BOWSEN Programmable Thermostat for House Radiant Underfloor Heating, Home Heat Floor Mat Controller self-Adaption AC(120/240V) Voltage, Dual Sensing(Air&Floor Sensor) Built-in Class A GFCI, Power 3600W

What I tested and why

Radiant electric floors are one of those upgrades you only appreciate on a cold morning, and the thermostat you choose can make or break the experience. I installed the Bowsen radiant floor thermostat on a 240V underfloor mat in a small bathroom (about a 12A load) and lived with it through daily schedules and manual overrides. Its promise is straightforward: dual sensing (air and floor), a built‑in Class A GFCI for safety, 7‑day programming, and compatibility with both 120V and 240V circuits up to 15A/3600W. On paper, it checks the right boxes. In practice, it mostly delivered—once I navigated a clunky setup experience.

Installation and wiring

This is a line-voltage thermostat, so power off at the breaker is non-negotiable. Wiring was typical for a floor-heat controller: line in, load out, and a dedicated pair for the included floor sensor probe. The terminals are clearly labeled and the body fits a standard box without fuss. If your heating mat or cable exceeds 15A, you’ll need to drive a contactor rather than connect the load directly; the device isn’t meant to be a whole-house workhorse.

One thoughtful inclusion is the built‑in Class A GFCI. That matters in bathrooms and other wet locations where a separate GFCI breaker might not be present. You get a physical test/reset via a side toggle, which is reassuring because you’re not hunting through menus for a safety function.

A couple of practical tips from my install:
- Run the floor sensor in its own conduit or at least keep it away from power runs to minimize electrical noise.
- Place the sensor bulb in the heated zone, mid-span between cables, not touching a heating wire.
- If you’re replacing an older thermostat, label the supply and load conductors before removing anything. Line-voltage mix-ups are unpleasant.

Setup and programming

This is where the Bowsen’s value mindset shows. The screen is a backlit monochrome LCD with icons for modes and a basic button interface. It works, but the user experience isn’t intuitive. There are two layers of settings:
- Everyday scheduling and temperature setpoints.
- An “installer” or hidden menu where you choose sensor mode (floor, air, or both), temperature units, safety limits, and GFCI alert behavior.

Oddly, many installer options are only accessible when the thermostat is switched off via the physical side switch. That’s not obvious; once you learn it, it’s fine, but the first time feels like guessing the entry code to a safe.

Programming itself is traditional 7‑day scheduling with multiple periods per day. I set a pre‑warm for early mornings, a setback for mid‑day, and an evening comfort period. The mode icons are simple enough once you know them—briefcase for away, moon for night—but there’s a learning curve. After initial setup, I rarely revisited the schedule.

Two concrete suggestions:
- Choose “Air + Floor” if you want the room temperature to govern comfort while the floor sensor enforces a safety cap. For tile I set a max around the low 90s F; for wood or vinyl you’ll want a lower cap to protect the finish, typically 80–85 F.
- Save a photo of your final settings. If you ever reset the unit, re‑creating the configuration is faster with a reference.

Safety and the built‑in GFCI

The GFCI is Class A (5 mA trip threshold) and self-testing, with a manual test/reset. It’s an excellent feature in a line-voltage thermostat and a key reason I wanted to try this model. One quirk: the test will only trip when the thermostat’s relay is actively calling for heat. If you press the test with the setpoint below the current temperature, nothing seems to happen. Turn the setpoint a few degrees higher to energize the relay first, then test.

If the GFCI trips during normal heating, take that seriously. Kill power at the breaker and check your wiring and the heating cable’s insulation resistance. The ability to silence GFCI alerts exists in the installer menu, but I do not recommend disabling anything related to ground-fault protection. If a nuisance trip persists after verifying the load, replace the device or consult an electrician.

Day-to-day performance

Once configured, the Bowsen behaved like a competent radiant floor controller. It drove the 240V load without chatter, the relay engaged cleanly, and temperature regulation was steady. In floor-priority mode, the surface lived in a comfortable band without overshooting to the point of hot spots. In air‑priority mode with a floor limit, the room reached and held the target while the floor sensor kept everything in a safe zone.

The backlight is bright enough to read in low light, and the display shows the essential information without clutter. There’s also a physical ON/STANDBY switch for shutting down heat at the end of the season. I liked having that hard control rather than digging into menus for a permanent hold.

Noise was a non-issue aside from the faint relay click, which is normal for a line-voltage thermostat. If your box is mounted in a hollow wall, you might hear it more, but it’s not intrusive.

Where it falls short

• Documentation and UI: The interface is serviceable but dated, and the manual doesn’t make setup easy. Hiding installer options behind the side switch-off state is the kind of quirk that causes unnecessary support calls.
• Default behaviors: Expect to spend time in the installer menu to verify sensor mode, floor limits, units, and GFCI alert settings. The conservative approach would be to ship with safety features prominently enabled and clearly explained.
• Fit/finish expectations: Everything works, but nothing feels premium. If you’re used to higher-end thermostats with clearer navigation and richer displays, this will feel basic.

I didn’t encounter reliability problems during my test window, but I’d be cautious about burying the unit behind tile without confirming the GFCI and sensor behavior under real load for at least a few cycles.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners upgrading an existing electric radiant floor who need dual-sensor control and built‑in GFCI protection on a 120V or 240V circuit under 15A.
• Budget-conscious projects where safety listing (cETL/UL), line-voltage switching, and 7‑day scheduling matter more than a polished UI.
• Pros comfortable with line-voltage wiring and installer menus who want a practical, code-conscious controller for wet areas.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Anyone who wants app control, learning algorithms, energy reports, or a slick color touchscreen.
- Owners of larger zones exceeding 15A unless you plan to add a contactor and understand the wiring implications.

Tips for a smoother setup

• Test the heating mat’s resistance and insulation before connecting to the thermostat.
• Energize the load when performing the GFCI test; raise the setpoint first.
• Use Air + Floor with a reasonable floor max temperature to balance comfort and protection, especially with wood or vinyl.
• Keep a copy (photo or note) of your installer menu choices in case of future resets.
• If you see repeated GFCI trips, do not defeat the protection. Inspect the load and wiring or call a pro.

The bottom line

The Bowsen thermostat isn’t flashy, but it brings the right fundamentals for electric radiant floors: dual sensing, a self-testing Class A GFCI, 120/240V versatility up to 15A/3600W, and reliable 7‑day scheduling. The tradeoffs are an old-school interface and a manual that makes setup harder than it needs to be. After that initial friction, it quietly does its job—maintaining a comfortable floor and room without drama.

Recommendation: I recommend it for users who prioritize safety features and value over interface polish, and who are comfortable with a slightly clunky setup process. If you want a more intuitive UI or smart-home integration, consider stepping up to a premium model; otherwise, this is a capable, budget-friendly controller that, once configured, performs consistently and safely.