DeWalt 1/2 in. (13mm) VSR Dual-Range Hammer Drill

A familiar form factor with a few meaningful upgrades

I picked up the DW505 for a run of light masonry and framing work: anchors in cured concrete, tapcons in brick, and a batch of 1-1/2 in holes through studs for plumbing. It’s the archetype of a corded hammer drill—compact, keyed 1/2 in chuck, dual-range gearing, and a simple hammer/drill selector. That simplicity is the appeal. No fancy electronics, just a 7.8 A motor pushing up to 46,000 BPM and 2,700 RPM with enough torque in low gear to keep large spade bits moving.

The body is lean for a 1/2 in class tool. At 4.8 lb, it’s easy to manage overhead and on ladders. The two-finger rubber trigger is smooth and predictable, and the lock-on helps when you’re boring a run of identical holes. The 360° auxiliary handle is secure, has positive detents, and the depth rod is actually usable—stays put and doesn’t rattle out. Mine arrived without a case; if you want a box, you’ll need the kit variant. The chuck key ships with a rubber tether, which I looped onto the cord so it doesn’t walk off.

Controls and gearing: straightforward, with one quirk

There are four essentials to learn:

• Hammer/drill slider: snicks positively between pure drill and percussion.
• High/low gear selector: the “shift knob” on top.
• Forward/reverse rocker: above the trigger.
• Variable-speed trigger with lock-on button.

Two notes from use. First, the high/low gear selector occasionally needs the chuck rotated slightly to mesh the gearbox. Feathering the trigger and turning the chuck by hand seats it; once you know the trick, it’s a two-second move, but it caught me the first few times. Second, the forward/reverse rocker sits fairly flush. It’s big enough for gloved use, but I had to build that muscle memory to find it quickly with my thumb.

Masonry performance: quick holes, moderate duty cycle

With good carbide bits, the DW505 drills clean 3/16–5/16 in holes in brick and block in high gear at a brisk pace. For 3/8–1/2 in holes in cured concrete, low gear is the right choice: the bit stays planted, percussion feels tighter, and dust clears better. I ran a dozen 3/8 in anchor holes into a 4,000 PSI slab and time-per-hole was respectable for a hammer drill in this amp class.

Heat management is where you need to pay attention. In continuous concrete work—think a long string of anchors without a pause—the motor housing gets hot. That’s expected in a compact 7.8 A hammer drill, but it means adopting a sane duty cycle: drill two or three holes, blow out dust, mark the next set, then resume. If you push it non-stop on dense, cured concrete, you’ll feel the temperature climb and smell warm windings—your cue to let it idle and cool. For daily heavy masonry, I’d step up to an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer; for intermittent anchors and occasional tapcons, this tool is perfectly capable and much lighter.

Practical tips that helped:
- Use sharp, quality SDS‑style carbide bits with a straight shank or premium masonry bits; cheap bits double your time and heat.
- Let the percussion work—moderate pressure, keep the bit cutting.
- Clean the flutes often. Dust impaction is the enemy of speed and motor temps.

Wood and metal: where the dual range shines

In wood, the DW505 feels more like a stout 1/2 in drill than a hammer drill pretending to be one. Low gear has the torque to keep a 1-1/2 in spade bit moving through studs without stalling. The side handle earns its keep when a spade catches; there’s no mechanical clutch, so brace properly. High gear is excellent for pilots and countersinks, and the trigger modulation is fine enough to start screws without skating.

Metal work is about control. In low gear with a dab of cutting fluid, I punched clean 1/2 in holes through mild steel angle. The keyed chuck holds round-shank bits firmly under vibration—this is a case where keyed beats keyless. The motor delivers an even power curve; you can creep along at low RPM to avoid blueing, or ramp up smoothly as chips form.

Vibration, noise, and ergonomics

Percussion vibration is present, but not fatiguing, partly because the tool is relatively light and the side handle lets you hold it in a stable, neutral posture. The rubber trigger and overmold at contact points help, though there’s no active vibration control. Noise levels in hammer mode are high as expected; hearing protection is wise.

The 8 ft cord reaches more than most, and the strain relief is generous. Balance is neutral with a bit in the chuck, and it feels shorter than its 13 in spec when working in studs. With gloves on, all controls are accessible, and the depth rod is legible at a glance.

Build and reliability notes

Fit and finish are solid—no wobble in the selector, no play in the chuck jaws. The chuck runs true under load, which you notice on small masonry bits that otherwise tend to wander. Over several weeks, I did notice the gearbox area getting warm during extended hammering, but no discoloration or performance drop followed after cooling. The top gear selector has a little lateral play compared to heavier, jam‑pot housings on higher‑amp drills; it’s not a problem, just a tactile difference.

The warranty is reassuring: 3‑year limited, 1 year of free service, and a 90‑day money‑back window. For a corded tool in this price band, that’s about as good as it gets.

Where it fits in a kit

• Ideal for: remodelers, facility maintenance, and serious DIYers who need one corded tool to cover light to moderate masonry, plus plenty of wood and metal drilling.
• Less ideal for: crews drilling dozens of 1/2 in holes in cured concrete day-in/day-out; you’ll move faster and run cooler with an SDS‑Plus rotary hammer.
• Also consider: if your typical load includes frequent 3/4 in masonry or you want a heavier-duty housing, a higher‑amp hammer drill or dedicated rotary hammer could be a better primary tool.

The good and the could‑be‑better

What I like
- Strong, compact 7.8 A motor with a useful dual‑range gearbox
- Keyed 1/2 in chuck that actually holds in hammer mode
- Light weight with excellent balance and a secure, 360° side handle
- Variable trigger control that’s easy to meter
- Longish 8 ft cord and practical depth rod
- Versatility across masonry, wood, and metal without feeling like a compromise

What I’d improve
- Heat buildup during extended concrete drilling—needs mindful duty cycles
- High/low gear engages best with the chuck rotated; a more positive detent would help
- Forward/reverse rocker could be more pronounced for gloved indexing
- No clutch—use the side handle and respect bind‑ups

Recommendation

I recommend the DW505 for anyone who wants a dependable, no‑nonsense corded hammer drill that pulls double duty as a capable 1/2 in drill. It covers the common jobs—anchors in brick and block, tapcons in concrete, spade and hole‑saw work in framing, and clean holes in steel—without straining a 15 A circuit, and it’s light enough to use all day. The dual‑range gearbox and keyed chuck make it feel composed across small and large bits, and the ergonomics are well sorted.

The caveat is duty cycle in dense concrete. If your week looks like back‑to‑back 3/8–1/2 in holes in cured slab, a rotary hammer will be faster and kinder to your wrists and the motor. For everyone else—remodelers, maintenance techs, and homeowners who want one corded drill that does most things well—the DW505 hits a practical sweet spot in power, weight, and control.