Skil 3/16 x 4 In. Carbide Tipped Masonry Drill Bit

Why I reached for this bit

A box of 1/4-inch concrete screws, a few ledger brackets, and a block wall were on my agenda. For pilot holes in brick, block, and the occasional patch of poured concrete, I wanted something compact, accurate, and easy to drive with either a hammer drill or a quick-change chuck. I grabbed the Skil 3/16-in masonry bit and ran it through a week’s worth of real tasks to see where it shines—and where it doesn’t.

Design and build quality

The bit’s geometry is thoughtful for its size class. The carbide-tipped cutting edges are clearly defined and evenly brazed. A split-point nose (unusual but welcome on a masonry profile) helps the tip stay put on harder surfaces and reduces the skittering that can plague small-diameter masonry starts. Two flutes run the length of the body, and the gullets are generous enough for a 3/16-in bit to clear fines without binding.

The 1/4-in hex shank is the standout convenience feature. It locks into quick-change holders and impact drivers, and it also seats securely in a standard three-jaw chuck without the rotational slip you sometimes get with round-shank masonry bits. The shank and body are heat-treated, and while you can’t see heat-treating, you can feel it in how the bit resists twisting when it encounters aggregate.

At 4 inches overall, you get enough working length for most plastic anchors, Tapcon-style screws, and sleeve anchors, with room to spare for dust clearing. The bold printed size callout is handy in a crowded bit case.

Setup, speed, and mode

• Drills used: 18V compact hammer drill with variable speed, and a mid-torque impact driver.
• Modes: I ran hammer mode for concrete, brick, and block; rotary-only for tile and to start holes where precise placement mattered.
• Speed: Keeping the bit under 1,500 RPM is important. Faster spins glaze the carbide and heat up the tip and fines. Slow and steady with firm pressure produced the best results.

If you’re tempted to skip the hammer drill and just use an impact driver, this bit will work—but expect slower progress in harder materials. Impact drivers deliver rotational blows, not axial percussion, and masonry cutting benefits from that axial hammering. For brick and block, the impact driver was serviceable; for poured concrete, the hammer drill was noticeably faster and cleaner.

Performance in common materials

Brick and cinder block
- Starting accuracy was a strong suit. The split point and a light squeeze of the trigger let me mark location without a punch.
- In medium-density brick and standard CMU, the bit cut predictably. I could drill 1-1/2 in. deep pilot holes for 1/4-in concrete screws in 10–20 seconds per hole with a compact hammer drill, pausing once to clear dust.
- Dual flutes moved debris out well; backing out every half inch kept the hole from choking and reduced heat buildup.

Poured concrete
- In cured, aggregate-rich slabs, progress slowed—as expected for a small-diameter carbide-tipped bit driven by a compact hammer drill rather than an SDS-plus rotary hammer.
- The key was technique: low speed, steady axial pressure, let the hammering do the work, and back out frequently. With that approach, I achieved clean 1-inch embedment without burning the tip, but it took patience. On especially tough aggregate, I needed a couple of short pecks to break through.
- Hole size stayed within tolerance for 1/4-in concrete screws, with snug engagement and no spinning.

Tile (ceramic)
- Rotary-only mode, low speed, and a piece of masking tape to prevent skating: the bit started without drama. A tiny puddle or mist of water kept the tip cool during the first few seconds. Once through the glaze, it continued smoothly into the substrate.
- I wouldn’t use this as a primary tile bit for large runs, but for occasional fixtures through ceramic into masonry backing, it was effective.

Accuracy and hole quality

For a 3/16-in bit, runout and wander were minimal. The split point did what it promised—centering was easier on harder surfaces, and the tip didn’t walk across painted or slightly uneven face shells. The holes were cylindrical with modest sidewall scoring, typical of hammer drilling, and debris evacuation was efficient when I respected a slow feed-and-clear rhythm. Plastic anchors seated evenly, and 1/4-in concrete screws required predictable driving torque.

Durability and wear

After a dozen holes in brick, eight in block, and a handful in cured concrete, the cutting edges showed light polishing but no chips. On a particularly gravelly pour with exposed aggregate, I felt the pace diminish and noticed a bit of tip glazing; a brief return to brick seemed to refresh the cutting edge, which is common as the micro-edge reconditions under easier cutting. The body stayed straight, and the hex shank never slipped or rounded over in quick-change chucks.

This is still a small-diameter carbide-tipped bit: it’s not a forever tool. Abuse—high RPM, dry drilling in tile without cooling, or forcing it through hard aggregate—will shorten its life quickly. Used within its limits, I’d expect it to last through multiple small projects.

Practical tips for better results

• Use hammer mode for masonry; switch to rotary-only only for tile or precise starts.
• Keep speed below 1,500 RPM and let the percussion do the work. Excess speed glazes carbide.
• Clear dust frequently. Back out every 3/8–1/2 inch, tap the bit, or use a blower/vac to evacuate fines.
• Mark starts with a center punch or use painter’s tape on smooth surfaces. The split point helps, but a little prep goes a long way.
• For impact drivers, limit use to brick and block. For concrete, a hammer drill is markedly more efficient.
• Mind depth. The 4-in length is generous, but set a stop collar or wrap tape to avoid overdrilling in tile or hollow block.

Limitations

• Not a substitute for an SDS-plus system in high-strength concrete. If you’re drilling dozens of deep holes in structural concrete, step up your tool and bit category.
• Progress can be slow in aggregate-heavy pours, especially if you lean on the throttle. Technique matters.
• While the hex shank adds convenience, it also signals this bit’s intent: general-purpose masonry work with common cordless tools, not heavy commercial use.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros tackling light to medium masonry tasks: anchors in brick or block, pilot holes for small hardware, and occasional holes in cured concrete.
• Users who value quick-change convenience and compatibility with both impact drivers and standard chucks.
• Anyone who needs reliable starts on harder surfaces without walking at small diameters.

If your daily work is drilling 3/16-in holes into structural concrete all day, you’ll be happier with SDS-plus carbide bits and a rotary hammer. If you’re mixing materials and want a compact, accurate bit that plays nicely with a cordless hammer drill, this one fits.

The bottom line

The Skil 3/16-in masonry bit earns its keep through thoughtful geometry and practical features: a split point that truly helps with starts, dual flutes that keep dust moving, a sturdy heat-treated body, and a hex shank that locks in securely. It’s not the fastest option in hard concrete, but with the right technique and a hammer drill, it produces accurate, anchor-ready holes across brick, block, and light to medium concrete. Durability is solid for its size and intent, and usability is excellent.

Recommendation: I recommend this bit for general-purpose masonry work where you need accurate starts, clean small-diameter holes, and compatibility with both hammer drills and quick-change drivers. It’s a smart addition to a cordless kit for mixed-material jobs. If your workload is heavy, deep, and concrete-only, step up to SDS-plus; for everything else in the 3/16-in range, this bit is a dependable choice.