Holdrite 1/2 inch Suspension Clamp, 10 Pack, Pipe Support, PEX, Copper, CPVC, 221Z10

Why I reached for these clamps

I’ve tried most of the usual suspects for keeping water lines tidy—nail-on semicircular straps, metal loop hangers, and an assortment of plastic standoffs. For a recent refresh of a basement rough-in and a couple of noisy copper runs overhead, I switched to the HoldRite suspension clamps in the 1/2-inch size. The short version: they’re easy to install, they stabilize pipe noticeably better than basic straps, and they cut down on movement and ticking sounds without a lot of fuss.

Design and build

These are compact, one-piece, snap-in clamps molded from a rigid plastic polymer. They’re sized for 1/2-inch CTS (copper tube size) piping and work across copper, PEX, and CPVC. Each clamp has an integral set of mounting ears for fastening to wood or metal studs or joists, and the body forms a smooth cradle around the tubing. The plastic feels dense—not brittle—and the hinge/snap action has a solid, positive click. I’ve opened and reclosed several clamps during layout changes and they haven’t loosened up or started to squeak, which aligns with their reuse rating (up to four times).

The footprint is small, but the ears are long enough to get a screw or nail placed securely without crowding the pipe. That extra bit of reach matters in tight stud bays or when you need just a little offset to keep a line parallel and straight.

They’re rated to 200 PSI and 200°F, which gives me confidence on both domestic hot and cold lines. While this is a support product, not a pressure boundary, that kind of rating typically signals a better engineered plastic and consistent molding.

Installation in tight spaces

The value of these clamps really shows up during remodels and retrofits. Working through notched studs and existing penetrations, I was able to slip the open clamp around the tubing, position it, and snap it closed one-handed while holding a drill or palm nailer in the other hand. There’s no soldering, no glue, and no crimp sleeves to fuss with—just position and fasten.

A couple of practical tips from my use:

• Orient the clamp to protect against chafing. If a pipe passes through a stud opening, I like to flip the clamp so the longer portion sits in the stud bay as a buffer. It keeps the pipe from wandering and sliding against the wood.
• Use screws on metal studs. The ears are flat and accept screws cleanly; self-drilling pan-head screws bite nicely without deforming the clamp.
• Pre-plan expansion room. Copper and CPVC expand and contract. These clamps hold firmly, but still allow the pipe to sit and slide slightly. Place them at intervals that control the line while leaving room for movement near terminations.

HoldRite calls the connection “push-fit,” which matches the feel: you push to get a snug, secure closure around the tubing. The result is a tight, even grip that helps prevent water hammer from translating into rattle along the framing.

Performance: stability and noise control

Stability is the standout here. Compared to basic nail-on half-clamps, these fully capture the pipe and keep it from flexing in and out of plane. On my PEX trunk-and-branch runs, that reduced the “bounce” you can sometimes see when multiple fixtures open and close.

The second big benefit is sound. On a copper hot line that used to tick against a joist with every shower, swapping two strap clamps for two suspension clamps eliminated the noise. The plastic isolates the pipe from wood or metal contact and holds it consistently centered, so thermal movement doesn’t translate into tapping. On PEX, the clamps also help prevent those little drumming vibrations you sometimes get near elbows.

Compatibility and sizing notes

These are sized for 1/2-inch CTS tubing, which is standard for 1/2-inch copper, CPVC (CTS), and 1/2-inch PEX (which has roughly 5/8-inch outside diameter). If you’re used to Schedule 40 PVC sizing, remember that its nominal sizes have different outside diameters. In practical terms:

• 1/2-inch CTS clamp: use for 1/2-inch copper, 1/2-inch PEX (A/B/C), and 1/2-inch CPVC (CTS).
• For PVC, check OD. If you’re switching systems or reusing clamps across materials, verify the outside diameter against the clamp’s spec so you get the snug, centered fit these are designed for.

The clamps are also friendly to mixing systems: I had no issues supporting short copper stubs transitioning to PEX; both sat cleanly in the same clamp type where needed.

Durability and reuse

I tend to move supports during layout as I fine-tune strap spacing and valve positions. These have held up to that shuffle well. I opened and reinstalled several clamps multiple times without the latch feeling sloppy. The plastic hasn’t shown stress whitening or cracking under normal fastening pressure, and after a few months in a humid basement there’s no warping or creaking.

That 200°F rating is reassuring on recirculating hot lines or near water heaters. I still keep clamps a sensible distance from heat sources, but on domestic hot runs in an insulated joist bay, they’re unfazed.

Limitations and gotchas

No product is perfect, and there are a few things to keep in mind:

• Verify the size against material OD. CTS vs. IPS/PVC sizing trips people up. If the clamp feels loose over the pipe, you probably grabbed the wrong nominal size.
• Not a stand-in for firestopping or sleeves. These are supports, not firestop devices. If you’re penetrating rated assemblies, you’ll need proper collars or sealants per code.
• Fastener choice matters. The ears hold nails or screws, but on dense LVL or metal, screws make for a more secure, rattle-free install.
• Limited stand-off. If you need a big offset from a surface to clear insulation or to run multiple parallel lines, a deeper bracket or multi-port isolator might be better. These are compact and close to the surface by design.

Comparison to common alternatives

• Versus nail-on semicircular straps: these stabilize much better and isolate sound more effectively. Straps are faster for quick tacks, but they don’t center the pipe.
• Versus metal loop hangers: metal hangers are strong and versatile, but they can transmit sound and require more hardware. The plastic cradle here is quieter and faster for small-diameter domestic runs.
• Versus grommets alone: grommets protect the pipe through a hole; these actually hold position and keep a run straight. I often use both—grommet at the penetration, clamp nearby to lock the line.

Best use cases

• Securing 1/2-inch PEX along studs and joists in bathrooms and kitchens.
• Quieting copper hot lines that tick or rattle against framing.
• Preventing PEX from migrating in stud penetrations, reducing abrasion risk.
• Neat, parallel runs where a consistent centerline matters.

For spacing, I place them wherever a line wants to wander—near bends, before/after valves, and at mid-span on longer runs. The goal is straight, supported, and quiet.

Pros and cons

Pros:
- Quick, one-hand snap-in installation
- Strong, centered support that reduces movement and noise
- Compatible with copper, PEX, and CPVC
- Rated 200 PSI/200°F; reusable up to four times
- Works on wood or metal studs; good in tight spaces

Cons:
- CTS sizing can be confusing if you’re coming from PVC
- Limited stand-off depth compared to specialty brackets
- Requires appropriate fasteners for metal framing

The bottom line

After installing and living with these clamps on both PEX and copper, I consider them a go-to for 1/2-inch domestic lines. They make tidy, quiet work of pipe support, especially in remodel situations where you’re threading new lines through old framing and can’t add blocking everywhere you’d like.

Recommendation: I recommend these suspension clamps. They’re faster and cleaner than basic straps, provide noticeably better stabilization and noise isolation, and they hold up well to repositioning and heat on domestic hot lines. As long as you choose the right size for your pipe’s outside diameter and pair them with appropriate fasteners, they deliver reliable, code-friendly support without overcomplicating the job.