EFIELD (Pack of 50) EFIELD Black Color Half Clamp Fixture, J-Hook with Nail For 3/4" PEX Tubing/Pipe Support,

What it is and where it fits in

For running 3/4-inch PEX cleanly along framing, I’ve come to like simple, repeatable solutions that don’t fight me in tight spaces. The EFIELD J-hooks check those boxes. They’re half-clamp supports with pre-attached nails, sized specifically for 3/4-inch PEX, and they come in a 50-pack so you can stage a whole run without counting every last clip. The black engineering plastic disappears visually against framing and does a nice job of decoupling the tubing from wood, which helps with both appearance and noise.

I used these on a crawlspace trunk-and-branch layout and for a series of straight runs in a mechanical room. The half-clamp design made it easy to snap the tubing in and out while I adjusted manifolds and shutoffs, and the preloaded nails sped up the install more than I expected.

Build and design

The hook is a single piece of molded engineering plastic with a curved cradle for the tube and a small platform where a nail comes pre-attached. There’s enough flex in the “J” so you can push the PEX in by hand—no tools required—but it still holds firm once seated. The plastic has a slightly matte finish that grips PEX just enough without scuffing.

Highlights:
- Size and fit: Properly sized for 3/4-inch PEX OD. The tubing seats with a confident snap and doesn’t rattle.
- Material: The plastic is stiff enough to hold shape but not brittle. It will crack if you overdrive the nail or skew it at a bad angle, but used correctly it holds up.
- Nails: The nails bite well into SPF studs and joists. They set with a couple of firm hammer taps and resist backing out. In very hard or dense framing (old oak, LVLs), I had better outcomes with a small pilot hole to prevent the plastic foot from stressing.

The black color is more than a cosmetic detail. Dark hardware tends to visually recede in mechanical spaces, and these look tidy when lined up along joists or on utility walls.

Installation experience

The win with a half-clamp is workflow. I like to walk the run, pop in a dozen hooks loosely, then pull the tubing and snap it into place, tweaking spacing as needed before finishing the nails. With full-circle clamps, you often have to thread pipe through, which is slower when you’re working solo.

A few practical notes from the install:
- Start square: Keep the nail square to the surface and stop as soon as the plastic foot is snug. Overdriving is the fastest way to crack any plastic clamp.
- Hardwood and engineered framing: Pre-drill a 1/16–3/32 pilot hole. It adds seconds and prevents stress on the hook.
- Spacing: Check your local code, but a common standard for 3/4-inch PEX on horizontal runs is support roughly every 32 inches. I used 24–30 inches where I wanted extra rigidity and at every change of direction.
- Expansion and noise: PEX moves with temperature. The half-clamp gives the tubing a little room to shift, which helps prevent ticks and clicks. Leave a tiny bit of play on long hot-water runs.
- Orientation: Mount the open side of the “J” toward a direction that makes sense for service. If I expect to pull and re-seat tubing later (near manifolds, valves, or filters), I orient them so I can snap the pipe out without fighting framing.

The nails come pre-attached and stayed put across the whole pack—no loose fasteners, no fiddling. In softwood, two solid taps set them; one more takes the hook home. Working overhead, I appreciated not juggling separate nails or screws.

Holding power and performance

Once set, the hooks hold 3/4-inch PEX firmly enough that the tube won’t walk out on a straight run, even with a little thermal movement. On long hot-water lines, I position hooks to guide the tube rather than clamp it tightly, and the hooks accommodated that approach well.

The plastic isolates the tube from wood, so there’s less chance of creaking where the line touches a joist. It’s not a cure-all for expansion noise, but it’s materially quieter than metal clamps. I didn’t see any scuffing on the PEX after snapping lines in and out multiple times during layout.

Note that these are supports, not restraints. For tight bends, near shutoff valves, or where the line transitions to a rigid stub-out, you may want a full-circle clamp or bracket for positive restraint. I still used these within a foot or two of fixtures to keep lines tidy, but I paired them with proper brackets at the termination.

Fit and compatibility

• Tubing types: Works with PEX-A, PEX-B, and PEX-C. The nominal OD for 3/4-inch PEX is the same across types, and the hooks fit all three without fuss.
• Pipe materials: These are not for copper, CPVC, or PVC—just PEX.
• Surfaces: Ideal for wood framing. On masonry or steel, you’ll need a different fastening strategy entirely.
• Environments: There’s no corrosion rating listed for the nails, and the plastic isn’t advertised as UV-stable. I’d avoid exterior exposure, direct sunlight, or pressure-treated lumber in corrosive environments unless you substitute appropriate fasteners and protective measures.

Where they fall short

• Not a cure for everything: Because they’re half clamps, they don’t provide 360-degree restraint. For vertical drops where pullout might occur or for heavily trafficked mechanical chases, a full clamp can be a safer choice.
• Fastener flexibility: The nail is baked into the design. If you prefer screws for removability or need specific corrosion resistance, you don’t have that option out of the box.
• Cold-weather brittleness: Like most plastics, these stiffen in cold conditions. In near-freezing crawlspaces, I found they’re more sensitive to overdriving. Keeping them warm until use helps, and so does pre-drilling in dense framing.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re worth knowing so you pick the right support for each spot.

Value and pack size

The 50-pack is practical. On a typical 40–60-foot trunk line with branches, that quantity lets you support the main run, brace a few directional changes, and tidy up around manifolds without running out. Consistency across the pack was good—uniform fit, no warped hooks, nails straight and ready.

I also appreciate that these come from a PEX-focused manufacturer. The sizing and spring in the hook feel like they’ve been tested against real tubing tolerances, not guessed-at dimensions.

Tips for best results

• Map your run and set hooks loosely first; snap tubing in; then finish nails.
• Use closer spacing near bends, manifolds, and valves.
• Pre-drill in hardwood or engineered lumber to protect the hook.
• Leave slight play on long hot-water lines for expansion.
• Avoid exterior UV exposure; store and install above freezing when possible.
• Pair with full clamps or brackets where positive restraint is required.

Alternatives worth considering

• Full-circle plastic clamps: Better restraint near terminations and vertical drops, slower to work with during layout.
• Cushioned metal clamps: Great for noise and restraint, but overkill for long, straight PEX runs and slower to install.
• Strap hangers: Flexible for odd angles, not as neat, and can allow more movement than you want with PEX.

For straight runs on wood framing, the J-hooks hit a sweet spot of speed, cleanliness, and adequate support.

Recommendation

I recommend the EFIELD J-hooks for anyone running 3/4-inch PEX on wood framing who values a fast, tidy install. They’re sized right, easy to set, and the half-clamp design makes mid-project adjustments painless. Use them as your primary supports on straight horizontal runs and pair them with more secure clamps at critical terminations. Skip them for exterior or corrosive environments where fastener specs and UV exposure become concerns.

If you want a straightforward, cost-effective way to keep 3/4-inch PEX organized and supported, these hooks are a solid choice.