Bosch 5-Piece 4 In. 10 TPI Accurate Wood with Nails Cutting U-shank Jig Saw Blades

First impressions and where these blades fit

Jigsaws are at their best when the blade matches the job, and that’s especially true when fasteners might be lurking in the cut. The Bosch U111HF blades—bi‑metal, 4-inch, 10 TPI U‑shanks—are built specifically to keep you moving when you hit the occasional nail, to track straight in framing lumber and OSB, and to double as a utility option for plastics and light non‑ferrous stock. I ran a pack through a mix of remodeling tasks and shop work to see how they hold up. In short: they’re a useful, durable choice for older U‑shank saws and occasional nail encounters, with a few caveats around compatibility and cut finish.

Setup and compatibility

These are U‑shank blades. That’s the first thing to check because many modern jigsaws have standardized on T‑shanks for tool‑less changes and more secure clamping. If your saw is U‑shank only or accepts both, you’re good. If it’s T‑shank only, look for the comparable Bosch T‑shank variant. Blade changes were straightforward in my older U‑shank Bosch saw: a screw clamp holds the tang securely, but it’s not as fast as the tool‑less T‑shank systems.

Specs that matter here:
- Overall length: 4 inches (working length about 3‑3/16 inches)
- Thickness: 0.04 inch
- Tooth profile: 10 TPI, side‑set and ground
- Material: Bi‑metal with HSS teeth

That 3‑plus inches of working length is plenty for 2x stock, subfloor, and trim; you’ll max out if you try to hog through thick beams or stacked laminations.

Cutting wood with embedded nails

Framing and demo are where these blades earn their keep. The bi‑metal build and hardened HSS teeth let you keep cutting through the occasional nail without the catastrophic tooth loss you’d get from a standard high‑carbon wood blade. In practice, I could crosscut a 2x with a few hidden finish nails, feel the resistance jump slightly when I met steel, and keep moving with a controlled feed rate. The blade will slow a touch and the cut line will heat up, but it didn’t chip teeth or skid off the line.

Some technique notes that helped:
- Reduce orbital action when you suspect nails to keep the tooth engagement steady.
- Slow the stroke rate a notch; jigsaw speed changes matter more with metal.
- Let the teeth do the work—pushing harder just invites wandering.

After several nail strikes, the cutting pace in clean wood did degrade slightly (as you’d expect), but it remained usable for the rest of the day. That’s the value proposition: not invincible, but far more forgiving than a pure wood blade.

OSB, subfloor, and general carpentry

In OSB and plywood, the side‑set, ground teeth track straighter than typical milled teeth. I got respectably square cuts for a jigsaw—enough to drop in patches and maintain tight seams. Tear‑out on the top surface is present, as it is with most up‑cutting profiles, but it’s reasonable. A bit of painter’s tape along the line or cutting from the finished side down helps if you’re working visible faces.

The 0.04-inch thickness gives a nice balance of stiffness and maneuverability. Aggressive curves aren’t the point of this blade; it prefers straight or gentle radius cuts. For tight curves in plywood, you’ll want a narrower, finer-tooth blade.

Plastics and non‑ferrous metals

These are marketed as multipurpose, and within reason they are. I used them on:
- PVC and ABS: With lower speed and a light feed, cuts were clean with minimal melting. For truly polished edges, a higher TPI blade is better, but this one is capable if you don’t rush.
- Aluminum angle and sheet: At slow speed with a bit of cutting wax, the blade produced straight, controlled cuts. Expect a burr that needs a quick file pass. It’s fine for occasional hardware fitting or trimming track. For heavy or frequent aluminum work, step up to dedicated metal blades for faster progress and finer edges.

They’re also specced for light steel in the 1/8–1/4 inch range. They’ll do it in a pinch, but it’s slow, and heat management becomes critical. I’d reserve these for incidental encounters with screws or staples rather than planned steel cuts.

Cut quality and tracking

For a 10 TPI multipurpose profile, cut surfaces in softwood were smoother than I expected—no planer‑ready finish, but less sanding than with coarse demolition blades. The side‑set, ground tooth geometry helps keep the blade from drifting, especially in straight cuts along a fence. Push too fast and any jigsaw blade will deflect; keeping the saw’s baseplate flat and the feed steady produced square edges consistently up to about 1‑1/2 inches of depth. In thicker stock, slowing down and reducing orbital action helped maintain a true path.

Durability and lifespan

Durability is where the U111HF shines. Bi‑metal construction spreads the work: a flexible backer resists snapping, while the HSS teeth shrug off occasional metal. In my use, a single blade:
- Survived multiple nail contacts without shedding teeth
- Maintained acceptable speed in clean lumber after those contacts
- Stayed straight—no kinks or fatigue cracks—despite plunge cuts and bevels

You can absolutely kill it by forcing the cut through dense hardwood or overheating it in metal, but within the listed applications, it holds up well. The five‑pack feels appropriate; I went through two blades over a long weekend of subfloor patches, stud trimming, and a few plastic cuts.

What I’d change

• Shank format: U‑shank limits the audience. If your saw takes only T‑shank blades, you’ll need a different SKU. That’s not a flaw in performance, just an ecosystem limitation worth flagging early.
• Top‑surface tear‑out: Normal for this tooth orientation, but if you’re routinely doing finish‑grade cuts in plywood, you’ll want a down‑cut or finer TPI companion blade alongside this set.
• Speed in non‑ferrous: It’s competent but not quick. A dedicated metal blade outpaces it in aluminum, and the finish is cleaner.

Tips to get the best results

• For wood with nails: reduce orbital action, moderate speed, and let the blade cool between cuts if you’ve hit metal.
• For plastics: low speed, shallow orbital, and a steady, light feed; masking tape along the line reduces chipping.
• For aluminum: add cutting wax or a drop of light oil, clamp firmly, and deburr after cutting.
• For straighter lines: use a fence or straightedge and keep the shoe firmly planted; this blade rewards steady guidance.

Value and who it’s for

If you’re working with an older U‑shank jigsaw, these blades are a smart, versatile staple to keep in the kit. Remodelers, maintenance techs, and DIYers dealing with unknown fasteners in walls and floors will appreciate the “keep going” factor when you hit a nail mid‑cut. Cabinetmakers and trim carpenters may still prefer finer TPI or down‑cut profiles for finished edges, but even in a shop, a pack of U111HFs is handy for roughing, template trimming in softwood, and utility cuts where hidden metal is possible.

The five‑pack format aligns with their role: durable enough to last, affordable enough to treat as consumables when conditions get rough.

Bottom line and recommendation

The Bosch U111HF blades do what they claim: they cut wood cleanly enough for general carpentry, stay on track better than typical demolition profiles, and keep working after you bump into nails. They broaden a jigsaw’s utility into plastics and light non‑ferrous tasks without pretending to be specialized finish or metal blades. The main constraint is the U‑shank format; make sure your saw supports it. Within that boundary, the performance is solid, the durability is impressive for the price, and the five‑pack is a practical buy.

I recommend these blades to anyone using a U‑shank jigsaw who needs a reliable, multipurpose option that won’t fold at the first sign of metal. If you primarily do finish‑grade plywood or dedicated metalwork, pair them with finer or specialty blades, but keep a pack of U111HFs on hand—they’re the right tool for the many times you don’t know exactly what’s inside the cut.