Crivon 2-Pack for Dewalt 20V Battery Adapter for Power Wheels: Power Tool Drill Battery Adapter Converter for Power Wheels RC Car Battery Connector Upgrade Accessories Conversion Kit with 30A Fuse 12AWG Wire

Why I reached for this adapter

I keep a small fleet of 20V MAX Dewalt batteries in the shop, so being able to repurpose them as a portable DC power source is a recurring theme in my projects. The Crivon adapter turned out to be a straightforward way to bring those packs into kids’ ride-on toys, small RC builds, and even quick-and-dirty portable power setups. I’ve used a lot of generic battery adapters over the years; some fit loosely, some get warm under load, and some hide cut corners in the wiring. This one aims higher with a snug slide-in fit, 12 AWG silicone leads, and an inline 30A fuse with a weather cap.

Setup and compatibility

Installation is simple. The adapter slides onto any Dewalt 20V MAX/18V slide battery (DCB series) and positively locks with a reassuring click. The housing geometry is correct; no wobble, no forced fit. Two countersunk mounting holes on the adapter make anchoring inside a battery compartment easy. In a Power Wheels Jeep conversion, I pre-drilled the tray, added short spacers to keep the terminals clear, and fixed the adapter in place with machine screws and nyloc nuts.

Crivon includes lever-style wire connectors and an inline fuse holder with spare fuses. The lever connectors make fast, tool-free joins for testing or temporary setups. For permanent installs subject to vibration (ride-ons, scooters), I recommend crimped ring terminals or soldered connections with heat shrink. The 12 AWG silicone-insulated leads are flexible and handle routing in tight spaces without kinking.

A couple of important notes:
- This is not a charger. It passes the battery’s pack voltage directly.
- Dewalt “20V MAX” packs sit around 20.0–20.4V fully charged (18V nominal). Many ride-on toys are designed for 12V SLA. If your device expects 12V, you either need a DC-DC converter or you accept the speed/heat tradeoffs of higher voltage and upgrade components accordingly.
- Always confirm polarity (red positive, black negative) before tying into a harness.

Performance in real use

On a Power Wheels Jeep originally running a tired 12V lead-acid battery, the adapter paired with a 5Ah Dewalt pack transformed both torque and speed. Starts were cleaner, hill climbs were less labored, and runtime essentially tracked battery capacity: a 5Ah pack gave us around 35–45 minutes of mixed driving (flat grass, some inclines), while a 2Ah pack was more of a 10–15 minute “burst.” Swapping packs is trivially fast, and that alone beats wrestling with SLA chargers.

Thermals stayed reasonable with stock motors and wheels, though extended hill climbs pushed the inline fuse and connectors to warm-to-the-touch. That’s expected at higher current peaks. I didn’t see discoloration, softening, or voltage sag beyond what the battery’s own electronics allow. If you plan on running upgraded motors or heavy gearing, consider:
- Keeping wire runs as short as possible.
- Using high-quality crimp lugs and ring terminals.
- Confirming your switches and foot pedals are rated for the higher voltage/current.

I also used the second adapter as a general-purpose DC source for a portable work light and a 12V fan (via a buck converter set to 12.2V). For those lighter loads, the adapter is effectively invisible—no warmth, no voltage drop you’d care about, and the locking mechanism makes it feel like a factory solution.

Build quality and safety

The housing is ABS, heat-resistant and rigid enough, though not tank-like. It’s in line with most better aftermarket adapters I’ve handled. The slide rails and latch geometry match Dewalt’s battery profile well; there’s no scraping or odd wear after dozens of insertions. The 12 AWG silicone copper leads are the right call—flexible, good strand count, and appropriately sized for the use case.

The inline fuse holder ships with 30A fuses and a cap that seals well enough for dust and splashes. For most ride-on toys running stock 550/775 motors, 30A provides protection without nuisance blowing. If you’re popping fuses on aggressive builds, don’t just blindly bump to a larger fuse—evaluate your wiring, connectors, and motor load. A larger fuse without upgraded wire and connectors can shift the weak point to somewhere you really don’t want it.

A few safety habits that pay off:
- Remove the battery from the adapter when not in use. It prevents parasitic drain and accidental shorts during tinkering.
- Strain-relieve the leads if the adapter is mounted where wires can be tugged.
- Verify polarity with a multimeter before first power-up. Wire colors on toys are not always trustworthy.

What I liked

• Reliable fit: Secure engagement with Dewalt DCB packs; zero wiggle.
• Thoughtful kit: Two adapters, two fuse holders, spare fuses, and quick connectors make this immediately useful.
• Proper wire gauge: 12 AWG silicone leads are flexible and up to the task for most toy conversions and DIY projects.
• Sensible protection: Inline 30A fuse with a weather cap is the right baseline for this category.
• Mounting options: Integrated screw holes make clean installs easier.

What could be better

• Lever connectors are best for light-duty or testing. For long-term, high-vibration installs, you should upgrade to crimped or soldered connections.
• The housing is competent, not premium. It’s sturdy enough, but if you’re expecting overmolded rubber or thick polycarbonate, this isn’t that.
• Leads are on the shorter side, which is common, but you’ll likely splice extensions for larger toys. Keep those joins high quality to minimize resistance and heat.
• No on/off switch. I actually prefer it this way—fewer failure points—but some users might want a built-in cutoff.

Practical tips from the bench

• Start with a fresh, known-good battery: Weak packs exaggerate voltage sag and can trigger nuisance fuse blows.
• Match the fuse to the build: If stock motors are getting warm quickly, the issue isn’t the fuse; it’s gearing, voltage, or load.
• Consider a DC-DC converter for 12V devices: If you want cool-running components and predictable speed, a buck converter set to 12V keeps legacy toys in their happy zone.
• Use a proper crimp tool: Insulated ring terminals and heat shrink go a long way toward reliability.
• Keep airflow in mind: Ride-on compartments can trap heat. A few ventilation holes make a difference under heavy use.

Who it’s for

• Parents and hobbyists upgrading ride-on toys who already own Dewalt 20V batteries.
• DIYers looking for a compact, swappable DC source for lights, pumps, fans, and small robotics.
• Tinkerers who value quick installs but are comfortable making permanent connections for reliability when needed.

If you don’t have Dewalt batteries, this won’t make sense as your first step. Also, if your goal is to strictly maintain 12V operation, plan on adding a buck converter; the adapter alone does not regulate voltage.

Longevity and maintenance

Over several weeks of weekend use, insertion wear is minimal and electrical performance hasn’t drifted. I swap fuses proactively after any event that feels like a hard stall or tangle of the wheels, but the originals are still going. As with any high-current, low-voltage system, periodic checks help: inspect for warm connectors, retighten any screws, and keep the battery rails clean.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Crivon adapter. It earns its keep with a secure battery fit, appropriate wire gauge, and included inline fusing that’s suited to the loads most people will throw at it. As a two-pack, it’s good value—one for the toy, one for general shop power or a second build. It’s not a cure-all: you still need to mind voltage compatibility, use quality connections, and respect current limits. But as a foundation for repurposing Dewalt 20V packs into portable DC power, it’s a solid, dependable choice.