Skil 8 IN. Worm Drive Saw for Metal

A portable cold-cut workhorse for real-world metalwork

I brought the Skilsaw Outlaw into my shop to handle a run of mild-steel projects—ripping 4x8 sheets into strips, trimming 1/4-inch plate, and breaking down structural shapes that wouldn’t fit in my bandsaw. After several weeks of cutting everything from thin-wall square tube to 3/8-inch plate and chunky 1-inch flat bar, I’ve formed a clear picture of where this 8-inch metal worm drive shines and where it doesn’t.

Setup, blade, and first impressions

Out of the box, the saw feels substantial. At a hair over 20 pounds, it’s heavier than a typical wood circular saw, but that weight translates into stability once the blade meets steel. Installing the included 42-tooth carbide-tipped blade is straightforward. The blade guard/chip catcher hinges away easily, and the onboard wrench tucked into the foot keeps everything self-contained. Mine was clipped in tightly at first—nice in the sense that it won’t rattle loose in a truck box, but it took a screwdriver to pop it free the first time.

Skilsaw’s signature left-side blade and viewing window are immediately helpful. As a right-handed user, I could track my line clearly without hunching over the tool. The stainless foot glides over plate and doesn’t scar easily, and the magnesium gear housing keeps the bulk in check without feeling flimsy.

Cutting performance and speed

This is a worm drive built for metal, and it behaves that way—lots of torque, steady feed, and controlled chip ejection. In practice:

• 1/4-inch mild steel plate: With a steady feed, I averaged about 60–90 seconds for a 36-inch rip using the stock blade. The motor never bogged, and the cut path stayed true without wandering.
• 3/8-inch plate and heavy channel: Slower feed, naturally, but still very controlled. I made multiple crosscuts on 3x5 channel with clean edges and minimal burr.
• 1-inch flat bar: Set the depth correctly and let the saw work. It’s not fast like a chop saw on small stock, but it’s consistent and produced a usable edge right off the cut.
• Thin-wall tubing and angle: This is where it really feels efficient. It leaves the piece intact—no blueing, minimal burrs, and almost no cleanup needed before fitting.

Compared to an abrasive grinder, the Outlaw is faster, straighter, and far cleaner. Compared to a portable plasma, it’s slower for long rips but dramatically cleaner and more accurate. If you’re cutting sheet and plate where you need tight control over edge quality and dimensions, this saw saves time later at the bench.

Cut quality, heat, and chip control

The 42T carbide blade is dialed in for cold cutting. Edges come off with a satin finish, minimal discoloration, and a small, uniform burr that usually wipes away with a file or quick pass on a flap disc. The steel is warm, not scorching, and cools quickly—another win over abrasive methods.

Chip management is better than most. The integrated chip tray collects a surprising amount before it needs to be emptied, and it’s legitimately useful on long rips. It works best when you’re at full blade depth; if you set a shallow depth for thin stock, you’ll see more chips escape since more of the blade is exposed outside the guard. You’ll still want to expect and manage metal chips on the floor, but the tray reduces the chaos significantly.

Handling and ergonomics

• Balance and control: The worm drive layout and weight give the saw a planted feel. It tracks well on a scribed line, and paired with a clamped straightedge, it produces near track-saw accuracy on sheet goods.
• Visibility: The left-side blade orientation and cut-line window are genuinely helpful. It’s easy to hit your mark without leaning into harm’s way.
• Motor behavior: The 15A dual-field motor stays cool under continuous use. I did extended cutting sessions on 4x8 plate breakdowns, and thermal performance was a non-issue.
• Cord: The 8-foot cord is adequate, but I still used a heavy-gauge extension for larger work areas. A longer factory cord would be nice.
• Weight: At 20.9 pounds, it’s not something I’d want to hold overhead or carry up scaffolding repeatedly. On a table or the ground, though, the heft helps.

Noise is significant—this is still metal cutting—so hearing protection is a must. Spark output is low compared to abrasive methods, but chips are sharp and hot. Wear a face shield, gloves, and long sleeves, and keep flammables away.

Depth capacity and what it means in the shop

With an 8-inch blade and 2-3/4-inch cutting capacity at 90 degrees, the Outlaw handles a wide range of tasks:

• Plate and sheet breakdown up to 3/8 inch are comfortable, and 1/2-inch cuts are doable with patience and the right blade.
• Structural cuts on angle, channel, and tube are efficient and clean.
• Long rips on 4x8 sheets benefit from a straightedge or guide rail. The stainless foot rides nicely, and the saw doesn’t fight you.

This is primarily a 90-degree machine. If you routinely need bevels or miters in plate, you’ll be better served with a dedicated setup or finishing those angles on a grinder after a square cut. The Outlaw is at its best making accurate, square cuts quickly with minimal cleanup.

Blade life and maintenance

The included 42T blade is a solid general-purpose choice for mild steel. If you’re cutting aluminum or stainless, swap to a blade designed for that material and tooth geometry. As with any cold-cut system:

• Keep your feed steady—pushing too fast shortens blade life and roughens the cut.
• Let the blade cool between long cuts.
• Empty the chip tray regularly.
• Check the foot and guard for chip build-up so it continues to close smoothly.

The onboard wrench storage is a small but appreciated touch. It keeps blade changes quick, and you’re less likely to hunt for a hex key when you’re mid-project.

What I liked

• Clean, accurate cuts with minimal burrs and very little heat on the workpiece
• Excellent sightline from the left-blade orientation and blade window
• Chip tray that actually reduces cleanup and keeps work areas safer
• Strong, consistent torque from the worm drive and 15A dual-field motor
• Stainless foot and magnesium housing balance durability and weight
• Practical touches like the onboard wrench and a clear entry indicator for starting cuts

What I’d improve

• The saw is heavy; great on a bench, less ideal for overhead or awkward positions
• The 8-foot cord feels short on large jobsites
• Chip collection is best at full depth; shallow cuts shed more chips
• Primarily a 90-degree tool—if you need frequent bevels, this isn’t your one-and-done

Who it’s for

• Fabricators and metalworkers breaking down sheet, plate, and dimensionals on site
• Tradespeople doing stair stringers, guard rails, gates, and structural modifications
• Furniture makers and welders who value edge quality and want to minimize post-cut grinding
• Anyone currently using abrasive cutoff wheels for straight cuts and tired of heat, sparks, and dust

It’s less ideal if you spend most of your time making repetitive crosscuts on small stock—there, a dry-cut chop saw is faster—or if overhead work is common and weight is a primary concern.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skilsaw Outlaw for anyone who needs clean, accurate, and repeatable metal cuts in a portable format. It’s faster and far cleaner than abrasive methods, easier to keep straight on long cuts, and the chip control is meaningfully better than the average metal circular saw. While the weight and cord length are minor trade-offs, the overall performance, cut quality, and usability make it a dependable problem solver in a metal shop or on a jobsite. If your work involves regular sheet and plate breakdown or precision fitting before welding, this saw earns its keep.