DeWalt 11/32" Pilot Point drill bit

A pilot-point bit that earns its keep

I reach for an 11/32 bit more often than I expected—bolt clearance holes, tubing work, jigs, and the odd countersink starter. After a few months of using DeWalt’s 11/32 pilot-point bit across wood, mild steel, and plastics, I’ve formed a clear impression: it’s a practical, accuracy-first bit that excels in a handheld drill and holds up well with the right technique.

What stands out

The pilot-point tip is the headline feature here, and it’s not just marketing. The tip truly starts on contact, which means I can place holes precisely without a center punch in many situations. It reduces that first skitter across metal or hardwood, and it resists grabbing at breakthrough more than a standard 118° twist bit. Pair that with DeWalt’s “No-Spin” shank—designed to resist slipping in the chuck—and you get a bit that plays especially well with handheld drills.

The body has a tapered web for extra durability, and size markings are stamped above the shank so they don’t wear away in the chuck jaws. The material is high-speed steel (HSS), so it’s a versatile general-purpose choice, not a specialty alloy.

In the shop: setup and feel

The bit locks up solidly in both keyed and keyless chucks. The no-spin shank does its job—I didn’t experience chuck slip even when leaning on the drill to finish a hole in thick stock. At 11/32, the shank is 1/4-inch, so it’ll fit any drill with at least a 1/4-inch chuck (most are 3/8 or 1/2). Overall length is 4-3/4 inches with a working length a touch over 3-3/8 inches, which is plenty for most framing, jig work, and tube drilling.

Balance is good, runout is minimal on my drill press, and chip evacuation is what I expect from a conventional twist-flute HSS bit—no surprises there.

Performance in metal

I tested on:

• 1/8-inch wall mild-steel tubing
• 1/4-inch mild steel plate
• 6061 aluminum

In mild steel, the pilot-point tip saved time. Holes started exactly where I placed them, even with a handheld drill, and I saw less wandering than with a standard 118° tip. The bit cut cleanly at moderate pressure with cutting oil. Breakthrough was predictable—the tip transitions to the full-diameter lips smoothly, so I didn’t experience the sudden grab that can spin your wrist.

Speed matters. For an 11/32 HSS bit in mild steel, slow your drill: roughly 300–600 RPM is a good target, with steady feed and lubrication. In aluminum, higher speeds (around 1500 RPM) and a light oil or wax work well. On a drill press, I got very round holes with a small burr that cleaned up with a quick pass of a deburring tool. In a handheld drill, burrs were slightly heavier in thicker steel, but nothing unusual.

Is it a cobalt bit for stainless or hardened alloys? No. It will cut some stainless with patience and good cooling, but this isn’t the right tool for daily stainless work. For most shop steel, though, it pulls its weight.

Performance in wood and plastic

In hardwood (white oak and maple), the pilot point acts like a brad-point’s more forgiving cousin. Entry holes are clean, and I needed less clamping and layout fuss because the tip bites immediately. Tear-out on exit was modest; backing the workpiece eliminates that last bit of fuzz. In construction lumber and plywood, the bit tracks straight and clears chips well.

In PVC and ABS, speed back a little and don’t bear down. The bit cuts crisply and avoids the “melt and smear” you get from overly aggressive RPMs. The pilot point keeps the hole from wandering on rounded pipe surfaces.

Accuracy and breakout

The main reason I like this bit is repeatable placement, especially on tubing and curved surfaces. I drilled a dozen 11/32 holes around round steel tube with a handheld drill; each started where I marked them with a fine punch and finished on-size. The pilot point reduces lock-up at breakthrough, which is helpful in thin wall materials where a standard tip can snag and oval the hole.

On a drill press with a proper vise, a conventional split-point cobalt bit will still feel faster in steel. But in a hand drill, this pilot-point design is easier to control and ultimately yields better-looking holes.

Durability and sharpening

Durability is solid for HSS. The tapered web seems to help—no flexing or audible chatter beyond what you’d expect when pushing too fast. Using cutting oil in metal makes a noticeable difference in edge life. After a couple dozen holes in mild steel and a stack of wood/plastic jobs, the cutting edges still feel keen by fingernail test and still start cleanly.

One caveat: pilot-point tips are not as straightforward to sharpen at home as standard 118° bits. You can touch up the main lips on a grinder or a sharpener jig, but recreating the pilot geometry precisely takes skill and the right gear. If you rely on resharpening for longevity, factor that in. At this price point, many users will simply replace it when it dulls.

Ease of identification

A small but welcome touch: the size marking sits above the shank area, so it stays readable after repeated chucking. In a crowded bit index, that saves time.

Where it fits

• Handheld drilling where accuracy matters (steel tube, angle, hardwood face frames)
• General workshop use across wood, mild steel, and plastics
• Occasional drill-press work where a clean start is preferable to maximum feed rate

I wouldn’t choose it for daily production in stainless, nor for masonry (obviously), and in fine woodworking where ultra-clean holes are paramount, a dedicated brad-point may leave an even tidier exit. For metal-only heavy use, an M35 cobalt split-point will edge it out on longevity in hard materials.

Tips for best results

• Steel: run 300–600 RPM, use cutting oil, and keep steady feed pressure. Let the pilot point set the path—don’t side-load.
• Aluminum: around 1000–1800 RPM with a drop of oil or wax; clear chips to avoid recutting.
• Wood: moderate to high speed, back the exit face to prevent tear-out on clean work.
• Plastics: dial back the RPM and pressure to avoid melting; peck drill to clear chips.
• Safety: wear safety goggles at minimum; gloves help when handling sharp swarf.

Warranty and value

It’s a single HSS bit with a 30-day money-back guarantee. Nothing flashy there, but fair. The real value is in the time you save not chasing a wandering hole and the reduced risk of wrist-twisting grab on breakthrough—especially if you’re drilling a lot with a handheld driver.

The drawbacks

• Not easy to sharpen precisely at home due to the pilot geometry.
• HSS limits longevity in abrasive or hard alloys; cobalt or carbide are better fits for those.
• In a drill press, a split-point cobalt bit may drill faster in steel at the same diameter.

None of these are deal-breakers for general-purpose shop and onsite work, but they’re worth knowing.

Bottom line

This DeWalt pilot-point bit earns a spot in my regular rotation because it solves two everyday problems: starting accuracy and breakthrough control. In a handheld drill, it’s particularly confidence-inspiring—holes land where I want them, and the bit stays put in the chuck. It handles wood, mild steel, and plastics capably, provided you match speed and use lubrication where appropriate. While it’s not the champion for hardened metals and it isn’t a breeze to resharpen, its combination of accuracy, durability, and ease of use makes it a smart, dependable choice for most shop and jobsite tasks.

Recommendation: I recommend this bit for anyone who does a mix of wood and light-to-medium metalwork, especially with a handheld drill. The pilot-point tip improves placement and reduces hang-ups, the no-spin shank keeps the bit locked, and the HSS construction holds up well when used with sensible speeds and lubrication. If your work leans heavily on stainless or you insist on sharpening every bit yourself, look to cobalt or a different geometry. For everyday accuracy and clean results, this one’s an easy yes.