Honoson Window Latch Locks Window Parts and Hardware Tilt Latch Plastic Construction, Spring Loaded, 2 Inch Hole Center Spacing Sliding Lock Replacement

Why I Reached for These Tilt Latches

A broken tilt latch is a small failure that turns into a big annoyance fast—sashes rattle, cleaning becomes a wrestling match, and you start avoiding the window altogether. I recently swapped out a handful of tired OEM latches on a couple of vinyl double-hungs with this Honoson four-pack of spring-loaded tilt latches. They’re simple, inexpensive, and sized to hit a common standard. Here’s how they performed, what to watch for, and where they make sense.

What You Get (and What You Don’t)

The set includes four plastic, spring-loaded tilt latches in white: two lefts and two rights. Each latch is roughly 3 x 1 inches with 2-inch center-to-center screw spacing. That dimension is the key to compatibility; if your window tops rail has the same spacing, you’re most of the way there.

Notably, there are no screws in the package. That’s fine if you’re reusing your existing screws (I did), but plan ahead if yours are stripped or missing. For vinyl sashes, #6 screws in the 3/8-inch to 5/8-inch range typically do the trick—long enough to bite, short enough to avoid incident with internal glazing or reinforcement. Bring an old screw to the hardware store to match thread and head type if you’re unsure.

Installation: Straightforward, With a Few Gotchas

On my windows, the install was as simple as unscrewing the old latches, aligning the new ones over the existing holes, and driving the screws home. The 2-inch spacing lined up perfectly, which meant no drilling, no filling, and no swearing. Each latch took under five minutes, including a quick test of the tilt function.

A few tips from the bench:

• Confirm left/right before you start. Each latch is handed; flipping them isn’t an option. Dry-fit one and operate the spring button to verify orientation.
• Don’t over-torque. These housings are plastic with molded bosses. A hand screwdriver gives better feel than a drill/driver and helps avoid stripped plastic or cracked housings.
• Keep the latch fully retracted when sliding the sash back into the frame after cleaning. Forcing a partially engaged tongue into the jamb is a great way to snap it.
• If your old screws spin without grabbing, step up to a slightly longer or coarser-thread screw, or add a plastic anchor plug sized for vinyl.

I didn’t need to pre-drill anything because I was reusing holes. If you do need to drill, use a small bit and stay shallow; there’s not much material in the sash rail, and you don’t want to pierce anything critical.

Fit and Compatibility

These are aimed at single- and double-hung windows that tilt inward from the top—think modern vinyl or composite sashes with surface-mount latches. If your windows have mortised or slide-in latches, a totally different style, or unconventional hole spacing, these won’t be the match.

The 3 x 1-inch footprint covered my old outline cleanly, and the white color blended well with standard sash white. If your frames have yellowed from sun exposure, expect a slight color mismatch. Flush fit was good; the top edge sat level with the sash cap and didn’t snag fingers during operation.

Before buying, I recommend:

• Measure center-to-center distance between your existing screw holes (should be 2 inches).
• Check the latch body footprint to ensure it covers old scarring.
• Verify the latch tongue depth roughly matches your OEM to ensure positive engagement in the jamb pocket.

Build Quality and Feel

These are molded plastic with a spring-loaded slide. Out of the box, the action felt crisp, and after several weeks of daily use (and more than a few unnecessary test cycles), the springs still return with a decisive snap. There’s a touch of lateral play in the slide if you press sideways, typical of budget plastic latches, but it didn’t translate into rattling or accidental disengagement in my setup.

Let’s be clear: plastic is plastic. As long as you treat the latches like a mechanism and not a handle, they hold up fine. Abuse them—over-tighten screws, ram the sash shut while they’re half engaged, or use them to yank the sash sideways—and you’ll find the limits quickly. For most residential use, the material choice keeps costs down and works as intended.

If you’re outfitting a high-traffic rental where windows get hard use, or you simply want the most robust option, metal-bodied latches or OEM parts from your window manufacturer are safer bets. For standard homeowner maintenance, this set hits a sensible value/durability balance.

Performance in Daily Use

Once installed, the latches did exactly what I wanted:

• Positive lock-up: With the sash seated, the tongues engaged smoothly and eliminated the small rattle I used to get on windy nights.
• Easy tilting: Depress the slides, tilt inward, clean, and reset. No binding or scraping as long as I kept the tongues fully retracted while reseating the sash.
• Secure feel: The spring tension is firm enough that accidental brushes don’t disengage the latch, but not so stiff that you’re fighting it with one hand on a ladder.

They’re not security devices, nor are they childproofing solutions. They restrict the sash movement in its normal operation but should not be relied on to keep kids safe near windows. I treat them as convenience hardware, not safety hardware.

Aesthetics

The white finish looks clean and blends into typical vinyl window frames. The mold lines are there if you go looking, and they don’t have the premium sheen of higher-end parts, but once installed they visually disappear. If your trim or sash is an off-white or cream, you may see a subtle contrast.

Longevity Considerations

UV exposure and temperature swings are the long-term enemies of plastic. I can’t forecast multi-year performance from a few weeks, but based on the feel of the material and the spring action, I’d expect these to last several seasons under normal use. Periodically running a soft brush along the top rail to keep grit out of the slide track will help, and a tiny dab of silicone-safe lubricant under the slide can keep the action smooth if it ever starts to feel sandy.

Value

A four-pack covers two windows (both sashes) for many configurations, or gives you spares. For the time saved and the headache avoided, the value is easy to justify. The fact that screws aren’t included is a mild inconvenience, but reusing OEM screws is often preferable anyway.

Who They’re For

• DIY homeowners looking for a quick, low-cost fix on vinyl or composite single/double-hungs with 2-inch hole spacing.
• Property managers wanting a consistent, serviceable part across several units where exact OEMs are unavailable.
• Anyone prioritizing a clean look and reliable operation over premium materials.

Not ideal for:

• Historic wood windows with specialty hardware.
• Situations where the latch will be routinely abused or used as a grab handle.
• People seeking a security upgrade or a child-safety device—this isn’t that.

Tips Before You Order

• Measure twice: confirm 2-inch center spacing and check footprint coverage.
• Inventory screws: plan to reuse or buy #6 screws in appropriate lengths.
• Note handedness: you’ll receive two lefts and two rights; if you need more of one side, plan accordingly.
• Take a photo: snap a quick picture of your existing setup before removal to mirror alignment and orientation.

Recommendation

I recommend these Honoson tilt latches for straightforward, budget-friendly repairs on compatible vinyl or composite windows. They install quickly, operate smoothly, and visually blend into most frames. The plastic construction isn’t indestructible, and they shouldn’t be treated as security or child-safety hardware, but for restoring proper tilt-and-clean functionality and eliminating minor rattles, they’re exactly the right tool at the right price. If you need metal durability or have unusual spacing or historic hardware, look elsewhere; otherwise, this set is an easy win.