Bosch 4" 14-Tooth Jig Saw Blades (5-Pack)

Acrylic and polycarbonate can humble the wrong jigsaw blade. I’ve scorched, chipped, and re-welded enough plastic edges over the years to approach sheet goods with caution. After several projects cutting plexiglass panels and polycarbonate guards, the Bosch T101A blades earned a permanent spot in my plastics kit.

What these blades are made to do

These are purpose-built for plastics: 4-inch, T‑shank blades with 14 TPI, made from high‑speed steel with ground teeth and a taper‑ground back. The geometry favors straight tracking and a smooth finish over aggressive material removal. At 0.28 inches tall and 0.05 inches thick, the blades are relatively stiff for their length, which helps them resist wandering on longer cuts. The working length is 2.83 inches, so think sheet stock and panels rather than deep, structural plastics.

They’re not a do‑everything blade. They shine on acrylic (plexiglass), polycarbonate, and similar plastics. If you routinely cut wood or metal, switch to a more appropriate tooth pattern or a bimetal blade.

Setup and fit

The T‑shank dropped into every modern saw I tried: a Bosch corded barrel‑grip, a Makita corded top‑handle, and a DeWalt 20V brushless. Lock-up was positive with no audible rattle under load. Orbital action should be off for plastics, and I kept the shoe square—no beveling—unless I needed a slight scribe to get a clean starting edge.

Bosch recommends cooling specialty blades with water and using a GFCI‑protected power source. I followed that guidance. A light, controlled drip or a dampened cut line is all it takes to keep heat at bay. If running water near a corded tool gives you pause, use a GFCI adapter or a cordless saw and keep the coolant modest.

Cutting performance in plastics

• 3–6 mm acrylic: With the saw at a low to mid speed, orbital off, and a steady feed, I got clear, burr‑light edges with minimal frosting. Protective film left on both sides reduced surface scuffs. Cut edges looked almost machined, needing only a quick pass with a scraper before solvent bonding.

• 8–10 mm acrylic: This is where many general‑purpose blades start to melt the kerf. The T101A held its temper. I did use a light water mist on longer rips. The cut stayed open, chips evacuated cleanly, and I didn’t see the kerf re‑weld behind the blade—a common frustration with wrong‑tooth blades.

• Polycarbonate: Slightly more forgiving than acrylic, but also prone to fuzzing with the wrong blade. The T101A kept the finish tidy. On tight inside corners I pre‑drilled and turned the blade slowly; forcing it will generate heat and chatter.

• PVC and ABS sheet: Clean, easy cuts. I could run the saw a touch faster without melting, though I still preferred a conservative speed for accuracy.

The blade’s stiffness and the taper‑ground back help it track straight. With a fence or a clamped straightedge, I could rip narrow strips without the blade walking. Freehand, the blade follows a scribed line predictably as long as I didn’t rush.

Technique tips that made a difference

• Keep orbital off, and use low to medium speed. Heat is the enemy; tooth speed and friction cause melting.
• Support both sides of the cut. Sandwiching thin sheet between sacrificial plywood reduces vibration and chipping.
• Leave the protective film on, or tape the line, to avoid micro‑chipping the top surface.
• Pre‑drill interior corners rather than forcing tight turns. These blades prefer gentle curves and straight lines.
• Use minimal pressure. Let the teeth work; pushing hard makes heat and oscillation.
• A bit of water or a mild soapy solution along the cut line goes a long way. If you’re tethered, plug into a GFCI.

Edge quality and cleanup

The kerf is roughly in line with the blade’s thickness. Edges came off the saw square and smooth enough for visible panels. On acrylic, a light scrape and a quick buff can achieve a near‑polished edge. Polycarbonate needed just a deburring pass. I saw very little chip-out on the exit side when the work was well supported. If you’re chasing perfectly transparent edges for display pieces, a router with a spiral bit still beats a jigsaw; but for field cuts, these blades produce a respectable finish.

Durability and heat resistance

High‑speed steel is a good match for plastics. It takes a sharp edge and holds it as long as you manage heat. On a day of cutting 6–10 mm acrylic panels, one blade handled multiple meters of cuts before I noticed any dulling. With no coolant and an impatient feed, I could deteriorate the edge faster—no surprise there. Compared to a bimetal general‑purpose blade, the T101A stayed cooler and resisted the “smear and fuse” effect. It’s not fragile, but it’s also not a curve‑carver. Forcing tight radii risks twisting the shank and snapping the blade at the clamp.

The 5‑pack format makes sense. Plastics unpredictably load teeth with fines, and having a fresh blade ready keeps cuts consistent.

Where it falls short

• Tight curves aren’t its strength. If your template demands small radii, you’ll either need to nibble with relief cuts or switch to a blade designed for curves.
• Not a crossover blade. It will cut wood and thin aluminum in a pinch, but the tooth profile and HSS edge are optimized for plastics—and you’ll reduce its life if you use it as an all‑rounder.
• Requires attention to technique. If you run it fast with orbital on, you can still melt acrylic. The blade helps a lot, but it doesn’t override poor settings.

Comparisons and use cases

Versus a general‑purpose fine‑tooth blade, the T101A runs cooler and leaves a truer edge in acrylic. Versus a reverse‑tooth laminate blade, it produces fewer micro‑chips but won’t handle veneers as cleanly. On thicker polycarbonate, a fine‑pitch metal blade can avoid chipping, but it tends to clog and heat up faster than the T101A.

For shop installs of machine guards, window cutouts in equipment panels, custom light diffusers, and DIY glazing, these blades make the jigsaw a credible substitute for a table saw with a plastics blade—especially when the panel is already mounted and can’t be moved to a larger tool.

Compatibility and setup notes

The T‑shank interface fit Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Metabo, Milwaukee, and similar modern saws in my tests. If you’re running an older, U‑shank‑only jigsaw, these won’t fit. The 2.83‑inch working length is generous for most sheet stock, but if you’re cutting very thick blocks of plastic, step up to a longer blade or change tools.

The bottom line

The T101A blades do what plastic‑specific jigsaw blades should: they track straight, stay cool with proper technique, and leave an edge that needs minimal cleanup. The stiffness inspires confidence on longer rips, and the 14 TPI pattern strikes a smart balance between speed and finish in acrylic and polycarbonate. They won’t replace a router for showcase edges or a bandsaw for intricate curves, but they make the jigsaw a reliable, field‑friendly option for plastics.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades for anyone who regularly cuts plexiglass, acrylic, or polycarbonate with a jigsaw and is willing to use the right settings and light cooling. They deliver clean, melt‑free cuts, fit most modern saws, and hold an edge well when heat is managed. If your work skews toward tight curves or mixed materials, consider supplementing them with curve‑cut and bimetal options—but keep a pack of these on hand whenever plastics are on the cut list.