Skil 10 IN. Drill Press

First impressions and setup

I set this benchtop drill press on a mid-weight shop cart and had it assembled, trammed, and making chips in under an hour. The manual is clear, parts were well packed, and the hardware fit together without fuss. The cast iron base and table give it the right foundation; the column is straight and the rack‑and‑pinion table lift engages smoothly. Out of the box, my table was a hair off square to the bit. Five minutes with a machinist square and the tilt bolts had it dialed in. Once locked, the table holds its position reliably.

Fit and finish are better than I expect at this price. The paint is uniform, castings are clean, and the controls feel positive. The pulleys are a reinforced polymer rather than cast iron. That might sound like a downgrade, but they’re quiet, well balanced, and haven’t given me any trouble. I’d still avoid levering against them during belt changes (more on that below).

The keyed 1/2-inch chuck arrived clean and concentric enough for my work. Measured at the bit shank, runout on my unit hovered in the low thousandths—respectable for a benchtop drill press. The quill moves through its 2‑1/4 inches of travel without noticeable slop, and the adjustable depth stop is both intuitive and repeatable.

Speed range, power, and belt changes

This press uses a simple stepped-pulley system with five speeds from 570 to 3,050 RPM. The range suits most woodworking and light metalwork. I ran Forstners from 3/8 to 1‑1/2 inches in hardwood at the lower speeds without bogging, and twist bits up to 1/2 inch in softwood at midrange speeds with clean results. In steel, 1/4 inch at 570 RPM with oil and a sharp bit was smooth; 3/8 inch took a bit of patience and pecking, but the motor handled it.

Changing speeds requires slackening the motor mount, shifting the belt, and re-tensioning. The system works, but the first few changes were stiffer than I’d like. A couple of tips helped:

• Back off the two locking knobs fully before touching the tension lever.
• Support the motor with your off hand and use steady pressure; don’t pry on the belt.
• Seat the belt fully in the pulley grooves before locking the motor down.
• Aim for about 1/2 inch of belt deflection with moderate finger pressure.

After a short break-in, the action eased up. If you’re hopping speeds frequently, you’ll notice the friction. For batch work, it’s a non-issue—set it once and go.

Power-wise, the 3.2 A motor is honest about what it is. It’s plenty for most bench tasks, not a production animal. Keep bits sharp, use the right speed, and let the tool work. If you routinely drill large holes in dense hardwood or thick steel, you’ll want either a slower low speed or a heavier machine.

Accuracy and repeatability

Before any project, I square the table, check runout with a gauge, and set the depth stop. This press responds well to that kind of basic tune-up. The depth stop has a positive lock and makes repeat drilling simple. On a run of cabinet doors, stopped holes landed within a few thousandths from part to part; that’s exactly why you buy a drill press instead of doing it by hand.

The table tilt scale is a helpful reference but not a substitute for a square or angle gauge. For accurate bevels, set with an external gauge, drill your piece, and then return to 0° using the stop and a quick square check. The rack‑and‑pinion lift makes height changes painless, though like most presses, the table can shift slightly while moving. I raise or lower to height, snug the clamp, and give the surface a light bump before final tightening to take out any play.

The throat capacity (5 inches from column to spindle center) is typical for a 10-inch press. Plan your workholding around that; large panels may need a fence and creative clamping.

Laser, controls, and ergonomics

The two‑beam alignment laser is powered by AA batteries and is easy to calibrate with a scrap board and a small screwdriver. It’s a convenience feature, not a precision instrument. I use it to rough in locations quickly, then confirm with a center punch when precision matters. If you change table height or tilt, expect to recheck the laser alignment.

Controls are laid out sensibly. The bump‑off safety switch is large and reassuring; I can kill power with a tap of a knuckle even while holding a workpiece. The feed handles are smooth, the return spring is consistent, and the chuck key has a dedicated, secure clip—small details that prevent daily annoyances. There’s no built-in work light, so I added a magnetic LED lamp to the column, which makes a big difference in hole quality and safety.

Noise, vibration, and footprint

Mounted on a rigid bench and bolted down, the machine runs with minimal vibration. Belts add a touch of whir at higher speeds, but the overall noise level is shop-friendly. The footprint is compact, which matters in a small shop, and the weight makes it stable without being a bear to move if needed.

As with any drill press, workholding dictates safety and results. A drill press vise or robust clamps on the slotted table is essential; don’t rely on hand pressure alone. The column and base are stout enough that once the work is secured, the bit tracks cleanly without rattling the setup.

Maintenance and tuning

Ownership is simple: keep the column and rack clean, lightly lube moving interfaces, vacuum chips out of the head casting, and keep the belt clean and tensioned. Check spindle runout occasionally and re-seat the chuck if you see changes after a bit catches. Replace the laser batteries yearly or when the beams dim. If you tilt the table often, make “square to bit” verification part of your routine.

I’d also recommend a quick fastener check after the first few hours—pulley set screws, motor mount bolts, and the table clamp. Things settle as the machine breaks in.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Solid, confidence-inspiring base, column, and table
- Repeatable depth stop and smooth quill action
- Usable speed range for most wood and light metal tasks
- Compact form factor with rack‑and‑pinion table lift
- Sensible safety switch and thoughtful touches like the chuck key holder

Limitations:
- Lowest speed of 570 RPM is on the high side for large bits in hardwood or thick steel
- Belt tensioning mechanism works but can feel stiff, especially when new
- Spindle travel of 2‑1/4 inches can require repositioning for deeper holes
- Laser is helpful for rough alignment but needs periodic recalibration

None of these are dealbreakers in a benchtop press; they’re boundaries to work within. For projects like furniture joinery, hardware installation, jigs, small metal brackets, and shop fixtures, the machine delivers predictable, square holes with minimal fuss. For heavy stock removal, very large Forstners, or slow-speed metal drilling, a floor model with more torque and a lower minimum RPM is the better fit.

Final thoughts and recommendation

After weeks of mixed use—hardwood joinery, aluminum brackets, a handful of steel holes, and plenty of jig building—the Skil 10‑inch drill press has earned its place on my bench. It’s not flashy, but it’s competent and consistent. The combination of a rigid chassis, straightforward controls, and a genuinely useful depth stop makes day-to-day work smooth. I’d like an even lower speed and a slightly friendlier belt tension lever; otherwise, it does what a shop drill press should do: drill accurate holes without drama.

Recommendation: I recommend this drill press to hobbyists and small-shop builders who want a compact, reliable machine for wood and light metal. It offers good accuracy, sensible features, and a solid build at a reasonable size and cost. Register the warranty, give the belt system a brief break-in, and outfit it with a proper vise and a task light—you’ll have a capable workhorse that covers the vast majority of benchtop drilling tasks with confidence.