DeWalt Demolition bimetal reciprocating saw blades

Why these demolition blades earned a spot in my kit

Demolition work rewards blades that survive ugly cuts. Nails, screws, hidden brackets—if a blade can’t take a beating, it’s not worth packing. After several weeks using DeWalt’s DWAR160 demolition blades on framing tear-outs, door and window removals, and some plumbing odds and ends, I’ve come away impressed by their balance of stiffness, durability, and cutting speed—particularly in wood with embedded metal.

Build and design

These are bi-metal blades with a tall, thick profile and a tooth geometry that’s clearly tuned for demolition. The bi-metal construction gives you a flexible body with a tougher cutting edge, which is exactly what you want for rough-in and tear-out: enough flex to avoid snapping when the blade binds in odd angles, and enough hardness to keep the teeth from rounding over after hitting nails.

The blades I used were 12 inches long and came in a 20-pack. At that length, you gain reach for deep plunge cuts, cutting through doubled-up studs, and working around obstructions. The extra height and thickness make the blade track straighter in long cuts and help reduce chatter. They’re manufactured in the U.S. from global materials, and the finish and tooth set looked consistent across the pack.

A standout design detail is the toothform. It’s pitched and relieved in a way that clears chips efficiently. In practice, that matters most when you’re ripping through wet lumber or composite layers (shingles, underlayment, sheathing) where sawdust and debris can pack the gullets and slow you down.

Cutting performance

• Wood with nails: This is the sweet spot. The blades bite quickly, resist skittering on plunge starts, and keep moving even after several encounters with nails and deck screws. On 2x material with multiple fasteners, they stayed fast enough that I didn’t feel the need to switch blades mid-cut.

• Framing and sheathing: The tall, thick body kept the cut line straighter than thinner demo blades I’ve used. Long horizontal cuts across studs and headers were predictable with minimal deflection, especially when I kept the shoe planted and let the blade do the work.

• Metals and mixed materials: On lighter metals—EMT conduit, copper, and typical framing nails—these blades held up well. In thicker steel (angle iron, structural brackets), they’ll do the job but slow down as heat builds. That’s consistent with bi-metal expectations. If you primarily cut heavy steel or cast iron, a carbide-tipped demo blade is a better bet.

• PVC and composites: Clean enough cuts for demolition purposes. The toothform cleared chips nicely in PVC, reducing the melting you get with tighter-tooth blades.

Heat management was solid. I ran the saw on the aggressive side using orbital action where appropriate, and the teeth didn’t blue or glaze prematurely. The chip evacuation appears to be doing what DeWalt claims—less clogging, steadier feed pressure, and fewer stalls in gummy material.

Durability and lifespan

I didn’t snap any blades, even during awkward side pulls and deep plunge cuts through layered assemblies. That’s where the combination of thickness and bi-metal shine: the body flexes instead of shattering, and the taller spine resists buckling. Tooth wear was reasonable. After a few hours of mixed demo involving many nails and screws, the edge softened but didn’t turn toothless. They definitely outlast thin economy blades, though they don’t match the sheer longevity of carbide-tipped demolition blades in metal-heavy scenarios.

As with any recip blade, life depends on technique. Keeping the shoe tight to the work, avoiding side-loading, and letting the stroke do the cutting all contributed to longer life in my testing.

Control and cut quality

These blades feel stable. The stiffness helps reduce vibration, especially in longer reaches where whip can become a problem. Plunge starts were predictable; the pointed leading edge and tooth set grabbed without skittering across the surface. In tight cuts near finished surfaces, the 12-inch length can be a liability—it’s more blade than you need, which raises the risk of accidental contact behind the cut. In open framing, it’s perfect.

One general technique tip that paid off all week: use the shortest blade that reaches the cut safely. Shorter blades flex less, cut faster, and keep you out of trouble with hidden utilities. For most door jambs and stud cuts, an 8- or 9-inch blade is plenty; reserve the 12-inch length for deep or obstructed cuts.

Where these blades shine

• Remodel and demo tear-outs where wood with nails is the main course
• Deep plunge cuts through layered assemblies (siding/sheathing/stud)
• Cuts requiring a straighter track than thin, flexible blades can manage
• Crews that chew through blades and need a consistent 20-pack for the jobsite

Where they fall short

• Thick steel and cast iron: they’ll cut it, but slower than carbide-tipped demo blades
• Tight quarters and delicate flush cuts, where a shorter, thinner, or finer-tooth blade is easier to control
• Finish-critical work; the tooth geometry is demolition-oriented, not for clean edges

Practical notes from the field

• Pair with orbital action in wood; turn orbital off for metal to keep the teeth engaged smoothly.
• Let the blade cool during long metal cuts. A quick break preserves the edge.
• Keep the saw’s shoe firmly planted. It reduces chatter and extends blade life.
• Use a variable speed trigger to avoid hammering the teeth when starting on metal fasteners.
• If you’re cutting layered materials, feather the feed pressure to keep the gullets from packing up; these blades clear chips well, but you still need to help them along with good technique.

Value and pack considerations

A 20-pack makes sense for demolition. You’re going to burn through blades on a big tear-out, and consistency across the pack matters more than squeezing the last cut out of a single blade. There’s no limited warranty here, which is typical for consumable cutting tools. Given the U.S. manufacturing and the performance I saw, the pack felt like a fair tradeoff of durability for cost, especially compared with premium carbide options.

Comparisons and alternatives

If your demo work frequently encounters dense metal—ledger bolts, steel brackets, thick pipe—carbide-tipped blades will last longer and cut faster in those materials, albeit at a higher price per blade. Conversely, if you primarily cut clean wood and occasional nails, a thinner, cheaper bi-metal blade can be faster in straight-line cuts but won’t track as well or last as long when things get rough. These DeWalt blades sit in a smart middle ground: robust enough for real demolition, without the specialty cost of carbide.

The bottom line

DeWalt’s demolition blades (DWAR160) struck a useful balance in my hands: stiff and tall enough to track true and survive abusive cuts, flexible enough not to shatter when bound, and aggressive enough to keep moving through nail-riddled lumber. The patented toothform’s chip clearance shows up as steady cutting speed and less clogging in messy material. They’re not the fastest choice in heavy metal, and the 12-inch length won’t be ideal for every cut, but for general remodeling and tear-out, they’re reliable, predictable, and easy to recommend.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades for remodelers, demo crews, maintenance teams, and serious DIYers tackling tear-outs where wood-with-nails is the primary task. They deliver dependable performance, good longevity for bi-metal, and jobsite-friendly stability. If your work leans heavily into thick steel or cast iron, step up to carbide-tipped alternatives; otherwise, these blades are a solid, cost-effective staple for demolition.