Hardware Essentials 852224 Patio Door Security Pin, Silver

Why I tried this security pin

My sliding patio door’s latch has always felt a little unsure—fine on a good day, but not something I’d stake security on. I wanted a simple mechanical backup that couldn’t wiggle loose or fail when the weather changes. That’s what pushed me to try this patio door security pin. It’s old-school hardware—a piece of steel and a couple of screws—but that’s exactly the appeal. No key to lose, no moving parts to wear out, and no app required. Just a pin that positively locks the slider to the frame.

Design and build

The security pin is a straightforward, rust-resistant steel pin tethered by a small chain to a mounting plate. The finish is a subtle silver that blends in well with standard aluminum and vinyl sliders. It ships with matching screws and basic instructions. There’s nothing flashy here, and that’s a good thing. The entire concept relies on strength, alignment, and a snug fit.

Two small but thoughtful touches stand out. First, the chain and cradle keep the pin handy; you’re not pocketing it or setting it down on a sill where it will inevitably go missing. Second, the mounting plate allows some flexibility in how you position the assembly, so you can choose the top or bottom of the active door panel and tune the exact location to your door’s geometry. The hardware is compact and low-profile, which matters if you have tight clearances with blinds or a screen door.

Install experience

Plan on 20–30 minutes if you have a decent drill and a patient approach. The kit asks for a marking pencil, a drill with 1/16-inch and 3/16-inch bits, and a handheld screwdriver. I’d add painter’s tape and a vacuum to that list. Tape helps keep the bit from walking on smooth aluminum, and the vacuum keeps metal shavings from heading straight into the track.

Here’s how my install went:

• Positioning: I mounted mine near the top corner of the active panel, above eye level but accessible. Higher placements make it harder for curious kids to reach and help reduce potential prying leverage.
• Pilot hole: After marking both parts of the frame (the movable panel and the fixed jamb/frame it overlaps), I drilled a 1/16-inch pilot hole. Go slow, especially around vinyl frames, and double-check you’re clear of glass. If your door has a narrow metal wall, use a stop collar or wrap tape around the bit to limit depth.
• Final hole: I opened the passage with the 3/16-inch bit through the active panel and into the receiving frame. A tight, clean hole is what gives the pin a positive, rattle-free seat.
• Mounting the plate: The plate fastens with two screws. I recommend pre-drilling and driving by hand to avoid stripping.
• Test fit: Insert the pin with the door closed; it should slide in smoothly but snugly. If it binds, re-check alignment; a millimeter off at the pilot stage can show up here.

My only hiccup was with the included screws—one felt a touch soft and wanted to cam out under moderate torque. Switching to my own stainless pan-head screws solved that. If your door frame is particularly hard or you’re working in cold weather, a drop of wax on the threads helps.

Everyday use and performance

With the pin in place, the door doesn’t budge. There’s a satisfying certainty to it—no play, no rattle. The secondary benefit I noticed right away was reduced draft and track noise during windy weather. Locking the panel rigidly against the frame takes some load off the old latch and tightens the overall assembly.

From a security standpoint, this is nightly habit-level simple. Slide the door shut, drop the pin, done. Unlike stick-in-the-track solutions, the hole and pin also help prevent the panel from being forced off its track or lifted (though if lift is a big concern in your area, pairing the pin with anti-lift blocks at the head track is wise).

One nice trick: you can drill a second hole to allow a partial opening for ventilation while keeping the door pinned. I made a second stop about four inches open—useful for airflow without giving up the lock. Just ensure the opening is narrow enough to prevent reach-through access.

Compatibility and fit

The security pin works best on standard residential sliding glass doors with overlapping frames—aluminum, vinyl, or clad. It can also be used on many sliding windows. Doors with unusually narrow or hollow profiles may require careful placement to ensure the receiving hole lands on solid material. If your slider’s overlap is minimal or your interlock geometry is unconventional, dry-fit and measure twice before drilling.

It’s worth noting that this is not a no-drill solution. Renters should check their lease. You’re making permanent holes in the frame—small and tidy, but permanent.

What could be better

• Screws: The included screws are serviceable, but the heads can feel soft. If you have stainless or hardened replacements on hand, use them.
• Retention against vibration: On a door that sees frequent slams or in high-vibration environments, a pin without a detent can creep. I didn’t experience this with normal household use, but it’s something to consider in RVs or trailers. A light O-ring on the pin or a slightly undersized receiving hole can boost retention if needed.
• Precision matters: The device is only as good as your drilling accuracy. If you rush the pilot and blow the alignment, the pin can bind. Take your time on layout.
• Aesthetic options: The silver finish blends well with most frames, but having a dark bronze option would match more doors out there.

Durability and maintenance

The rust-resistant steel has held up fine so far. That said, the receiving hole is a raw edge in the door frame; a quick touch with a deburring tool or even a countersink improves feel and limits paint flake on coated frames. A drop of dry lube or silicone in the hole once in a while keeps the pin sliding smoothly. Inspect the chain occasionally; it’s not under load, but if you have pets that like to bat at dangling things, tuck the pin into its cradle so it’s not a toy.

Safety and usability notes

• Height: Mount it out of young children’s reach if you’re using it as a child-proofing aid.
• Emergency egress: Make sure everyone in the household who may need to exit quickly knows where the pin is and how to remove it. I keep mine tethered in its bracket so it’s always in the same spot.
• Screen doors: If you mount near the top, check that your screen door clears the pin and chain.
• Glass caution: Modern sliders often have glass close to the frame edge. Use a bit stop and measured care to avoid drilling too deep.

Value

It’s hard to beat the price-to-performance ratio of a properly placed steel pin. You get a robust secondary lock, a tighter seal, and an easy ventilation stop option without changing hardware or re-keying anything. If you’re dealing with a finicky latch or you want a layered security approach, this is a low-cost, high-confidence upgrade.

Practical tips

• Use painter’s tape as a drill guide and to catch shavings.
• Pre-drill every screw hole; drive by hand to avoid stripping.
• Consider your ventilation stop distances and drill a second hole while you’re set up.
• If the pin feels loose under vibration, add a small O-ring or slightly reduce the hole size with a metal bushing or by selecting a closer bit tolerance (metric 4.5 mm can be a hair tighter than 3/16-inch).

Bottom line

I recommend this security pin. It’s simple, sturdy, and effective, and it solves a common sliding-door weakness without complexity. Installation is easy with basic tools, the rust-resistant build should last, and the ability to add a “vented but locked” position is genuinely useful. My only caution is to bring your own quality screws if you’ve had issues with soft fasteners and to take the time to align the holes carefully. For homeowners looking for a reliable secondary lock and a little extra peace of mind, this is a smart, budget-friendly addition.