DeWalt 4" 6 TPI T-Shank Fast Cut Wood Cutting Jig Saw Blade

Why I keep a fast-cut jigsaw blade in the kit

I reach for a fast-cut jigsaw blade when the job calls for moving quickly through framing lumber, rough openings, or utility cuts where speed matters more than a pristine edge. This DeWalt fast-cut jigsaw blade fits that role nicely. It’s a coarse-tooth, wood‑focused T‑shank blade with precision-ground teeth and deep gullets, and it’s sold in a simple two‑pack. After putting it through plenty of softwood, some hardwood, and a mix of shop and jobsite tasks, here’s how it actually behaves.

Setup and compatibility

The T‑shank locks cleanly in modern DeWalt and Bosch saws—no fussing to seat it, no play once locked. That secure interface matters with an aggressive tooth profile; any slop translates into chatter and crooked cuts. If you’re coming from older U‑shank blades or budget blades with inconsistent shanks, you’ll appreciate the consistent engagement here.

The blade body is high-carbon steel. That’s the standard choice for wood-cutting jigsaw blades focused on speed: it’s tough, easy to grind to a sharp edge, and it runs cooler when chip evacuation is good. You’re not buying bi‑metal longevity here, and that’s fine for the intended work.

Cutting speed and control

This is a “get it done now” blade. In 2x pine and fir, it chews through on an orbital setting without bogging or loading up. The large, precision‑ground teeth bite immediately; paired with the deep gullets, chips clear quickly and the saw doesn’t labor. On a typical rough opening cut through a doubled 2x header, I can follow a line confidently with a steady feed—no need to baby it. The cut pace is closer to a compact reciprocating saw than a finish-oriented jigsaw blade, which is exactly the point.

Control is better than you’d expect for something this aggressive. Precision-ground teeth track straighter than stamped ones, and the set is even across the length, so you don’t get the zig‑zag tendency you sometimes see with bargain fast‑cut blades. That said, if you lean on the saw in thicker stock or try to muscle around tight curves, any coarse jigsaw blade will deflect. Keep the shoe flat, use the fence or a straightedge when you need it, and let the teeth do the work.

Cut quality and tear‑out

You don’t buy a coarse blade for a cabinet‑ready edge. Still, the grind on these teeth keeps the surface surprisingly even for how quickly they cut. In construction plywood and OSB, the top face will show some tear‑out, as it does with most up‑cutting jigsaw blades. Flip the work so the good face is down, dial back the orbital action a notch, and you’ll get a serviceable edge for a paint-grade piece or a hidden surface. On spruce and pine 2x, edges are “utility clean”—no ragged fibers hanging off, but not fine‑sanded either.

If you want a cleaner edge in veneered plywood or melamine, move to a higher‑TPI or down‑cut blade. This DeWalt shines where cleanliness is a bonus, not the goal.

Curves, plunge cuts, and tight spaces

• Curves: The blade has enough stiffness to hold a line on gentle arcs, but the tooth set and kerf width limit how tight you can turn without binding. For scroll‑work or sharp radius corners, swap to a narrow scrolling blade.
• Plunge cuts: The aggressive tooth geometry bites well for plunge starts in softwood. I prefer drilling a starter hole in plywood to avoid initial splintering, but the blade will plunge cleanly if you ease it in and keep the shoe flat.
• Tight spaces: The overall length is well matched to common tasks. You can get into a stud bay or cut out drywall and sheathing without excess blade whipping around, but there’s still enough length to handle full‑thickness 2x stock comfortably.

Performance across materials

• Softwood framing (pine/fir): Excellent. Fast, controllable, and the edge is clean enough for construction.
• Construction plywood/OSB: Good for rough cuts, especially with the good face down. Expect chip-out on the top if you rush with high orbital.
• Hardwood (oak/maple): Usable for short cuts, but feed more gently. High-carbon steel dulls faster in abrasive hardwoods than bi‑metal. Keep the saw speed up and the feed moderate to avoid heat and burn marks.
• Pressure-treated lumber: Works fine, just clean the blade afterward. PT chemicals and resin build-up can dull teeth faster if you let pitch accumulate.

Avoid nails and screws. Like any HCS wood blade, hitting metal will round the teeth quickly. If you expect hidden fasteners, switch to a bi‑metal demolition-style jigsaw blade.

Vibration, heat, and chip clearing

Deep gullets really do their job here. Chips clear instead of packing in the kerf, so the blade runs cooler and the saw doesn’t surge. On orbital 2–3, you’ll feel more vibration than with a fine blade, but clamping the workpiece and keeping the shoe firmly planted keeps it well controlled. I didn’t see blueing or obvious temper loss after extended cutting in 2x stock. When I noticed performance starting to drop, a quick pitch cleaning brought it back, which suggests dulling wasn’t the issue—resin was.

Blade life

For a coarse HCS blade, the lifespan is better than expected. I used one blade through several window rough‑openings, trimming plates and sheathing, plus a handful of shop cuts in spruce and plywood. It stayed sharp enough to keep its “fast” character. In hardwoods, edge life drops faster—as you’d anticipate—but still respectable for the class. If your week is packed with hardwood scribing or you’re working reclaimed material, keep a spare or move to bi‑metal. For typical DIY and framing tasks, a two‑pack carries you a long way.

Accuracy and drift

Jigsaws are notorious for blade drift in thick stock. This blade resists that tendency better than many coarse options because of the even tooth set and body stiffness, but technique matters more than the blade. Use orbital action for speed in straight lines; dial it back for curves and depth. Keep feed pressure moderate to avoid bending the blade in the kerf. For long straight rips in 2x, a straightedge guide helps a lot.

Practical tips for best results

• Put the finished face down to minimize visible tear‑out.
• Use orbital action for speed; reduce it for cleaner edges or curves.
• Don’t force the cut—steady feed avoids deflection and keeps the cut square.
• Clean resin from the blade with a pitch remover to keep it cutting fast.
• Switch blades for tight radii or fine finishes; no single blade does it all.

What could be better

You trade finish quality for speed, and that’s by design. A slightly narrower version would open up tighter curves, but that would also reduce tracking stability. High-carbon steel keeps costs down and edges razor sharp out of the box, but it won’t tolerate accidental metal contact. Those aren’t flaws so much as the realities of a fast‑cut wood blade.

Value

Sold as a two‑pack, the cost per cut is easy to justify. You get a robust, coarse, precision‑ground tooth profile with reliable T‑shank fitment and a blade that holds its edge well in the materials it’s meant for. If you need one blade to do everything, this isn’t it. If you need the right blade for rough carpentry and quick cuts in wood, it earns its spot.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt fast‑cut jigsaw blade for anyone doing framing, rough carpentry, remodeling, or general shop work where speed is the priority and edges don’t need to be furniture‑grade. It locks solidly in modern saws, clears chips well, tracks straighter than most coarse blades, and holds up admirably in softwoods and construction sheet goods. Pair it with smarter technique—face down, appropriate orbital settings, and a steady feed—and you’ll get fast, reliable cuts with minimal fuss. If your work leans heavily toward fine finishes, veneers, or hardwoods, keep a higher‑TPI or down‑cut blade alongside it. For the tasks it’s built for, this one’s a dependable go‑to.