OUTPRIZE Aluminum Trailer Ladder Rack, 6FT to 9FT Adjustable Trailer Roof Ladder Rack for Universal Enclosed and Open Trailers, 400 lbs Capacity, Silver

What I installed and why

I needed a lightweight, weatherproof rack to turn a small enclosed trailer and a 10-foot open utility trailer into useful haulers for ladders, lumber, and the occasional kayak. The Outprize aluminum ladder rack checked the right boxes on paper: fully welded aluminum, 400 lb rating, adjustable height and span, stainless hardware, and a finish that promised to resist corrosion. I’ve had it on two different trailers over the past few months, trimming it to fit one and running it full width on the other, and I’ve put it through daily contractor use as well as a couple of weekend DIY hauls.

Installation: straightforward, with a few smart steps

Assembly is simple, but installation deserves patience. The rack ships as welded uprights with crossbars and feet. Two people make it easier to square and hold while you mark holes. I mounted one set to the sidewalls of an enclosed trailer and another set to the side rails of a utility trailer.

A few notes from my install:

• Pre-drill and test-fit. Because you’re drilling through your trailer wall or rail, measure twice and mark centerlines. On the enclosed trailer, I located studs, used painter’s tape as a drill guide, and started with a small pilot before stepping up to the final bit size.
• Use the right sealants. The kit includes stainless hardware and waterproof caps; I added butyl tape behind the feet and a bead of exterior-grade sealant around the fasteners inside and out. Zero leaks after multiple downpours.
• Consider backing plates. On thin trailer skins, backing plates or fender washers spread load and reduce “oil-canning.” I used fender washers inside the wall on the enclosed trailer.
• Anti-seize is your friend. Stainless hardware can gall. A dab of anti-seize on the threads kept everything smooth and torqueable.

Time-wise, the first install took me about two hours with layout, drilling, sealing, and tightening. The second set on the utility trailer went faster after I’d established my workflow.

Build quality and design

The Outprize rack is stiffer than I expected for its weight. The uprights on my set include 45-degree gussets where they meet the feet; that small detail adds noticeable rigidity, especially under racking loads when you’re tying down off-center cargo. Welds are clean and consistent, and the uprights and crossbars are square. The oxidation coating is uniform, with a low-gloss, aluminum-colored finish that sheds weather well.

The crossbar surface is slick, which helps heavy ladders slide on and off but also means you need to pay attention to tie-downs and stops. I added two rubber strips and a couple of removable wooden blocks to each bar to create grip and prevent fore-aft movement when braking. It’s a cheap, worthy upgrade.

The height adjustability (22 to 26-3/8 inches) is generous enough to clear rounded roofs and tall cargo boxes. On a low, flat-roof utility trailer, even the minimum height looks a bit tall, but the extra clearance is handy for stacked loads and keeps straps from rubbing on roof edges.

Adjustability and fit

Width adjustability from 6 to 9 feet makes this rack workable for most single-axle utility trailers and common enclosed trailer widths, including 5x8, 6x12, 7x14, and 8.5-foot-wide cargo trailers. On my 6-foot enclosed trailer, I trimmed the crossbars to get a clean, flush look. Cutting and deburring took a few minutes with a fine-tooth blade; the end caps cover your work and keep water out.

For height, I set the front crossbar one notch lower than the rear on the utility trailer. That slight drop helps with loading long boards and ladders from the back and reduces wind lift on flat stock. The slotting in the uprights makes these adjustments easy, and the stainless fasteners lock down without slop.

On-the-road performance

I’ve hauled two 32-foot extension ladders, bundles of 14-foot 2x material, PVC conduit, and a pair of 72-cell solar panels. With loads in the 150 to 250 lb range, the rack stayed quiet and composed. There’s minimal flex in hard crosswinds, and the gusseted uprights resist sway when you cinch straps tight from one side.

Wind noise exists—any exposed crossbar adds some—but it’s behind the tow vehicle and largely a non-issue in the cab. Fuel economy didn’t suffer noticeably compared to the trailer without a rack, though big, flat loads (like panels or sheet goods) will always add drag.

The finish holds up. After weeks of coastal weather, I see no oxidation, the hardware remains clean, and the end caps keep water from creeping into the tubes. If you scratch the coating, a quick touch-up with clear coat or aluminum paint is a smart preventative step.

Capacity and limitations

The 400 lb rating is realistic for typical use across two crossbars when loads are evenly distributed and properly tied down. For concentrated point loads (e.g., heavy pipe bundles), I’d add a third crossbar or distribute with a plank to be conservative. The rack is not a modular “system” with accessory channels; it’s simple rectangular tubing. If you want load stops, j-hooks, or tube clamps, you’ll be drilling or bolting your own accessories—which is easy to do, but worth noting.

Other limitations I’ve observed:

• Height is fixed within a range. If you want a super low-profile rack for a small open trailer, even the minimum setting may sit higher than you’d prefer.
• The slick coating needs grip aids. Rubber strips or wood cleats on the bars reduce sliding and wear on ladders.
• You’re drilling the trailer. If your trailer is new or you’re not comfortable putting holes in it, factor in that commitment and the sealing steps.

Practical tips for best results

• Align with a string line. Snap a line or run a taut string to keep the uprights plumb and the crossbars perfectly parallel.
• Add grip and stops. Rubber conveyor belt pieces or marine traction tape improve friction. Removable wood blocks or aluminum stops bolted through the bars keep loads from creeping.
• Check torque after the first trip. Stainless hardware can settle slightly; a quick re-torque keeps everything tight.
• Protect your cargo. Foam pads under kayaks or panels, plus fore/aft lines for long boats, make travel stress-free.
• Consider quick-remove rear bar. On the utility trailer, I replaced the rear-bar bolts with hitch pins for fast removal when I need a completely open bed.

Who it suits

• Contractors and trades who need a light, rust-proof rack on enclosed or open trailers for ladders, trim, conduit, and sheet stock.
• DIYers who haul occasional long loads and want a simple, durable setup without a premium price tag.
• Weekend paddlers who want to move kayaks or canoes on a trailer without loading a truck roof.

If you need integrated accessory tracks, ultra-low profile, or a no-drill system for delicate van roofs without internal reinforcement, this isn’t the ideal match. For most trailer users, its simplicity is a strength.

Value

Against steel alternatives, the Outprize aluminum rack costs less than many brand-name systems and won’t rust. It’s lighter to handle during install, easier to keep clean, and the stainless hardware and caps are thoughtful touches absent on some budget racks. You’ll give up brand-specific accessories and slot channels, but you gain corrosion resistance and a very solid 400 lb rating in a straightforward package.

Recommendation

I recommend the Outprize aluminum ladder rack. It’s a lightweight, stiff, and weather-resistant way to put real carrying capacity on enclosed and open trailers without complicating your setup. The install is approachable with basic tools, the adjustability covers most trailer sizes and roof shapes, and the 400 lb capacity is credible in the real world. My only cautions are the taller stance at the lowest setting, the slick bar surface that benefits from added grip, and the fact that you must be comfortable drilling and sealing your trailer. If those points fit your use case, this rack delivers dependable performance and strong value.