DeWalt 2X Long Life Hole Saws

Why I reached for this hole saw

I spent the past few weeks opening holes in studs for plumbing, boring through cabinets for grommets, and punching clean circles in thin steel electrical boxes. For all of that, I ran a DeWalt hole saw from the brand’s “long life” bi‑metal line in a handful of diameters. The promise is simple: a deeper cup to cut 2-by material in one pass, tooth geometry tuned for speed and life, and better plug ejection. Here’s how it actually behaved on the job.

Build and design

This is a classic bi‑metal hole saw with a cobalt-alloyed tooth edge. The cup is deeper than standard, and the body has staggered side slots that line up with the tooth gullets. The tooth layout is a double-tooth pattern, which puts pairs of teeth close together before the next skip. In hand, the cup feels rigid enough for wood and common metals without being overly heavy, and the side slots are generous without overly compromising the shell.

A few design notes that matter in day-to-day use:
- The deeper cup is genuinely helpful on 2-by material and for getting through stacked laminates.
- The double-tooth pattern reduces chatter on a handheld drill and seems to balance bite with control.
- Staggered slots give you more angles to pry out a plug compared to the single-slot cups I’ve used for years.

One practical detail: these are sold individually and ship without an arbor. You’ll need a 1/2-20 threaded arbor with a pilot bit. DeWalt’s quick-change arbors work fine, as do most universal 1/2-20 options.

Setup and compatibility

I ran the saws on a corded 1/2-inch drill with a side handle for the larger sizes and a mid-torque cordless drill for anything 2 inches and under. For metals, I used cutting fluid and kept speed down. In a drill press, the saws track exceptionally well; handheld, they’re as true as your arbor and technique.

A tip that helped:
- Snug the arbor tight and make sure the pilot bit is sharp and properly protruding. Most wobble I see with hole saws starts at the arbor connection, not the cup.

Performance in wood

In SPF 2-by lumber, the deep-cut design does exactly what it claims: one pass, clean exit, no second bite needed. With a 2‑1/8-inch saw, I could cut door lock bores in poplar and pine without burning or excessive tearout. The tooth geometry clears chips well; I rarely had to “peck” the hole to clear dust unless I was cutting resin-heavy lumber.

In plywood and MDF, the cut quality is good to very good. On MDF especially, the double-tooth pattern leaves a uniform kerf without the fuzz and edge crumbling I sometimes see with coarser-pitch cups. Backing the work helps avoid blowout on the exit, as always. In hardwoods, it’s steady if you respect speed—go slower than you think. The saw doesn’t feel grabby, which I attribute to the tooth tracking and the stiffness of the shell.

Performance in metal and plastics

Bi-metal is the right choice for mixed trade work, and the cobalt content pays off when heat builds. In 16–18 gauge mild steel (electrical boxes and studs), I ran at low speed with cutting fluid and got predictable, round holes with minimal burring. The saw holds an edge better than budget bi-metal cups I’ve used; where cheap cups glaze after a handful of cuts, this one stayed biting.

On stainless (thin sink decks and appliance panels), slow speed and lube are non-negotiable. The saw will do it, but push too hard and you’ll blue the teeth. In copper and aluminum, chip evacuation is excellent, and the finish is clean enough that a quick deburr is all you need. For PVC and acrylic, it scoops chips and rarely melts the edge if you keep the speed moderate.

If you routinely hit screws, nails, or cement board, jump to a carbide-tooth hole saw. This bi‑metal saw will handle incidental nails, but repeated impacts will shorten its life.

Plug ejection and chip clearing

Deep cups can trap plugs. The staggered slots here genuinely help. In wood, most plugs twist out by hand after a half-turn backward. When they do stick, the opposing slot lets you drive a thin pry tool to split the plug without chewing up the tooth line. In metals, the slots give you a clear path to poke out the slug with a drift. I still had the odd stubborn plug in resinous softwood, but overall plug management is better than single-slot cups like older Lenox and Milwaukee models I’ve used.

A small thing that adds up: the gullets carry chips up and out efficiently, so you spend less time pecking the hole in wood and plastics.

Durability and heat management

Across a few dozen holes in wood and a dozen in mild steel, the teeth are still sharp enough to start cleanly without skating. The cobalt alloy edge resists temper loss better than generic bi‑metal, but you still need to manage heat:
- Keep RPM low in metal (think low hundreds, not thousands).
- Use cutting fluid on steel and stainless.
- Let the saw clear chips; don’t bury it at full throttle.

Compared to my baseline (an earlier DeWalt bi-metal cup and a budget import), this saw lasts longer before the teeth round over. I can’t quantify the “2X” claim, but it’s comfortably in the top tier for longevity among non-carbide hole saws I’ve owned.

Size options and real-world tasks

The size range covers practically everything I need:
- Sub‑1 inch for conduit knockouts and hardware.
- 1‑3/8 to 2‑1/8 inch for locks, deadbolts, and plumbing penetrations.
- 2‑1/2 to 4‑1/2 inch for ducting, recessed lights, and large grommets.
- Up to 6 inches for ventilation; use a drill with a side handle and brace your stance.

Being able to buy a single cup rather than a kit is handy when you only need one diameter. Just be sure your arbor matches the 1/2‑20 thread.

Limitations and quirks

• No arbor in the package. Factor that into cost and setup time.
• Deep cups are great for 2-bys but can be a liability in tight cavities where clearance behind the work is limited.
• Aggressive tooth geometry can grab on thin sheet if you go too fast or angle the drill. Start square, use a pilot, and let the teeth nibble.
• Bi‑metal won’t touch tile, masonry, or fiber cement efficiently. Wrong tool for the job—use diamond or carbide.

Safety and technique tips that improved results

• Use a drill with a side handle for anything over 2 inches; bind-ups happen.
• Back the workpiece to reduce blowout and to keep the pilot bit from wandering.
• Mark your center cleanly; a sharp awl or a center punch helps the pilot bite.
• For metals, slow RPM, steady pressure, and cutting fluid are the difference between sharp teeth and blue scrap.

The bottom line

This DeWalt hole saw combines a smart deep-cut design with tooth geometry that feels dialed for real use: it runs true, cuts at a good pace, and sheds chips and plugs better than many standard cups. The cobalt-alloy edge holds up under heat if you do your part with speed and lubrication. It’s not a universal solution—carbide still wins for abrasive materials and frequent nail strikes, and you’ll need to supply your own arbor—but as a general-purpose bi‑metal cup for wood, plastics, and common metals, it’s a strong performer.

Recommendation: I recommend it for carpenters, electricians, plumbers, and DIYers who need reliable, individual-size hole saws that handle 2-by wood in one pass and won’t fold under occasional metal work. The cut quality, plug ejection, and durability justify the pick. If your work leans heavily into abrasive materials or nail-embedded framing, step up to carbide; otherwise, this is an easy tool to keep in the bag.