Skil 15-Piece Hex Shank Twist Drill Bit Set

I spend a lot of time swapping between an impact driver and a drill/driver, so hex‑shank bits live in my toolbelt. The Skil hex‑shank set promises quick changes, better starts with a 135° split point, and a modular case that actually plays nicely in a crowded toolbox. After using it across wood, plastics, and mild steel, I have a clear sense of where it shines—and where it doesn’t.

Design and features

This is a 15‑piece set of twist bits with 1/4‑inch hex shanks, intended for both drills and impact drivers. Coverage runs from 1/16 inch up to 3/8 inch, with duplicates at 1/16 and 1/8—smart choices because those are the sizes most prone to breakage. The points are ground to 135° with a split tip, which helps reduce walking when you start a hole, especially on harder surfaces. The black and golden oxide finish is a classic general‑purpose coating: it reduces friction and helps with chip evacuation, but it isn’t a miracle shield against heat.

Storage is a strong point. The modular case interlocks with others and uses snap latches that you can open one‑handed. The bit rails hold pieces securely and the size callouts in the case are easy to read. If you keep multiple accessory cases in a bag or on a shelf, being able to stack and open with one hand is more than a gimmick.

Setup and handling

The hex shanks engage positively in quick‑change collets and standard chucks. That hex interface eliminates the chuck slippage you can get with smooth round shanks, especially on polished bits. One tradeoff with hex‑shank drill bits, in general, is that concentricity can vary more than with finer round‑shank bits; you may notice a touch more wobble on the larger diameters. With this set, the smaller sizes ran true, while the 5/16 and 3/8 showed a hint of runout in my drill press—acceptable for field work, not for precision layout.

Because the shank is fixed at 1/4 inch, you’re driving larger diameters (like 3/8) through a relatively small interface. That’s fine in wood and plastics, but it places real limits on how aggressively you can push those large bits in metal.

Performance in wood and plastics

In softwood, hardwood, MDF, and PVC, the Skil bit set behaved well. The 135° split point did what it’s supposed to: it reduced skating on smooth surfaces and got me clean starts without a punch. In plywood and melamine, I had minimal surface tear‑out when I used fresh bits, and backing the workpiece eliminated blowout on exit. Chip ejection was fine—even on the deeper holes—thanks in part to the oxide finish.

Speed and feed matter here. I ran a drill/driver in high gear for most wood tasks and stepped down to a lower speed for the larger diameters to maintain control. The bits cut smoothly and left holes that measured on target with a pair of calipers. For cabinetry or jig work where a super crisp edge is important, I’d still reach for a brad‑point, but for general drilling these are perfectly serviceable.

Performance in metal

These are not metal‑specialist bits, and they behave like general‑purpose HSS with oxide coating typically does. In thin sheet steel and aluminum, using a center punch, slow RPMs, and light oil, I got accurate holes with modest effort. The split point helped reduce wandering on painted and galvanized surfaces—nice to have when you can’t easily clamp or pilot.

On thicker mild steel (1/8 to 3/16 inch), the story changes. The smaller diameters (up to 3/16) handled single holes fine if I kept the speed low, used oil, and pecked to clear chips. Push past that and the edges lose their bite quicker than I’d like. The 1/16 and 5/64 are as fragile as any small twist bit; I snapped one 1/16 by getting impatient on a tight angle bracket. That’s on me as much as the bit, but it’s a reminder: small bits need alignment, lubrication, and a light touch.

For repeated drilling in angle iron, thick plate, stainless, or hardened fasteners, this is not the set I’d choose. The oxide coating simply doesn’t offer the heat resistance of TiN, nor the red‑hot tolerance of cobalt alloys. Expect to resharpen or replace sooner if you make metal your main diet.

Using an impact driver

Compatibility with impact drivers is handy for on‑site install work. The bits click into a 1/4‑inch collet and resist spinning under torque. I used the set for drilling pilot holes for ledger screws, tapping holes in aluminum channels, and general repair with the same impact I was using to drive fasteners. The convenience is real.

That said, I avoid hammering while drilling metal. The percussive action can chip cutting edges and increase the chance of micro‑fractures in small bits. If your impact has a “drill” mode that defeats the anvil, use it. Otherwise, a standard drill/driver is a safer bet for metals. In wood, the impact’s pulses are less of an issue, but they’re still not necessary.

Durability and edge life

Edge retention is middle‑of‑the‑road. In wood and plastics, I saw consistent performance after dozens of holes, with no noticeable burning or glazing. In metal, life drops as expected for oxide‑coated general‑purpose bits. After a handful of holes in 3/16 mild steel with the 1/4 and 5/16, I could feel the cutting lips losing aggression; a quick touch‑up on a bench grinder restored performance, but not everyone wants to resharpen bits.

If you’re used to premium TiN‑coated or cobalt bits for fabrication, you’ll find the Skil set less durable on ferrous metals. If you mostly work in wood and only occasionally touch steel or aluminum, the durability is acceptable for the price bracket these usually occupy.

Case and organization

The case is legitimately good. The interlocking design keeps multiple cases tidy, the auto‑connect snap latches can be opened with a thumb while you’re holding a drill in the other hand, and the internal bit retention is secure without being a wrestling match. I appreciate the duplicates at 1/16 and 1/8; those are the first sizes I reach for and the first to go missing or snap.

If I could change one thing, it would be even bolder size markings on the bit shanks themselves for quick identification in poor lighting. The case labels are clear, but once the bits are out on a bench, you’re squinting.

Limitations and tips

• For metal: use a center punch, slow the RPMs, use cutting oil, and peck to clear chips. Step up through sizes rather than jumping straight to 3/8.
• For clean wood exits: clamp a backer board to reduce tear‑out, especially in plywood and melamine.
• Avoid impact hammering while drilling metal. Use a drill/driver or defeat the hammer action if your tool allows.
• Don’t lean on small bits. Keep the tool aligned and let the bit cut.

Who it’s for

The Skil hex‑shank set makes sense for installers, remodelers, and DIYers who value quick swaps in an impact driver and do a mix of wood, plastics, and light‑duty metals. It’s a convenient, compact set to keep in a grab‑and‑go bag for on‑site tasks and household fixes. If your day job is fabricating steel, wrenching on cars, or drilling stainless regularly, you’ll be happier with cobalt or premium TiN sets designed for heat and heavy feed rates.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil hex‑shank set for general use, with clear boundaries. It’s a practical, well‑organized kit that performs reliably in wood and plastics and gets the job done in thin metals if you use proper technique. The 135° split points start cleanly, the hex shanks are truly convenient in quick‑change tools, and the case is one of the better designs in this category.

I wouldn’t choose it as a primary metalworking set or for repeated drilling in heavy‑gauge steel. The oxide coating and 1/4‑inch hex interface limit how hard you can push the larger diameters, and edge life in ferrous metals is average. But as a versatile, impact‑friendly set for day‑to‑day tasks, it earns a spot in my kit.