Skil 14 IN. Abrasive cut-off saw

Why I reached for this abrasive chop saw

I keep a few different metal-cutting options in the shop—band saw, cold-cut miter saw, plasma—but there are times when an abrasive chop saw is still the simplest, fastest path to a clean, square cut on mild steel. This Skil cut-off saw hits that utility sweet spot. It’s straightforward to set up, comfortable to use, and powerful enough for day-in, day-out garage or jobsite work without needing kid-glove treatment.

Setup and first impressions

Out of the box, the saw is refreshingly uncomplicated. The large 11 x 18-1/2 in base gives you real estate to support longer stock, and the stamped steel guards and chip deflector feel sturdier than the thin, rattly shrouds you’ll find on bargain models. I squared the vise to the blade with a machinist’s square before the first cut—worth doing on any chop saw—and the vise kept its alignment after a few dozen clamp cycles.

At roughly 34 lbs, it’s portable without being flimsy. I can carry it one-handed by the D-handle when needed, though that big base does make it a two-hand carry up stairs. The on-tool wrench storage is where it should be—on the base—so wheel changes don’t turn into a scavenger hunt.

One unique touch: the GFCI protection on the cord. It’s a small module, not obtrusive, and it’s a sensible safety addition if you’re working outdoors, in a garage, or on temporary power. I ran the saw on a 12-gauge extension cord and had no nuisance trips.

Power and cutting performance

This is a 15-amp, 3800 rpm abrasive saw with a 14-inch wheel and a 1-inch arbor—standard consumables are easy to find. Skil includes a 14-inch abrasive wheel that held up better than expected through my first test batch of cuts. I cut mild steel angle, flat stock, rebar, and 2-inch square tube without any bogging, as long as I let the wheel do the work and avoided reefing on the handle.

Cut times are right in line with what I expect from a 15-amp abrasive: a few seconds for thin angle or strap, and under a half-minute for thicker tube or solid rounds. For stock near the upper end of its capacity (4-1/2 in square, 5 in round), you’ll need a patient feed and a consistent rhythm to keep the wheel tracking straight. That’s not unique to this saw; it’s the nature of abrasive wheels. The motor maintains speed well provided you don’t stall the cut by crowding the kerf.

The adjustable depth-of-cut stop is useful when you’re doing repetitive work or protecting the base from accidental over-travel on small pieces. It’s also handy if you’re intentionally leaving a thin tab for controlled break-off.

Accuracy and repeatability

Abrasive chops don’t deliver the cold-saw precision of a toothed blade, but this saw makes it straightforward to get square, repeatable results. The quick-lock vise is the star here. It moves fast, clamps tight, and doesn’t creep as the wheel bites. I checked 90-degree cuts across angle and tube, and consistency was solid once the vise was squared.

Burrs are a given. Expect to hit edges with a flap wheel or deburring tool after each cut. With a light feed, the kerf was reasonably narrow and the wheel didn’t wander. For the cleanest corners on angle iron, I’ve gotten better results by orienting the “leg” that will finish last on the bottom, then easing off pressure right before break-through to avoid fracturing the last few grains of abrasive.

Ergonomics and control

The D-handle is comfortable with or without gloves, and the head return spring is balanced in a way that won’t fight you mid-cut. I like the handle’s neutral wrist position; it gives good control when you’re feathering the last bit of material. The trigger is predictable, and I didn’t notice any awkward travel or lag.

Vibration is moderate—normal for an abrasive saw—and the base does a good job of soaking up chatter. If you’re cutting small offcuts, be generous with your clamping and use sacrificial backing to keep short pieces from pinging around.

Chip and spark management

No getting around it: abrasive saws make sparks and grit. The stamped steel guards and chip deflector channel a surprising amount of the spray downward and to the rear, but you’ll still want a clear, nonflammable area behind the saw and a metal pail or spark mat to catch debris. I wouldn’t run this in a finished space without protection. The guard swings smoothly and doesn’t obscure the cut line.

Hearing protection, gloves, and eye/face protection aren’t optional with this type of tool. The saw is loud, as all abrasive chops are, and the dust is fine. A respirator is a smart add if you’re doing extended sessions.

Build and portability

The big base is the right call for stability and is drilled in sensible places for bolting down to a bench or stand. Even loose, it stays planted. The overall build skews practical: stamped steel where it makes sense, no fragile plastic where it doesn’t, and fasteners you can access without disassembling half the machine.

At just under 34 lbs, bringing it from the truck to the work is easy, and it stores upright without drama. The cord is adequately long, and with the GFCI module you’re better protected on temporary circuits. If you’re running off an extension cord, use 12-gauge or heavier to avoid voltage drop; this is a 15-amp tool that appreciates full current under load.

Maintenance and consumables

Wheel changes are quick thanks to the on-board wrench and easy access to the arbor nut. The 1-inch arbor means you can buy almost any common 14-inch metal-cutting abrasive wheel. I had good life from the included wheel on mild steel; stainless will eat any abrasive faster, so plan accordingly.

Keep the pivot and vise screw clean of grit and add light lubrication periodically. Wipe down the base after a session to keep abrasive dust from grinding into painted surfaces and sliding components. Inspect the GFCI module occasionally for damage, especially if your saw lives in a gang box or rides in a truck.

Limitations and things to know

• It’s an abrasive saw. Cuts are hot, spark-heavy, and leave burrs. If you need cold, near-burr-free cuts and better miters, a dry-cut saw is the upgrade—but it comes with higher blade costs and more weight.
• The vise is quick and secure, but you still need to square it on day one and recheck occasionally if you move the saw a lot.
• Maximum capacity is generous for a 14-inch abrasive (5-inch round, 4-1/2-inch square), but be realistic: the last 10 percent of a big cut is where an aggressive feed will deflect the wheel. Patience pays.
• There’s no integral length stop. For repetitive cuts, clamp a stop block to the base or set up a stand with a flip stop.

Who it’s for

If you’re a DIY fabricator, a contractor who occasionally needs to cut steel on site, or a small shop that values speed and simplicity, this saw fits well. It’s also a good “second saw” alongside a horizontal band saw: use the band saw for quiet, unattended cuts and the abrasive for quick, square chops and rework.

If your work demands pristine edges, precise miters, and minimal post-processing, a cold-cut miter saw or a high-quality band saw will serve you better, albeit at more cost and less portability.

Recommendation

I recommend this Skil cut-off saw. It delivers stable, predictable performance with a sensible set of features that make daily use easier: a sturdy, roomy base; a comfortable D-handle; a genuinely useful quick-lock vise; on-tool wrench storage; and the added safety of GFCI protection. Power is appropriate for a 15-amp platform, and with a squared vise and a patient feed, it produces reliably square cuts in common steel stock. It’s not trying to be a precision miter saw, and it doesn’t need to be—it’s a robust, portable abrasive chop saw that gets metal cut quickly and safely, which is exactly what I want from this category.