough to keep runout negligible.

Bottom line

This DeWalt cut-out bit does exactly what a drywall pro or remodeler needs: quick plunge starts, steady tracking, and clean, accurate edges around boxes and cans. The HSS build is tough enough for daily gypsum work, the 1/8-inch shank interfaces smoothly with common collets, and the standard-point geometry strikes a pleasing balance between speed and control. While it’s not the right tool for abrasive boards or frequent metal contact, it’s an easy choice for drywall and light-duty plastics and wood.

Recommendation: I recommend this bit for anyone doing regular drywall cutouts—installers, electricians, and remodelers who value predictable control and clean edges. The pack of ten supports a “use it sharp” approach, the tip geometry rewards good technique, and compatibility is broad. If your projects skew toward abrasive materials or you prefer a more guarded tip, consider a carbide or pilot-tip alternative; otherwise, this one belongs in the pouch.