Why this 3/8-inch bit has earned a spot in my everyday kit

I reach for a 3/8-inch bit more than almost any other size, whether I’m boring clearance holes in framing, running hardware through sheet goods, or opening up pilot holes in metal brackets. After several weeks using Black & Decker’s bullet-tip 3/8-inch bit on wood, metal, and plastic, I can say it’s a straightforward, general-purpose workhorse that’s easy to live with and predictable in the cut. It’s not a specialty bit and doesn’t pretend to be one—but that’s part of its appeal.

Design and build

This is a standard-shank, high-speed steel bit with a bullet-style tip. The point geometry is meant to reduce walking at the start of a hole, especially on wood and plastics where a conventional 118° twist bit can skate. The shank is smooth (not hex), so it fits common 3/8- and 1/2-inch chucks on both corded and cordless drill drivers. There’s no coating advertised here—no cobalt, no titanium nitride—just a classic, general-purpose steel bit meant for everyday drilling.

The bit comes as a single piece (no set, no case), and it’s light enough that it doesn’t feel nose-heavy in a compact drill. Flute finish is clean with no obvious burrs out of the package, and runout in my testing was minimal when chucked properly.

Setup and compatibility

I ran the bit in both a 20V compact drill/driver and a corded 8-amp drill. The bit seated squarely and held grip without slipping. Because it’s a round shank, it’s not impact-driver-ready; you’ll need a keyed or keyless drill chuck. That’s par for the course in this category, but it’s worth noting if your kit leans heavily on hex-shank accessories.

Performance in wood

In softwoods (SPF studs and construction-grade plywood), the bullet tip did what it’s supposed to do: it grabbed cleanly and stayed on line without needing a punch mark. I got smooth entries and minimal tear-out on the exit side when I backed the workpiece. In hardwoods (red oak and maple), the bit still tracked true, though feed pressure needed to be more deliberate to maintain chip evacuation.

• Entry accuracy: Very good on flat surfaces; the point settles quickly and resists skating.
• Hole quality: Clean walls with predictable sizing. The bit produced true 3/8-inch clearance holes that accept bolts and bushings without slop in wood.
• Speed suggestions: For softwood, I had good results around 1,500–2,000 RPM with a steady feed. In hardwood, dropping to 800–1,200 RPM helped keep heat down and edges crisp.

Compared to brad-point bits, you lose the ultra-clean rim that those give in furniture-grade work, but for framing, jig building, and general shop tasks, this bit leaves a tidy, functional hole. Chip evacuation is solid for through-holes in 2x material; pecking helps if you’re drilling deep.

Performance in metal

On mild steel angle and sheet, the bit surprised me with confident starts—better than a generic 118° bit—though I still prefer a quick center punch for precise location, especially on rounded or painted surfaces. The cutting edges held up well over a small run of holes in 1/8-inch stock using light oil.

• Starting: Good for general layout; use a punch if accuracy is critical.
• Speeds and technique: Aim for lower RPMs—roughly 600–900 RPM on mild steel for a 3/8-inch bit. Use cutting oil, keep steady pressure, and peck to clear chips to avoid work-hardening.
• Materials: It handled aluminum cleanly at higher RPMs. I wouldn’t pick it for stainless; that’s cobalt territory. It will manage a couple of careful holes in thin stainless if cooled and oiled, but it’s not the right tool for repeated use on hard alloys.

On steel, the bullet tip doesn’t eliminate the need for proper technique, but it reduces the initial chatter and wander you get with bargain-basement bits. Edge retention is what I’d expect of a good, general-purpose HSS bit.

Performance in plastic

The bit cuts ABS and PVC well at low to moderate speeds. In acrylic, you’ll want to slow down (400–800 RPM), lighten your feed pressure near breakthrough, and consider stepping up through smaller sizes to prevent cracking. The tip helps get the hole started without skating across the surface, which is particularly useful on smooth plastic housings.

Accuracy and hole quality

Using calipers, my holes in clear pine and in mild steel plate measured right on spec for a 3/8-inch twist bit, with the expected minor variance from drill press vs. handheld work. There was no noticeable bell-mouthing when I kept the bit square and cleared chips. In plywood, backing the exit side prevented splintering; without a backer, you’ll see moderate breakout—consistent with any standard twist bit.

Durability and resharpening

Edge life has been solid for general shop use. After multiple holes in hardwood and mild steel, a touch of honing would bring it back to near-factory performance. Because it’s a bullet-tip grind, resharpening freehand is a little more nuanced than a straight 118° point, but a basic drill bit sharpening guide makes quick work of it. Heat management matters; if you avoid blueing the edges, the bit keeps its bite.

I didn’t notice any flute galling or chips along the cutting lips after normal use. If you do plan frequent drilling in steel, keep oil handy and slow the RPM to extend the edge life.

Limitations

• Not a hex shank: Won’t lock into an impact driver. You’ll need a drill chuck.
• Not a specialty metal bit: For stainless or repeated steel work, a cobalt or TiN-coated split-point bit will outperform it.
• Starting on curved or painted metal: The tip helps, but a punch mark still improves accuracy.
• Finish quality in fine woodworking: It’s clean enough for utility work; for flawless rims on veneer or laminates, a brad-point or Forstner bit is a better choice.

None of these are deal-breakers for a general-purpose bit, but they’re worth planning around.

Practical tips from the job

• Mark or punch metal. Even with the bullet tip, a quick punch gives clean, precise starts on metal.
• Match the speed to the material. Fast in wood, slow in metal; let the chips tell you if you’re in the right zone.
• Back up the exit side. A sacrificial board prevents blowout in plywood and laminates.
• Use pecking in deep holes. Retracting clears chips and keeps temperatures in check.
• Oil steel and aluminum. A drop of cutting fluid or light oil extends the bit’s life and improves finish.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and pros who need a reliable 3/8-inch bit for mixed materials.
• Users who primarily drill wood and occasional metal without needing a specialized set.
• Anyone who wants predictable starts and clean holes from a single, affordable bit.

If your work leans heavily into stainless or precision metal fabrication, look to cobalt split-point bits. If you’re building fine furniture, brad-point or Forstner bits have the edge for surface finish. For everything else, this bit covers a lot of ground.

Bottom line and recommendation

This 3/8-inch bullet-tip bit is a solid, go-to option for everyday drilling across wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics. The tip geometry makes starts easier and more accurate, especially on wood and smooth plastics, and the standard shank plays nicely with the drills most people already own. It isn’t a specialty cutter, and it doesn’t pretend to be; instead, it delivers consistent, clean holes with minimal fuss when you use reasonable speeds and basic technique.

I recommend this bit. It’s a dependable, general-purpose choice that balances start control, hole quality, and durability at a reasonable cost. If you need one 3/8-inch bit to live in your drill case for jobs around the shop and on site, this one earns its keep.