Small Parts 0607YPPG #6-17 x 7/16" Phillips Pan Head Serrated Fine Drywall Framing Screw Black Oxide

Why I reached for these screws

On a recent steel-stud partition build-out, I needed a short, sharp-biting fastener for light-gauge connections—stuff like hat channel to studs, corner bead, clips, and a few metal-to-metal attachments where a bugle-head drywall screw simply isn’t the right fit. I grabbed a pack of Small Parts #6-17 pan-head framing screws and put them through a couple of days of on-and-off use. They’re 7/16-inch long, with a piercing point, serrated fine threads, and a black phosphate coating. In short: purpose-built for thin-gauge steel where you want a quick bite, a broad pan head bearing surface, and no pre-drilling.

Build and finish

Out of the pack, the screws were cleanly formed with sharp, consistent tips and even coating. The black phosphate finish is what I’d expect for interior steel framing work—low glare, low friction, and enough surface protection for dry environments. I didn’t run into flaky plating or gritty residue, which matters when you’re feeding screws from a pouch; anything dusty ends up in your driver and slows you down.

Thread quality and concentricity were solid. The serrations along the fine thread flank help the screw carve into thin steel skin rather than just push it. That reduces initial drive torque and, in my experience, shortens the “wobble and hunt” phase you can get with needle-point screws in slick, coated studs.

The pan head is modest in height and offers a good bearing surface for metal-to-metal and accessory attachment. It’s not a head you’d bury under paper (that’s what bugle heads are for), and it does sit proud—as it should. If you need flush under a finish material, choose a different fastener.

Driving performance

I drove these with both a compact 12V drill/driver (clutch on medium) and an 18V impact driver (low speed, low impact). A #2 Phillips bit is the right match; fit in the recess was snug and repeatable. A few notes on how they behaved:

• Piercing point: In 25-gauge studs and track, the tip broke through quickly with a light touch. No pre-drilling needed. I had the best success starting at moderate RPM to let the point establish, then smoothing up the speed through engagement.
• Serrated fine threads: Once the tip pierced, the screw advanced fast and clean with minimal burr build-up. It felt like less torque was needed than with non-serrated, needle-point #6s I’ve used from bulk bins.
• Cam-out: With a #2 Phillips, cam-out is always on the table if you let speed run away at the end. Using a clutch or dialing down impact prevented chewing the head. In normal use, head recesses held up well, and I didn’t strip any under reasonable care.
• Chip control: Thin-gauge steel doesn’t throw big chips, but serrations can still scrape. I noticed less flake than with some coarse-thread versions; what did come off stayed small and didn’t clog the bit.

Across about a hundred placements on a mix of 25-gauge and a handful of 20-gauge connections (single layer), I didn’t encounter malformed heads or bent shanks. Consistency is the main story here; you can set a rhythm without worrying if screw number 37 is going to be the oddball.

Where these shine—and where they don’t

These screws are optimally suited to interior light-gauge steel framing tasks where a short, pan-head fastener makes sense:

• Attaching corner bead, clips, and accessories to steel studs
• Hanging hat channel or furring strips onto studs and track
• Securing electrical boxes, brackets, and small hardware to thin metal
• Stitching sheet-metal components where you need a low-rise, broad head

There are a few situations where I’d reach for something else:

• Hanging drywall: Use bugle-head drywall screws for proper seating under paper.
• Thicker steel: For 18-gauge and heavier, self-drilling (TEK) screws in #6 or #8 sizes are more reliable.
• Exterior or wet areas: Black phosphate is for dry interiors; for moisture-prone locations, go with coated, stainless, or otherwise rated fasteners.
• Hidden or flush applications: The pan head sits proud; if you need flat, choose a different head style.

Length and holding power

At 7/16 inch, these are intentionally short. In thin sheet metal, that length provides adequate thread engagement without “spearing through” and snagging what’s behind your work. You get fast placements and less risk of telegraphing through a finished surface or hitting hidden services. If you’re layering materials (e.g., accessory plus stud plus clip), verify total stack-up; if it exceeds thin single-layer metal, you may want a 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch length to ensure enough threads in the base material.

Holding power in light-gauge steel is more about thread form and engagement than brute length. The fine, serrated thread here grips predictably and resists back-out under vibration better than coarse-thread drywall screws used off-label in steel.

Practical tips for clean installs

A few habits that made these drive better for me:

• Use a fresh, impact-rated #2 Phillips bit; swap as soon as you feel slop.
• Start slow to let the piercing point establish; then roll into steady RPM.
• Set a clutch if you’re on a drill/driver; with an impact, choose the lowest impact setting to avoid over-driving.
• Keep the work tight—clamp or hand-press the two pieces so the screw doesn’t push the top layer away before the threads catch.
• If you’re working near edges on very thin steel, let the screw cut with light pressure to reduce blowout.

Comparisons and alternatives

Against general-purpose bugle-head drywall screws, these win outright in thin-gauge steel connections. The piercing point and thread geometry are better suited to metal; the pan head spreads load over accessories and won’t crater thin stock the way a bugle head can.

Compared to self-drilling (TEK) screws, these are faster in very thin steel because the needle point doesn’t have to drill a full pilot; they just poke and go. But once you get into heavier studs or double-layer connections with real structure, a TEK point is the safer bet. That’s not a knock—just the importance of matching the fastener to the material.

Durability and corrosion

The black phosphate coating is appropriate for interior, dry environments and takes paint well if you’re finishing over accessories. It’s not a corrosion-resistant finish for damp or exterior conditions. In a bathroom or utility space that sees intermittent humidity but no direct wetting, I’m comfortable using them behind finishes; for exposed or persistently humid locations, I’d step up to a fastener designed for that environment.

Packaging and consistency

A 100-count pack is a reasonable quantity for punch lists, accessory installs, and small to mid-size projects without committing to a contractor bucket. The count was accurate, and my pack was free of out-of-spec stragglers. That consistency matters more than it gets credit for—you don’t want to stop mid-run to dig past a mangled head or dull tip.

What I’d change

If I could tweak anything, I’d love a Torx-drive variant for even better engagement, especially for overhead work where you’re at an awkward angle. That said, the Phillips recess here held up admirably as long as I respected torque. A slightly longer option (say, 1/2 inch) in the same series would also be handy to cover a broader range of stack-ups without switching SKUs.

The bottom line

These #6-17 pan-head framing screws are a dependable choice for thin-gauge steel where a short, piercing, pan-head fastener is the right tool. They bite quickly, drive smoothly, and hold accessories and light metal components with a predictable, tidy finish. Within their intended envelope—interior, light-gauge steel—they do exactly what they should and don’t get in your way.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone doing interior light-gauge steel work—framers, finish carpenters working with metal studs, electricians hanging boxes or straps, and maintenance crews who need a reliable metal-to-metal screw in a manageable pack size. They’re not the universal answer (don’t use them for drywall-to-stud fastening, exterior work, or heavy-gauge steel), but matched to the right task, they’re efficient, consistent, and easy to live with.