DeWalt 4-1/2" x 1/4" x 5/8"-11 Aluminum Grinding Wheel

Why I reached for this wheel

Aluminum can make a fool of the wrong grinding wheel. It loads up, smears, and turns a once‑aggressive disc into a skating puck in minutes. I’ve been through enough glazed wheels to know better, so I gave the DeWalt aluminum grinding wheel a proper workout on 6061 plate, a cast housing, and a few odd jobs in brass. It’s a Type 27, 4‑1/2 inch wheel with a 1/4 inch thickness and a 5/8‑11 arbor, built around an aluminum oxide abrasive and a soft resinoid bond. On paper, that’s the formula you want for non‑ferrous: a coarse 30 grit that sheds just enough to stay open, with glass reinforcement for safety. In practice, it behaved exactly how a purpose‑built non‑ferrous wheel should.

Build and specs that matter

• Size and fit: 4‑1/2 inch diameter, 1/4 inch thick, 5/8‑11 threaded arbor, Type 27 (depressed center).
• Abrasive system: Aluminum oxide, resinoid bond, hardness code N (a forgiving, on‑the‑softer side wheel).
• Rating: Up to 13,300 RPM (so it’s comfortably within spec for most 4‑1/2 inch grinders running around 10–12K).
• Safety: Three layers of glass reinforcement.

The 1/4 inch thickness feels right for heavy stock removal and general grinding, especially when you want stability at a 15–30 degree angle. It’s not a finishing disc, and it doesn’t pretend to be one—this is for removing material, preparing welds, knocking back proud beads, and cleaning up rough castings.

Cutting behavior on aluminum

The standout trait is how well it resists loading. I ran it dry on 6061 T6 plate to bevel edges for welding and to erase some gouges near a joint. With light to moderate pressure and a 20‑ish degree angle, the wheel stayed open without needing frequent dressing or wax. Swarf came off as bright chips instead of gray paste—what you want to see when the bond is releasing grains appropriately. Even during a long pass, it didn’t glaze; if anything, it cut better than many “universal” wheels that claim non‑ferrous compatibility.

On a rough cast aluminum housing, I did add a light swipe of stick lube out of habit. The wheel didn’t require it to keep from gumming, but the wax extended cutting time between passes on the gummier sections. If you’re grinding castings with inclusions or unknown alloy mixes, a hint of wax is still worth having nearby.

Control, feel, and heat

This wheel is appropriately aggressive for its 30 grit rating. It removes stock quickly, but I never felt like it ran away from me or chattered. The depressed center and thickness give it a planted feel, and the balance is good—no odd vibration or harmonic spikes at speed. With normal pressure, heat stayed manageable; aluminum’s thermal conductivity helps, but a loading wheel will still cook the surface. Here, the soft bond kept the cutting faces fresh, so I saw fewer smeared spots and less “smut” buildup than with general‑purpose wheels.

For best results:
- Keep a consistent, shallow angle (15–25 degrees) rather than trying to grind flat.
- Use moderate pressure and let the grit do the work; pressing hard only encourages smearing.
- Dress lightly if you do notice a shiny glazed area forming—it means the wheel needs to shed a bit.

Durability and the soft‑bond trade‑off

Soft bonds are a balancing act: they sacrifice some lifespan to keep the wheel from loading. That trade‑off is exactly why this wheel works on aluminum. Compared to a hard‑bond steel wheel, I did go through it faster—no surprise there. But the time it saved by staying sharp easily paid for itself. I didn’t spend time fighting a glazed disc, and I wasn’t stopping every minute to clear aluminum buildup. If you’re expecting the service life of a hard 36G steel wheel on plate, you’ll be disappointed; if you want consistent cut and less hassle on non‑ferrous, this is the correct choice.

Compatibility and clearance

This wheel uses a 5/8‑11 threaded arbor, which is standard on many North American 4‑1/2 inch grinders. Because it’s a hub‑style fit, check that your guard allows adequate clearance for the depressed center and hub thickness. On one of my grinders with a slightly bulky guard lip, I had to adjust the guard position to avoid rubbing. Don’t run without a guard; the three glass reinforcement layers improve safety, but proper guarding is non‑negotiable.

If your grinder expects a 7/8 inch open‑hole wheel with a flange, make sure you’re not mixing standards—use the correct wheel type for your spindle.

Use cases where it shines

• Beveling aluminum plate edges for weld prep.
• Removing proud fillets and cleaning up TIG/MIG starts and stops.
• Truing rough castings or knocking down parting lines.
• Shaping brackets and tabs in 6061/5052 where a flap disc would be too slow.

It also works on other soft metals—brass, copper, and some bronzes—though the 30 grit is quite coarse. If you’re chasing appearance on non‑aluminum parts, follow up with a finer flap wheel. For tight corners or delicate edges, a thinner disc or a 60–80 grit flap disc will give you more control.

What it’s not for

• Finishing or cosmetic blending. It leaves a coarse scratch pattern, as it should.
• Cutting. This is a 1/4 inch grinding wheel, not a cut‑off disc.
• Steel work. Keep aluminum and steel wheels separate to avoid contamination, especially if you weld. Using a wheel that’s seen steel on aluminum can embed particles and create issues later.

Safety and housekeeping

Grinding non‑ferrous metals generates fine dust and chips. Aluminum dust is combustible; use proper PPE, keep ignition sources in check, and don’t rely on a woodshop vac to collect metal dust. A spark shroud and a metal‑rated extractor help, and a quick degrease of the work surface reduces the gummy film that traps fines. As always, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and a respirator are smart practice.

Value and buying considerations

This wheel hits a sweet spot for shops that regularly work in aluminum. The pack size makes sense for production or maintenance teams, and the consistency from wheel to wheel was good in my experience—same balance, same feel, no surprise hardness variation. If you’re a hobbyist who only occasionally needs to grind aluminum, you might balk at stocking multiples, but having at least one dedicated non‑ferrous wheel on the shelf is worth it the instant a general‑purpose disc starts to smear.

Final thoughts

DeWalt’s aluminum grinding wheel does the one thing that matters most on non‑ferrous: it stays open and keeps cutting. The soft bond and coarse 30 grit make it efficient without turning into a gummy mess, and the Type 27 profile gives you a stable, controllable platform for real material removal. You’ll go through it faster than a hard‑bond steel wheel—that’s by design—but the consistent performance and reduced fuss easily outweigh the extra wear.

Recommendation: I recommend this wheel if you do any meaningful amount of aluminum grinding. It resists loading, removes material quickly, and feels predictable on the grinder. Just be mindful of guard clearance with the threaded hub, keep it dedicated to non‑ferrous work, and pair it with a flap disc for finishing. For aluminum prep, cleanup, and shaping, it’s the right tool for the job.