Promopress Fashion Patternmaking Techniques for Accessories: Shoes, Bags, Hats, Gloves, Ties, Buttons, and Dog Clothing

A practical, wide-angle guide to accessory patternmaking

My cutting table has seen countless garments, but accessories are where I regularly hunt for reliable drafting information. I picked up this manual to tighten my approach across shoes, bags, hats, gloves, ties, buttons, and even dog clothing. After weeks of working with it—drafting test pieces, checking measurements, and translating the book’s methods to fabric and leather—I came away with a clear picture of what this manual excels at and where you’ll want supplemental resources.

Scope and structure

The manual spans roughly 250 pages and aims to be a technical reference rather than a project-by-project workbook. It covers the core patternmaking logic behind each category, illustrates base blocks and key variations, and situates designs with historical silhouettes to help you read and reshape patterns with intention. Measurements appear in both centimeters and inches. Values are expressed in decimals, which I personally prefer for precision and quick calculator work; if you’re accustomed to fractional inches, you’ll need to convert.

The layout is consistent: brief context, anatomy of the item, measurement strategy, base pattern, then variations and application notes. The diagrams are clean, the proportions are well explained, and the page design supports flipping between steps and schematics. It reads as a workshop companion, not a photo-led sew-along.

Drafting-first, construction-light

The strongest throughline is drafting. If you already know how to sew a bag’s bound pocket or a hat’s sweatband, the book gives you accurate shapes and clear logic to get there. If you’re new to sewing, the manual doesn’t hold your hand through construction. Stitch order, interfacing choices, edge finishing, or machine settings are usually implied rather than specified. I used my own experience (and a few outside notes) to bridge the gap, which is fine for intermediate makers but a hurdle for beginners.

How the categories held up in practice

• Shoes

  • What I did: I used the shoe section to analyze lasts I own, confirm length allowances, and draft a soft, slipper-style upper as a house shoe.
  • How it went: The measurement approach—comparing foot length and girth to the last’s bottom length—was practical and helped me choose the right last. The base pattern logic for a classic derby/blucher-style upper is accessible and adaptable to softer constructions. If your goal is full-on shoemaking with lasting, counters, and welted construction, you’ll need additional technical resources and tools. For soft shoes or uppers you’ll stitch to a premade sole, this section is genuinely useful.

• Bags

  • What I did: Drafted a simple structured tote with a shaped gusset and internal pocketing.
  • How it went: The bag drafting instructions cover geometry well—panel shapes, gussets, volume calculations, flap and pocket placement. The designs skew classic; nothing is trend-chasing, which can be a pro or a con. Hardware placement, reinforcement choices, and leather-specific construction are lightly addressed. I got a clean result by layering in known techniques for straps, lining, and edge finishes.

• Hats

  • What I did: A fabric bucket hat with a brim and a soft cap variation.
  • How it went: The base blocks for crowns and brims are solid, with clear relationships between head measurements and pattern arcs. For sculptural or stiffened millinery (wire, buckram, blocking), the manual doesn’t go deep. For fabric hats and casual caps, it’s effective and straightforward.

• Gloves

  • What I did: Drafted a pair of unlined gloves for my annoyingly long fingers.
  • How it went: This section shines. The finger gusset geometry, thumb placement, and ease distribution are explained more clearly than in many apparel texts. I needed a couple of muslins to nail the knuckle ease, but the process was systematic and the fit result was excellent.

• Ties

  • What I did: A classic necktie, cut on the bias with a simple keeper loop.
  • How it went: You get dimensions, shaping curves, and proportional guidance to adjust blade width and length to the wearer. Sewing directions are sparse, but any intermediate sewist can assemble and slip-stitch a tie once the pattern is accurate. The discussion leans more on shaping and less on detailed assembly.

• Buttons

  • What I did: Investigated possibilities for covered buttons and decorative shapes.
  • How it went: This is more of a conceptual and design-oriented section than a full production guide. If you’re hoping for a deep technical manual on button manufacturing, that’s beyond the book’s scope.

• Dog clothing

  • What I did: A basic dog jacket for a medium-size mutt, with a chest piece and adjustable belly strap.
  • How it went: The drafting logic is approachable and the patterns are cute, but sizing adjustments and finishing options require your own testing. I made a quick muslin, tweaked strap lengths, and rebuilt with lined seams; the manual gave me the outline, I filled in the construction.

Strengths that make it a solid bench reference

• Clear drafting logic: Across categories, the geometry is consistent and reusable. Once you understand one base block, you can build variations without guesswork.
• Dual-unit measurements: Having centimeters and inches side by side helped me collaborate with colleagues who work in different systems.
• Historical silhouettes: The shape comparisons provide context; you learn to “read” a pattern’s silhouette before cutting into expensive material.
• Breadth without redundancy: The manual avoids padding with repeated techniques. It’s succinct, and most pages carry their weight.

Limitations you should plan around

• Minimal step-by-step sewing: Expect to supply your own construction knowledge, especially for leather, structured bags, and hat finishing.
• Breadth over deep specialization: You’ll get a competent base in many categories, but not a masterclass in any single one.
• Conservative design palette: Some bag and hat examples feel classic rather than cutting-edge. That’s great for fundamentals; trend hunters may want to riff from the base.
• Decimal notation: If you think in fractional inches, keep a conversion chart or stick to metric to move faster.

Usability and production

The illustrations are crisp and scaled logically. Captions and callouts are readable, and the pace of information is brisk. I appreciated the way related variations are grouped to reduce flipping. The index is serviceable, and the contents page lets you jump to a category quickly. As a first edition, it’s impressively clean; I didn’t encounter errata that blocked progress.

Tips for getting the most from the manual

• Work in metric: The math is faster and the decimals align with the book’s notation.
• Prototype early: Make a quick muslin or paper mockup for hats, gloves, and dog garments to validate fit before committing to final materials.
• Pair with construction references: Keep a general sewing text or a leatherworking guide nearby for seam finishes, reinforcement, and hardware installation.
• Start soft with shoes: Try a fabric or soft-leather slipper or derby upper before tackling more rigid, lasted builds.
• Annotate your base blocks: Add seam allowances, grainlines, notches, and interfacing notes as you draft. The manual gives you shape; it’s up to you to make it production-ready.

Who will benefit most

• Intermediate sewists and pattern drafters who want a reliable framework for accessories.
• Fashion students building a foundational library.
• Small studio makers who need to prototype a range of products without chasing scattered tutorials.

Absolute beginners can learn from it, but should plan on supplementing with construction-focused resources. Advanced specialists will appreciate the clarity but may find certain sections too high level.

Final recommendation

I recommend this manual to intermediate makers, students, and designers who want a clear, drafting-focused reference across multiple accessory categories. It’s strongest where geometry and fit are paramount (gloves, fabric hats, basic bags, and soft shoe uppers) and lighter where manufacturing processes dominate (complex shoemaking, industrial button production, or highly structured builds). If you come in expecting a step-by-step sewing course, you’ll be frustrated; if you want dependable patterns and the reasoning behind them, you’ll get a lot of mileage out of these 249 pages.