moveland 200PCS 8mm UTV ATV Fender Push Clips with Fastener Removal Tool, Nylon Body Rivets Fasteners Clips Compatible with Polaris Ranger RZR Can Am Kawasaki Teryx Honda Suzuki Sportsman

Why I grabbed this kit

After a recent round of maintenance on my side-by-side, I had the familiar pile of broken, missing, and mangled plastic rivets to show for it. Rather than cherry-picking replacements one by one, I picked up the moveland 8mm push-clip kit—a bulk pack of nylon body clips with a simple removal tool. I’ve since used it on a Kawasaki Teryx and a Honda ATV to pull and replace fender, splash shield, and small trim fasteners. For jobs that involve removing plastics more than once, keeping a stash like this nearby has been a quiet game-changer.

What’s in the kit

• 200 identical 8 mm nylon push-pin rivets
• A plastic two-ended removal tool (a wedge/fork and a pointed tip)

This isn’t a mixed assortment; it’s a single-size kit intended for panels that use 8 mm holes. The fasteners are the standard two-piece style: insert the body, then press the center pin to expand the legs. To remove, pop the center pin up and extract the body. It’s a simple mechanism that works reliably when the clip and the hole size match.

Build quality and design

The clips feel dense and well-molded, with clean edges and no flashing on the barbs. The heads are flat and slightly domed, which hides well in plastic bodywork without looking aftermarket. I’ve squeezed and flexed a handful; they don’t chalk or crack in the hand the way brittle, aged fasteners do. The nylon blend here leans slightly toward toughness rather than glassy hardness, which pays off during install/removal cycles.

The removal tool is basic but thoughtful. The forked end is thin enough to slide under the clip head without chewing up surrounding plastic, and the pointed end is handy for popping the center pin back up. Being plastic, it’s gentle on painted or molded panels. It does flex under stubborn, mud-glued clips, but that’s a trade-off I don’t mind for the added safety on softer surfaces.

In use: installing and removing

Installation is straightforward:

1. Align the panel and the hole.
2. Insert the rivet body until the head seats.
3. Press the center pin flush.

I found the shank tolerances consistent; they seat with fingertip pressure and “lock” with a firm push of the pin. On the Teryx’s fender wells and splash guards, the clips pulled panels snug without crushing them, even where the hole molding wasn’t perfect.

Removal is where these usually go sideways, but the kit’s tool does help. I slide the pointed end under the center pin to raise it proud, then switch to the fork to lift evenly. Old clips with gritty stems sometimes resist; if the fork flexes too much, a gentle twist or a second lift from the other side avoids tearing the panel. Compared with prying at old fasteners with a flathead screwdriver, I handled more of them intact and without leaving gouges.

Compatibility and fit

On machines that spec 8 mm push rivets (common on many Polaris, Can-Am, Honda, Suzuki, and Kawasaki models), these are a drop-in substitution for OEM part numbers like Polaris 7661855 and Honda 90653-HC4-900. The catch is that powersports plastics aren’t standardized, and many vehicles mix fastener sizes across the body. This kit covers the 8 mm positions; if your machine also uses 6 mm or 10 mm in other spots, you’ll still need those sizes on hand.

If you’re unsure, measure the hole diameter (not the head) or cross-reference your OEM part number. As for panel thickness, these clips handled typical fender and shroud stacks without bottoming out or leaving the head proud. They’re not intended for dense, multi-layer stack-ups where a screw or bolt would be more appropriate.

Durability and retention

I installed a batch and left them through a couple of trail days and a pressure wash. They stayed put—no rattles and no pins creeping up. Reusability is also solid. After three remove/replace cycles on the same clip, the legs still expanded fully and the head remained tidy. Nylon fasteners can get brittle in deep cold; if you’re working near freezing temps, warming a few clips in a pocket before installation helps. Long-term UV exposure can age any plastic, but for fasteners largely tucked under fenders and covers, the risk is minimal.

The biggest contributor to longevity is keeping grit out of the mechanism. If a clip has been in a mud bath, take an extra second to flick out debris from the center pin channel before reusing it; that prevents premature stickiness or incomplete locking.

The removal tool: where it shines and where it doesn’t

The included tool is genuinely useful for light to medium-duty work. It’s the right shape, it won’t mar soft plastic, and it fits the fasteners well. Its limitation is leverage. Old clips baked in place by heat or age sometimes call for more persuasion. In those moments, a metal clip plier with a wider fulcrum is faster and will spare your hands. My workflow has become: start with the included tool for delicate panels, escalate to metal pliers only for the most stubborn clips.

Value and what you’re paying for

Buying OEM fasteners piecemeal gets expensive fast. In contrast, the per-clip cost here is low, and the convenience of having a large stockpile means you stop wasting time trying to salvage a half-broken rivet. For shops or anyone who opens plastics regularly—belt access, wiring, cleaning—this bulk kit pays for itself quickly. Even for a home garage, 200 pieces isn’t overkill; you’ll go through more than you expect once you stop babying old fasteners.

Limitations to consider

• Single size only. If your machine uses multiple fastener sizes, you’ll need additional kits.
• Plastic tool flex. Great for panel safety, but not the last word in leverage.
• Not for structural joints. These are for trim, shields, light panels—not load-bearing attachments.

None of these are deal-breakers; they’re simply the boundaries of what push-pin rivets are designed to do.

Practical tips for better results

• Keep a small pick or the tool’s pointed end handy to lift the center pin before prying; trying to yank the clip out with the pin still locked is how panels get scarred.
• Wipe the clip clean if it’s full of mud before reinserting; the center pin will seat more reliably.
• Seat the panel fully before pressing the pin; if the stack isn’t aligned, you’ll “lock” the clip prematurely and lose clamping force.
• For cold-weather installs, warm the clips slightly to reduce brittleness.

Who this kit suits

• UTV/ATV owners who regularly remove fenders, shields, or trim.
• DIYers maintaining Polaris, Can-Am, Honda, Kawasaki, or Suzuki models that spec 8 mm push rivets.
• Small shops that want a consistent, reliable replacement for OEM plastic rivets without chasing part numbers.

If you’re building out a universal fastener drawer with every size under the sun, this isn’t that; it’s a focused, high-utility stock of one of the most common sizes.

Recommendation

I recommend the moveland 8mm push-clip kit. The nylon fasteners are well-made, consistent, and hold panels securely. The included removal tool is genuinely useful for day-to-day work and gentle on plastics. As a single-size bulk pack, it’s a cost-effective way to stop wrestling with tired OEM clips and keep your panels serviceable. Just be sure your machine uses 8 mm push rivets in the locations you plan to service, and consider adding a metal plier to your toolbox for the few stubborn clips the plastic tool won’t budge. For routine maintenance and cleaner, faster panel work, this kit earns a permanent spot on the shelf.