Honoson Window Latch Locks Window Parts and Hardware Tilt Latch Plastic Construction, Spring Loaded, 2 Inch Hole Center Spacing Sliding Lock Replacement

A broken tilt latch turns a simple window clean into a wrestling match. I picked up a set of the Honoson tilt latches to refresh several tired single- and double-hung vinyl windows in a rental and my own workshop. After a few weeks of installs and everyday use, here’s how they measured up.

What you get and what you don’t

This kit includes eight spring-loaded tilt latches in white plastic—four left-hand and four right-hand. The bodies are about 3 x 1 inches, and the screws are not included. The 2-inch hole center spacing is the important spec here; if your sash rail matches that spacing, you’re off to a good start.

The white finish blends well with most modern vinyl sashes. If your frames are almond, tan, or wood-stained, they’ll be noticeable but not offensive. The low-profile tabs are unobtrusive once installed.

Build and design

These are plastic, and that cuts both ways. On the plus side, they’re lightweight, won’t corrode, and they’re easy to work with if you need to finesse the fit. The spring action is firm with a positive snap that kept my sashes from rattling. The housings feel consistent piece-to-piece, and the sliders travel smoothly without gritty spots.

The downside is the same as any plastic latch: they won’t be as rugged as metal in the long term, especially on heavy wood sashes or in windows that get slammed. For typical vinyl double-hungs in bedrooms and living areas, the material choice is perfectly reasonable. For garage or shop windows that see abuse, I’d opt for metal hardware.

A quick note on handedness: you get equal numbers of left and right. Most of my failures were on one side, so I ended up with a few spares of the other. That’s not a deal-breaker, just plan accordingly if your breakage is lopsided.

Fit and compatibility

The critical dimension is the 2-inch screw spacing and the overall footprint (roughly 3 x 1 inches). On every sash that matched those numbers, these latches dropped right in. If your existing latch is a different spacing or your sash cutout is tighter, you’ll need a different part. I recommend pulling one old latch and measuring before you order; don’t guess off the window brand alone.

The latch tongues on these are a standard depth and engaged the frame pockets on all the windows I tested. If your frame pockets are unusually shallow or deeply recessed, check that detail as well.

Installation experience

Swapping these in is straightforward and takes a few minutes per side once you’ve done one. My basic process:

1. Unlock the window, raise it a few inches, press both latches to tilt the sash inward, then lift the sash out.
2. Remove the old latches. Most are held with two screws from the top rail.
3. Test-fit the new latch to confirm the footprint covers the old recess cleanly and the screw holes align.
4. Reuse the original screws if they’re in good condition, or match their size and length from your hardware bin. Avoid oversize screws—overtightening can crack plastic housings.
5. Install left and right latches, keeping them flush to the sash surface. Snug, don’t crank.
6. Reinstall the sash, then test tilt and lock operations several times.

Tips:
- Pre-start each screw by hand to avoid cross-threading into vinyl or wood.
- If the latch doesn’t spring fully, back the screws off a quarter turn; a slightly warped sash rail can pinch the housing.
- Mark the old latch orientation before removal so you don’t mix left and right positions.

From opening the first box to a finished window, I was under ten minutes. Once I had the rhythm, I did a whole room in less than an hour.

Everyday use

The action is confident. The tabs depress with moderate finger pressure and rebound reliably. On a couple of windows that used to rattle in wind, the new latches noticeably tightened things up. Tilt cleaning works as expected: both tabs in, sash swings in, and they re-engage when the sash is pushed back square into the frame.

Importantly, these are tilt latches, not primary security locks. They help position and retain the sash but shouldn’t be relied upon for childproofing or break-in resistance. If child safety is a concern, add a dedicated window safety device and keep hazardous items out of reach.

Durability and quality control

After multiple cycles over a few weeks, I didn’t see any spring fatigue or cracking. That said, plastic latches live or die by two factors: how carefully they’re installed and how gently the windows are used. Over-torqued screws can create stress fractures, and slamming sashes will shorten their life. On one older sash with a slight bow, I had to loosen a screw a hair to keep the mechanism from binding—an easy fix.

If your window frames are out of square or swollen, no latch will save you from alignment issues. Address binding sashes and swollen channels before installing new hardware; it will extend the life of these parts.

Where they shine—and where they don’t

Strong fit:
- Standard vinyl single- and double-hung windows with 2-inch hole spacing
- Whole-house maintenance when you need multiples at a reasonable price
- Quick repairs that restore tilt functionality and reduce rattling

Less ideal:
- Heavy wood sashes or high-traffic windows that get slammed
- Nonstandard spacing or narrow cutouts that won’t accept a 3 x 1 inch body
- Homes where color matching to almond or wood tones is critical

Value

Getting eight latches in one kit makes economic sense if you’re tackling several windows at once. The absence of screws is a mild inconvenience, but reusing original screws solved it for me. If yours are stripped or missing, it’s easy enough to match them at a hardware store—bring one along to confirm diameter and length.

The cost-per-window repair ended up far lower than calling a window tech or replacing full sashes. For landlords or homeowners maintaining older vinyl windows, this kit earns its keep quickly.

What I’d improve

• Optional color choices (almond/tan) would broaden appeal and reduce visual contrast on non-white frames.
• Including a small hardware pack would eliminate an extra trip for folks without spare screws.
• A slightly reinforced tongue or hybrid plastic with glass fiber could add durability on heavier sashes without a big price jump.

Practical checks before you buy

• Measure hole spacing: center-to-center should be 2 inches.
• Confirm body footprint: roughly 3 x 1 inches; ensure your sash recess can accept that.
• Inspect frame latch pockets: make sure the latch tongue will reach and seat.
• Count handedness: you’ll get equal left and right—verify how many of each you actually need.
• Plan for screws: reuse originals or have suitable replacements ready.

Recommendation

I recommend the Honoson tilt latches for anyone maintaining standard vinyl single- or double-hung windows that match the 2-inch screw spacing. They install quickly, restore tilt function cleanly, and offer a tidy, low-profile look at a sensible price. The spring action is consistent, and the set of eight makes whole-room or whole-house refreshes efficient.

Just keep expectations in line with the material: these are plastic latches, not heavy-duty hardware. If your sashes are particularly heavy or abused, or if you need a color other than white, consider alternatives. For the majority of everyday residential windows, though, these latches are a practical, cost-effective fix that gets the job done with minimal fuss.