DeWalt 24-ft Aluminum 250-lb Type I Extension Ladder

Why I reached for this ladder

I picked up the DeWalt 24-foot extension ladder because I needed a reliable way to reach second-story eaves, run exterior cameras, and handle seasonal gutter work without wrestling with a too-heavy, too-flexy setup. The unit I tested came in a matte black finish that looks sharp and tends to hide scuffs better than bright colors. After several weeks of use on concrete, compacted soil, and turf, I’ve got a clear sense of where this ladder shines and where it’s merely serviceable.

Build, rating, and first impressions

This is a Type I aluminum extension ladder rated for a 250 lb load capacity. Type I is common on jobsites and plenty for many pros and serious DIYers, but it’s worth stating the obvious: if you regularly haul heavy tool belts, buckets, or materials aloft, a 300 lb Type IA ladder gives you more headroom. For my typical workload—hand tools, light fasteners, small devices—the 250 lb rating was sufficient.

At 39 pounds, it’s not featherweight, but for a 24-footer it’s manageable. The closed length is 12 feet, so it fits in a full-size truck bed diagonally with a flag, and it stores against a garage wall without dominating the space. The rails feel stout without excessive flex under load, and DeWalt’s “twist protection” seems to translate into less torsional wiggle than I’ve felt on bargain ladders of similar size. I noticed less side-to-side yaw when stepping across rungs mid-span, which boosts confidence.

Fit and finish are better than average: hardware is cleanly installed, the rope-and-pulley runs smoothly, and the slip-resistant rungs are straight and consistent.

Capacity, reach, and what it actually gets you

Specs say the total length is 24 feet, with a maximum extended length of 21 feet. In real use, that puts you in range for most two-story first-eave tasks. As always, remember you shouldn’t stand on the top few rungs of an extension ladder. Plan on a practical maximum standing height around the 17-foot neighborhood, depending on your comfort level and strict adherence to safe climbing practices. If you need to comfortably reach ridge lines or tall second-story windows, consider stepping up a size.

On a typical house with eaves at 18–20 feet, I was able to set the ladder at a safe 4:1 angle and still work on gutters and camera mounts without feeling overextended. The 17.5-inch outside width is standard; it won’t feel as planted as a wide-base specialty ladder, but stability was solid as long as the feet were set correctly.

Rungs and ergonomics

D-shaped, serrated rungs are the right call here. The flat surface offers better boot contact than round rungs, and the serrations provide grip without chewing soles. I spent extended time stepping up and down while routing cable, and foot fatigue was minimal. The rung edges are clean—no burrs or hotspots—so sliding your feet to adjust stance isn’t a chore.

Hand placement is straightforward. The non-marring plastic hand grips are a thoughtful touch when you’re carrying or repositioning the ladder against painted trim. They also make it easier to control the rails with gloved hands.

RungLock, rope, and pulleys

The RungLock system engages positively and didn’t let the fly section creep under load, even with some minor bounce while drilling overhead. The hooks sit cleanly on the rungs without a lot of slop, so you don’t get that unnerving clank-and-shift when you transfer weight. I appreciate that the locks are intuitive to operate even with gloves on.

The rope-and-pulley setup is smooth and geared for one-person operation. Raising the fly section is controlled; it doesn’t jump or snag. There’s no fancy rope management, so you’re still tying off the excess or looping it—basic but fine. If you’re working in the wet, the rope has enough grip to pull without slipping through fingers, but it’s not a high-friction “sailing” line either. No complaints.

Shoes, ground contact, and real-world stability

The dual-action shoes pivot between a rubber tread and a spike. On finished surfaces—garage floors, pavers, stamped concrete—the tread side stayed planted without leaving marks. On grass and compacted soil, flipping to spikes stopped the gradual walkout I sometimes see when the ground gets dusty or the angle is a little shallow. The shoe pivots are tight enough to hold orientation; they don’t flop around when you reposition the ladder.

I also liked the shoe footprint relative to the ladder’s weight. It inspires confidence, but remember that no shoe design compensates for poor setup. Use a leveler or pad on uneven ground, tie off when you can, and keep that 4:1 angle.

Rigidity and “feel” on the rails

DeWalt’s talk of twist protection isn’t just brochure filler. Compared to generic aluminum ladders I’ve used in this class, this one resists torsion better when you lean sideways to reach a fastener or pull a cable taut. There is still some flex—this is a 24-foot aluminum ladder, not a steel truss—but the elasticity is predictable, and the rails don’t telegraph springiness back into your feet. If you’re used to that trampoline feel on cheaper ladders, this is a pleasant upgrade.

Portability and storage

At 39 pounds and a 12-foot closed length, I can carry it solo for moderate distances, but you’ll feel it on long hauls or stairwells. The balance point is easy to find, and the hand grips help. Loading onto roof racks is a one-person job if your rack height is reasonable; the rails won’t scrape paint if you’re careful thanks to the non-marring grips and shoes.

The black finish looks good and doesn’t show grime, but it can get warm in direct sun. It’s also a bit less conspicuous in dim light than a bright yellow rail, so I’m extra cautious about visibility when working near traffic or around coworkers.

Compliance and safety notes

The ladder meets OSHA and ANSI requirements for its class. That matters for jobsite acceptance and, more importantly, for consistency in design and testing. It’s aluminum, so it is electrically conductive—keep your working environment in mind. If you’re anywhere near live electrical sources, step to fiberglass.

Load capacity is the sum of you plus your gear. A 250 lb rating is fine for many tasks, but be honest about your kit. Heavy material loads, paint buckets, and bulky tools add up quickly. I had no issues within the rating, but if you regularly push the margin, look at a Type IA.

What I’d change

• A brighter visual cue on the rails would improve visibility in low light. Even a contrasting stripe would help.
• A simple rope keeper or cleat would tidy up the tail without improvising knots each time.
• Optional factory levelers would be a welcome add-on for those of us working on uneven landscaping. It’s compatible with third-party solutions, but having a branded, bolt-on option is always cleaner.

None of these are deal-breakers, and most are solvable with accessories or habits.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and pros who need confident reach to first-eave second-story work without jumping to bulkier 28- or 32-foot ladders.
• Users who value a predictable, low-flex climb and firm shoe grip on a variety of surfaces.
• Anyone who prefers a clean, understated finish and doesn’t need a 300 lb rating.

Who should pass: electricians or anyone near live circuits, and users who routinely exceed light-to-moderate carry loads. In those cases, pick fiberglass or a higher duty rating.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt 24-foot extension ladder for users who want a stable, well-built aluminum ladder with a smooth RungLock, solid rope-and-pulley, and genuinely useful dual-action shoes. It hits the sweet spot for exterior home maintenance, camera installs, light fascia work, and seasonal chores, with enough rigidity to feel secure at height. The 250 lb Type I rating is the main limiter; if you need more capacity or non-conductive rails, choose accordingly. For everyone else, this ladder delivers dependable performance without unnecessary complexity.