Lareko Waterproof Peel and Stick Floor Tile, 36 Pack 54 Sq.Ft（NO Sticky Residue Left） Wood Plank Vinyl Tile Stickers, Self-Adhesive DIY Flooring Tiles for Bedroom, Living Room, Bathroom （36" x 6"，Dustgray）

Why I tried these peel-and-stick planks

I’m a big believer in projects you can knock out in an afternoon with a knife, a straightedge, and a little patience. I tested the Lareko peel-and-stick planks in a small bathroom and a pantry, both over existing, intact flooring. I wanted to see if a thin, budget-friendly vinyl could deliver a visual refresh without the hassle of power tools or the commitment of fully glued LVP.

Short version: they’re impressively easy to install, forgiving to work with, and transform a room’s look quickly. They’re also very thin, which is both their superpower and their limitation.

What you’re getting

• Format: 36-inch by 6-inch planks
• Thickness: 0.6 mm
• Coverage: 36 planks cover 54 sq ft
• Adhesive: WPU pressure-sensitive backing (peel and stick)
• Surface: PVC with a wood-look print, labeled “Dustgray”
• Rated as waterproof, wear-resistant, heat-resistant, and non-slip

The Dustgray shade reads as a cool, neutral gray in real life—less blue than some product photos suggest. Color consistency plank-to-plank was solid in my boxes, which matters if you’re buying multiple sets over time.

Installation: approachable even for first-timers

I prepped the floors by vacuuming, mopping, and letting them dry completely. Any peel-and-stick product lives or dies by its substrate: flat, clean, and dry is the rule. Because these planks are only 0.6 mm thick, expect texture to telegraph. On my bathroom floor, faint grout lines from the old sheet vinyl showed through at raking light. If your existing floor has bold texture or deep grout lines, either skim-coat or set your expectations.

Layout is straightforward. I chalked a reference line, then started with a staggered pattern (randomizing end joints by at least 6 inches). The adhesive is a sweet spot: tacky enough to grab, yet you can lift and reposition a plank during installation without shredding the backing. Pressing edges together carefully prevents gaps; if you overlap slightly, the thinness makes it mostly invisible, but it’s cleaner to butt the edges and keep your seams straight.

Cutting is easy with a utility knife and a metal straightedge—score, snap, and trim the back. Scissors work for small notches, though a knife yields cleaner edges. Around the toilet flange and door trim, I made templates from painter’s tape and transferred those to a plank. If you’re new to cutouts, making a quick paper or tape template saves wasted planks.

I rolled the finished floor with a hand roller. Even a paint roller wrapped in a towel helps; pressure improves bond. I also used gentle heat (a hair dryer) to soften the adhesive when coaxing a plank to settle over a slight depression—very handy along thresholds or over minor imperfections.

A few notes:
- There were small red stickers on some planks that weren’t explained. I removed them; they appear to be packing markers.
- The backing has no printed grid. Mark your own cut lines with a square to keep everything true.
- Doors cleared fine—no trimming required—because the material is so thin.

Fit and finish

Visually, the wood pattern is convincing at a glance and cohesive across the floor. The matte finish reads clean and modern, and the Dustgray tone pairs easily with white trim and brushed nickel hardware. Seams are discreet if you take time to align the edges. Because the planks are thin, they lay close to the subfloor and don’t create a proud edge at transitions.

Two caveats:
- Texture telegraphing is real. If your existing floor has noticeable patterning, you may see it.
- The material’s thinness minimizes trip edges but also reduces the sense of “plank” substance compared to thicker LVP.

Adhesion and removability

The WPU pressure-sensitive adhesive bites more firmly after 24 hours. On clean, dry vinyl, adhesion was strong; on a painted pantry floor (lightly sanded), also solid. I tested removability on an offcut pressed to a painted board for a week. It peeled away without leaving glue clumps or tearing paint, though that will vary by paint quality and surface prep. Over sealed surfaces or older vinyl, it’s likely to come up cleanly; over raw porous substrates, expect more resistance.

Waterproof and slip resistance

I spilled water near the tub and let it sit briefly; puddles didn’t penetrate seams during casual use, and the surface stayed grippy underfoot. This is “waterproof” in the sense that the material doesn’t absorb water and daily splashes aren’t an issue. It’s not a watertight floating floor—seams aren’t sealed—so don’t treat it like a shower pan. Wipe standing water promptly and consider a bead of caulk at tub edges if you’re splash-prone.

Durability and wear

After a few weeks, the bathroom shows no lifting at corners and cleans easily with a damp microfiber mop. The pantry—shoes on, light traffic—looks the same as install day. That said, at 0.6 mm, this is closer to a decorative surface than a heavy-duty plank. I wouldn’t choose it for a busy mudroom, a dog-run kitchen, or anywhere that sees grit and rolling loads. For bedrooms, offices, guest rooms, and low-to-moderate traffic spaces, it’s a sensible upgrade. If you need multi-year resilience in high-traffic zones, a thicker click-LVP is the safer bet.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Shines:
- Quick refreshes: rentals, guest rooms, playrooms, offices, RVs
- Small bathrooms and closets where door trimming is a concern
- Temporary or semi-permanent installs where removability matters
- Accent wall or backsplash applications (it sticks well to smooth, painted drywall)

Less ideal:
- High-traffic entries or kitchens with pets and sand
- Subfloors with heavy texture or unevenness
- Wet rooms that see chronic standing water

Tips for best results

• Prep painstakingly: vacuum, damp mop, and fully dry. Degrease kitchens.
• Address telegraphing: skim shallow grout lines if you want a glass-smooth finish.
• Acclimate planks in-room for 24 hours.
• Snap a square starting line; stagger end joints by 6 inches or more.
• Dry-fit tricky cuts; use tape or paper templates for door trim and toilet bases.
• Roll the floor after install to seat the adhesive.
• Use gentle heat to relax planks over slight irregularities.
• Remove baseboards first or plan to cover edges with quarter-round for a clean perimeter.
• Order enough at once to avoid mix-ups and verify piece counts on arrival.

The drawbacks

• Thin construction: great for clearances and forgiving overlaps, but not built for punishment.
• No printed grid on the backing and no detailed instructions; first-time installers may wish for more guidance.
• Color naming can be confusing compared to photos; Dustgray leans neutral gray in person.
• Because it’s peel-and-stick, substrate prep is everything—skimp there and you’ll see imperfections.

Value

Cost-per-square-foot is competitive, and the tooling is minimal—no saws, no adhesives, just a knife and a straightedge. For spaces where you want a clean look without a remodel’s overhead, the value equation is strong. If you factor in longevity for heavy-use rooms, the calculus shifts toward thicker floating LVP.

Recommendation

I recommend the Lareko peel-and-stick planks for quick, low-commitment upgrades in low-to-moderate traffic areas where ease of installation, removability, and thin profile are priorities. They install fast, look cohesive, and handle everyday splashes without drama. Just be realistic about the substrate and intended use: prep thoroughly, avoid heavy-textured floors unless you’re willing to skim, and steer high-wear rooms toward more robust flooring. For renters, DIYers tackling small baths or bedrooms, and anyone refreshing a space on a budget, these planks are a practical, good-looking choice.