DeWalt OSC PLUNGEPOINT 3-Sided Combo (2 PK)

I keep a small drawer of oscillating blades sorted by job, and this two-piece DeWalt combo has been living near the front for a while. It’s a straightforward pairing: a 1-1/4 in plunge blade for controlled entry cuts and a 3-sided blade purpose-built for fast drywall openings and the occasional wood-with-nails encounter. No gimmicks—just two complementary profiles that cover a lot of everyday remodeling tasks.

What’s in the set

You get:
- A 1-1/4 in plunge blade with DeWalt’s PlungePoint tip intended to start cuts cleanly and accurately.
- A 3-sided bi-metal blade with a 2 1/8 in (54 mm) cutting width sized for single-gang electrical box openings.

I used the set on a DeWalt oscillating multi-tool. The fit was snug and true, with no slop or chatter. There’s no case or extras—just the two blades.

Design and build

The plunge blade has a tapered, spear-like tip. That geometry matters; a good plunge blade should “stick” and then track where you point it rather than skitter across the surface. This one does that well. The teeth are fine enough to leave a neat kerf in trim but still aggressive enough to make progress in framing lumber. DeWalt applies a high-performance coating on this blade that’s intended to extend life when you hit nails in wood. The manufacturer markets up to 7x life versus a previous-generation blade in nail-embedded wood. Claims like that are always context-heavy—tool, technique, how many nails, how hard—so I approached it with healthy skepticism.

The 3-sided blade is the attention-getter. Instead of a narrow profile, you get a rectangular cutting edge that matches the width of common single-gang boxes. It’s bi-metal, so it’s meant to shrug off occasional metal contact without turning into a butter knife. The profile lets you plunge, rock the tool, and outline a box quickly, keeping the sides straight with the blade’s edges as your guide.

On the wall: drywall speed and accuracy

For drywall, the 3-sided blade is a time saver. I’ve cut countless box openings with narrow plunge blades, and you either overcut the corners or spend time chiseling them square. With this blade, the width does the layout for you, and the top and bottom edges act like a fence to keep your line straight. It plunges cleanly with minimal surface tear-out and little edge crumble. Dust is still dust—an oscillating tool is never “clean”—but because the blade’s path is well defined, you spend less time fussing and more time cutting.

A few tips that pair well with this blade:
- Light scoring with a utility knife helps keep paper burrs down.
- Plunge at a slight angle, then level off to reduce blowout as you break through.
- If you’re cutting over a stud bay with insulation, a vac hose held nearby keeps the cavity from burping dust back at you.

In wood: controlled plunges and nail surprises

The 1-1/4 in plunge blade is the kind of generalist I reach for constantly—registering vents, shaving door jambs for flooring, notching casing. The PlungePoint tip makes starts predictable. On painted trim and softwoods, the blade tracks exactly where I want. I can nibble up to a line without the tool wandering, which is half the battle with oscillating tools.

On nail-embedded wood, I took a cautious approach. The blade handled a couple of glancing nail strikes without instantly rolling its teeth. After a handful of intentional nail contacts during a stud notch, the teeth showed the expected wear but kept cutting. Did it feel like “7x life”? I can’t quantify that, but I didn’t feel shortchanged. Heat buildup was reasonable, and the coating seemed to help resist binding in resinous pine.

As for speed, both blades are solidly middle-of-the-road in the best way. They’re not so aggressive that they chatter or tear out, and they’re not so fine that you’re watching paint dry. The cut feel is controlled and predictable.

Durability and wear

• Plunge blade: Better-than-basic longevity, especially considering the nail encounters I put it through. After multiple trim cuts, a few plunge notches, and some demolition work in stud bays, the blade still had life left. Teeth showed expected rounding but no catastrophic chip-outs.
• 3-sided blade: Drywall barely fazes bi-metal teeth, and that held true here. I intentionally dragged the edge across a drywall screw head and saw only minor wear. In plywood, it cuts but isn’t the fastest; the square corners are more about layout accuracy than speed in sheet goods.

Neither blade warped or overheated under normal use. I did give them breaks on longer cuts, which is a good habit with oscillating tools to protect both the blade and the tool’s gearbox.

Control and ergonomics

These blades track straight, and the wider 3-sided profile actually helps act as a guide against surface lines. Vibration felt typical of a quality accessory: no odd harmonics, no edge flutter. Noise is what you’d expect—more from the tool than the blade. Visibility is decent; the 3-sided blade does block sightlines more than a slimmer profile, so I relied on the scribed line rather than “seeing” the cut develop.

Where they shine, where they don’t

Strengths:
- Accurate starts and predictable tracking with the plunge blade.
- Fast, square drywall box openings without overcut corners.
- Resilient enough around nails to get you through demo and remodel tasks.
- The 2 1/8 in width is genuinely useful for single-gang layouts.

Limitations:
- It’s a focused two-pack. If you need metal-only or grout blades, you’ll need a broader set.
- The 3-sided blade isn’t a plywood workhorse; it’s a layout and drywall specialist.
- There’s no limited warranty for this specific product, and you don’t get a storage sleeve or case.

Value and alternatives

Price will swing based on where you buy. From a cost-per-cut perspective, the set makes sense if you’ll use both profiles regularly—especially if you do remodel work with lots of drywall penetrations and occasional nail encounters. If your work is mostly finish carpentry with clean wood and no demolition, a multi-pack of finer-tooth wood blades might be better value. If you’re doing heavy demo with lots of metal, dedicated carbide-tipped blades will last longer, though at a premium.

In terms of performance, these blades hang right with other big-name options. They’re not revolutionary, and that’s okay—I prize consistency. The combination feels thoughtfully chosen rather than thrown together.

Practical tips for best results

• Let the oscillation do the work. If you push, you’ll heat the teeth and shorten blade life.
• For outlet boxes, score and mark carefully, plunge shallow, trace the perimeter, then finish the depth to keep edges crisp.
• When you suspect nails, run the tool at a moderate speed and be ready to feather the cut as you contact metal.
• Clean resin and drywall paste from the teeth with a quick brush; buildup dulls performance more than people think.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers and electricians who cut a lot of single-gang openings.
• DIYers upgrading or moving boxes, adding low-voltage plates, or trimming jambs for new flooring.
• Anyone who needs a reliable plunge blade and appreciates the time savings of a purpose-built drywall cutter.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt combo set. The plunge blade starts cleanly, stays on line, and holds up respectably when nails show up. The 3-sided blade makes fast, tidy drywall openings at the exact width you need for single-gang boxes, and its bi-metal teeth tolerate the occasional screw or nail without folding. There’s no warranty safety net, and the two-pack isn’t a one-and-done solution for every task, but as a practical pairing for remodel work it earns its keep. If you rely on these two cut types—controlled plunges and quick drywall box cutouts—this set is a smart, reliable addition to your blade drawer. If your needs skew toward heavy metal cutting or specialized materials, look for a broader kit, but for the everyday mix of wood, drywall, and the nails that live between, this one hits the target.