DeWalt 10 in. Claw Bar

Why this claw bar earned a spot in my pouch

I don’t baby my pry tools. They live at the bottom of a pouch, get swung, struck, and jammed into ugly places. After a few weeks of real jobsite use, this 10-inch claw bar has proven it’s more than a one-trick nail puller—it’s a compact, well-thought-out cat’s paw that balances finesse and leverage better than most.

Design and ergonomics

The first thing I noticed is the I‑beam shaft. It keeps the weight down while still feeling rigid under load. At around 10 inches long and roughly 0.4 pounds, it’s light enough to carry all day, but the geometry gives it a planted, substantial feel when you lean on it. The black oxide finish isn’t just for looks; it sheds glare and resists the light rust that often blooms on tools that see moisture. It will wear with use—as expected—but the metal underneath holds up.

The extra-wide striking face is a small but meaningful upgrade. On many cat’s paws, you’re tapping a rounded back or a skinny ridge to set the claws under a nail head; here, the flat, wide target makes those taps more deliberate, especially when you’re working one-handed on a ladder or over your head. The curve of the primary claw rolls nicely, so once you’re under the head you get predictable lifting without tearing the wood to pieces.

On the opposite end, the pointed tip is intentionally sharp and tapered. It’s meant for digging and for reaching in tight where a full claw won’t fit. Add in the two nail slots—one a touch wider for larger fasteners—and you’ve essentially got three pulling profiles in a single, compact tool.

Pulling power and control

This bar hits a sweet spot for nail sizes. It will handle framing nails and deck screws pulled with the heads intact, yet it’s nimble enough to coax out finish nails and brads without chewing the surface—provided you use a shim or tap the claw in carefully. For heavier spikes or ring-shank nails in dense framing, the 10-inch length limits sheer leverage, but the claw geometry does a lot of the work. A couple of accurate strikes on the back and the teeth bite in cleanly. Once the head is lifted, I often flip to the narrower slot for a more secure grip and roll the claw to finish.

I was impressed by how little collateral damage it leaves when you use it with a bit of technique. If you’ve got to preserve trim or reuse boards, set a sacrificial shim or a thin putty knife under the fulcrum. The curved claw spreads load well, so you’re not crushing fibers right at the pivot point. On siding replacements and deck board swaps, this saved me time on patching.

The nail digger that actually helps

The integrated nail digger (dimpler) is better executed than most. Tapping the pointed end creates a neat crater around a buried head so the claw can catch. In pine, SPF, or most plywoods, it’s quick and clean. In old oak or tight-grain fir, you still need to be patient—score the paint first and take smaller taps. The dimpler won’t make miracles happen when a fastener is snapped or deeply countersunk, but it reliably turns “invisible” heads into accessible ones. I also like that the point is precise enough to split caulk lines and pop small drywall nails without wandering.

Accuracy under a hammer

Being able to set the claw exactly where you want it matters. The wider strike surface is easy to hit, and the mass behind it is enough to penetrate without a dozen wild blows. I’ve used the back of the bar as an improvised hammer for tacks or to start a finish nail; it’s not a replacement for a real hammer, but in a pinch, it works. More importantly, the flat face doesn’t skate on the handle of your hammer the way rounded backs do, so you waste less motion.

Durability and maintenance

After prying through pallet boards, old deck planks, and a handful of trim removals, the tips still hold their shape. The steel is hard enough to resist mushrooming but not so brittle that it chips at the corners. That said, like any cat’s paw, it’s not a cold chisel—if you pry sideways with the tip buried deep or use it as a lever in a tight joint, you’re asking for damage. Keep the loads in line with the shaft and avoid twisting at the very tip.

I touched up the edges once with a file to keep them keen; that’s normal maintenance for this style of tool. The black oxide will wear on the high-contact surfaces, but that’s cosmetic. Toss a light coat of oil on it if it lives in a damp truck box.

Fit and finish details

• Two nail slots provide real utility, not just marketing. The smaller slot grips brads and 15–16 gauge finish nails well; the larger slot grabs framing nails and screws with intact heads.
• The curve of the claw and the symmetry of the prongs make it easier to slip under a head without rocking side-to-side. That symmetry translates to fewer gouges.
• The shaft’s slim profile slides into tight places where a flat bar can’t, yet it’s stout enough not to twist under typical prying.

If I could tweak one thing, I’d thin the very leading edge of the primary claw by a hair. It’s already pretty sharp out of the box, but a slightly finer taper would help in painted trim where you want the claw to sneak under without lifting the paint film. It’s a minor wish; a couple passes with a file accomplish the same.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Shines:
- Deck board replacement and remodeling tear-out where you need to preserve surrounding wood
- Pulling buried nails in framing without a sawzall
- Trim removal in conjunction with a stiff putty knife or shim
- Service work where a compact, do-it-all puller beats hauling two different paws

Less ideal:
- Absolutely delicate work on softwood moldings without using a protective shim
- Heavy demolition where a 12–15 inch bar or a dedicated wrecking bar offers more leverage
- Twisting pries or prying against masonry edges—the sharp tips are for nails, not stone

Comparisons and carry

Compared to many similarly sized paws, this one feels more balanced. Some bars have stout bodies with tips that are too blunt. Others are thin and sharp but flexy. This finds the middle. The I-beam keeps it stiff, and the edges are ready to work right away; I didn’t feel the need to regrind the tips out of the package.

It also carries better than it looks. The 10-inch length drops into a standard pouch and doesn’t snag. Because it’s relatively light, I didn’t notice it fatiguing my belt—something that does happen with heavier forged paws on long days.

Practical tips for best results

• Score painted surfaces before digging to avoid lifting large chips.
• Use a thin steel shim under the fulcrum to protect finished surfaces.
• Start with short, controlled taps to set the claw. Once you feel bite, roll with steady pressure—don’t yank.
• If the head is truly buried, use the dimpler to expose just enough metal to catch with the small slot, then switch to the large slot for the final pull.
• Maintain the edges with a fine file; a minute of maintenance saves minutes of fighting stubborn nails.

Verdict and recommendation

This 10-inch claw bar gets the fundamentals right: a sharp, symmetrical claw; a confidence-inspiring strike face; and a stiff, lightweight shaft. It’s compact enough for finish work but tough enough to pull framing nails, and the pointed end with a functional dimpler adds real capability rather than gimmickry. Over time, the black oxide will wear and you’ll want to touch up the tips, but the core performance is strong and consistent.

I recommend this claw bar for carpenters, remodelers, and maintenance techs who need a single, go-to nail puller that can cover most tasks without babying it. If your day is heavy demo, you’ll still want a longer wrecking bar for leverage. And if you only work on delicate trim, pair it with a wider flat bar and always use a shim. For everyone in the middle—which is most of us—this is a smart, durable pick that earns its spot in the everyday kit.