Bosch 3/8" x 12" SDS-plus Rebar Cutter

A straightforward cutter for on-the-job rebar encounters

Halfway through a 5/8-inch anchor hole, I heard the familiar ping and the drill stopped advancing—steel. Instead of forcing a masonry bit through rebar (and wrecking the edge), I swapped in the Bosch rebar cutter. It’s a simple accessory with an SDS-plus shank, a 3/8-inch cutting capacity, and enough reach (12 inches overall, 10 inches working length) to handle most anchor depths. There isn’t much mystery here: it’s designed to do one job, and in my experience it does it reliably.

Setup and compatibility

The cutter drops into an SDS-plus rotary hammer without drama. If your hammer has a hammer-stop or rotation-only mode, use it—this style of cutter is meant to cut, not be pounded. I ran it on a mid-tier SDS-plus rotary hammer and had no issues with fit or retention. The 12-inch overall length feels natural in hand and gives decent sightlines to the work; you can still control feed pressure without the bit feeling whippy or distant from the tool.

For best results, I recommend having three things ready before you start:
- A sharp SDS-plus masonry bit to drill your pilot hole up to the steel
- Cutting fluid or light oil to keep the cutter cool
- A way to clear chips—back the tool out regularly and wipe away swarf

Those small steps make a noticeable difference in both speed and cutter life.

Cutting performance

I approached a piece of #3 rebar (3/8-inch) inside a cured slab, transitioning from a 5/8-inch pilot hole. The cutter engaged predictably, without the chattering you get when a dull bit rides the bar. With moderate pressure and cutting oil, I was able to establish a groove quickly and maintain a steady, controlled cut through the bar. Progress isn’t instant—this is still steel, not butter—but the pace is very workable and, importantly, consistent. I never felt the need to lean on the tool to force it.

Once through, switching back to the masonry bit to finish the hole felt seamless. The rebar ends were clean enough that the masonry bit picked up immediately without catching on jagged edges or walking off center. That’s a good sign that the cutter is holding its edge and tracking square to the hole.

Heat management and durability

Like any steel-cutting operation, heat is the enemy. I ran the cutter in rotation-only at a conservative speed, fed a few drops of oil into the hole, and worked in short cycles—cut, back out, brush chips, oil, repeat. With that routine, the cutter stayed reasonably cool and the cutting edge remained crisp after multiple bars. Neglect those steps and you’ll feel it heat-soak quickly, with a drop in cutting speed that tells you you’re cooking the edge.

The shank connection remained tight throughout my sessions, and I didn’t see any alarming runout or wobble. There’s enough mass at the business end that it resists ringing or chattering if you keep your feed steady. I wouldn’t call it a delicate tool, but it pays to treat it like a cutter, not a punch: rotation, lubrication, and patience will give you the longevity you’re after.

Length and access

The 10-inch working length is a sweet spot for most anchor and through-bolt scenarios. I could address steel in deeper holes without contorting the tool or worrying about chuck clearance at the surface. In overhead work, the extra reach also keeps chips and oil a hair farther from your face—a small but appreciated comfort. If you routinely drill exceptionally deep holes, you may want a longer option, but for general commercial and residential work, this length is extremely practical.

Accuracy and hole quality

A rebar cutter’s job is to get you past the bar without making a mess of the hole. In concrete where the pilot was straight, the cutter tracked well and kept the bore aligned. The cut produced controllable chips rather than long, stringy swarf, which made clearing the hole simple. After cutting, I could reinsert the masonry bit and finish with minimal breakout at the exit side.

It’s worth noting: your pilot hole matters. If you’ve already drifted while drilling concrete, the cutter won’t magically pull you back on line. Mark your hole, let the masonry bit establish itself, and only switch when you actually touch steel.

Workflow tips that made a difference

• Run in rotation-only. Hammering risks chipping the cutting edge and stalling progress.
• Moderate RPM, steady feed. High speed isn’t your friend here; let the cutter bite and work.
• Use oil. Even a small amount of cutting fluid increases speed and prolongs life.
• Clear chips often. Back the cutter out to break and evacuate chips; you’ll feel the difference.
• Switch back to a masonry bit promptly after cutting through. Don’t keep spinning the cutter in concrete.

These aren’t exotic techniques, but following them turns a frustrating rebar encounter into a straightforward two-minute detour.

Where it fits and where it doesn’t

This rebar cutter shines as an embedded-bar problem solver. It’s ideal for:
- Anchors and through-holes in rebar-reinforced concrete
- Situations where you need to preserve the masonry bit’s edge
- Work that benefits from a compact, SDS-plus compatible solution

It’s not intended for:
- Cutting loose, free-standing rebar stock (use a saw, grinder, or dedicated cutter)
- Bars larger than 3/8-inch (#3). If you routinely hit #4 or bigger, you need a larger-capacity cutter.
- Hammer-only or impact use. Wrong tool for the job.

As long as you respect those boundaries, the tool stays within its comfort zone and delivers consistently.

Build and handling impressions

The SDS-plus shank engages positively and feels snug in a couple of different hammers I tried. Balance is acceptable for a 12-inch accessory; I never felt like I was fighting leverage or whip. Surface finish and edges looked clean out of the package, and after several cuts the working end showed normal polishing rather than chipping or deformation. The single-pack format makes sense: this isn’t a consumable you burn through daily, but a specialty accessory you keep in the kit for when you need it.

Value and alternatives

There are other ways to get past rebar—grinding a slot, switching to a bimetal hole saw, or trying to bully through with a masonry bit—but each comes with downsides: poor hole quality, awkward setups, or premature bit wear. The Bosch rebar cutter takes the straightforward route: cut the steel, finish the hole, move on.

If you frequently hit rebar, a locator can help you avoid bars entirely. In structural work where placement is critical, avoidance may be the better strategy. But when you can’t avoid it, having a cutter matched to your hammer’s SDS-plus interface is the most efficient fix.

The bottom line

I appreciate tools that do one job well, and this rebar cutter fits that category. It pairs cleanly with common SDS-plus hammers, has enough reach for typical anchor depths, and, with basic cutting practices, maintains a clean, steady cut through 3/8-inch rebar. It’s not a magic wand—feed it too fast, skip the oil, or try to beat on bigger bar, and you’ll be disappointed. Use it as intended, and it turns a potential showstopper into a manageable pause in your drilling workflow.

Recommendation: I recommend this tool if you routinely drill anchors in reinforced concrete and want a reliable, SDS-plus-compatible way to get through 3/8-inch rebar without ruining your masonry bits. It’s a straightforward, durable solution that rewards proper technique and earns its keep the first time you hit steel mid-hole. If your work regularly encounters larger bars, look for a higher-capacity cutter; otherwise, this one’s a solid addition to the kit.