Bosch T-Shank Jigsaw Blade (Basic for wood)

I reach for this blade when I need my jigsaw to behave like a scroll saw. The Bosch T101AO blade is purpose-built for clean, tight-radius work in wood and wood-based sheet goods, and it shows. After running it through a mix of plywood, MDF, melamine, and hardwood veneers, I’ve come away impressed with the edge quality and control—so long as you keep it in the domain it was designed for.

What it is and where it fits

This is a narrow, high-carbon steel T‑shank blade with fine, pointed, ground teeth at 20 TPI. Translation: it favors smooth, splinter-free cuts and agility over raw speed. The working length is short (about 2-5/16 in.), and the body is slender, which helps it turn sharp corners but also makes it more susceptible to deflection in thick stock. If your projects involve curved cutouts in plywood, trimming laminate countertops, or tight templates in MDF, you’re the target user. If you’re ripping 2x lumber or doing demolition cuts, look elsewhere.

Setup and compatibility

The T‑shank fits every modern jigsaw I own without fiddling. In a barrel-grip saw with a tight blade clamp, retention is rock solid. This blade likes:
- Zero orbital action for the cleanest edge
- High to medium-high stroke rate
- A steady but unhurried feed

Because the blade is short and narrow, I avoid aggressive shoe bevels when cutting thicker material—keeping the shoe flat reduces side loading on the blade and helps maintain a true cut.

Cutting performance

In 1/2 in. Baltic birch plywood, the T101AO tracks beautifully through S‑curves and tight radii. The narrow body and pointed, ground teeth make steering precise; it doesn’t fight you in corners the way wider “fast cut” blades do. With the pendulum off and the speed up, the cut stays clean on both faces with minimal fuzzing at the exit. The kerf is narrow, and wandering is minimal as long as you don’t overfeed.

In MDF, the blade leaves a smooth edge that’s glue-ready. The fine tooth count resists the usual fraying at the top surface, and I saw essentially no breakout on the underside with a sacrificial backer.

Melamine and double-sided laminates are tougher on any blade. Here, the pointed tooth geometry helps; it genuinely reduces chipping on both faces compared to standard up-cut jigsaw blades. You’ll still want to control feed pressure and keep the orbit off. For long, visible cuts in melamine, a scoring pass or painter’s tape along the line can make the results near flawless.

Hardwood veneers and thin stock (1/4 in.–3/8 in.) are where this blade feels effortless. Curves are clean, transitions are predictable, and edge sanding is minimal.

Curves, radius, and control

The advertised “curved cuts; splinter-free on both sides” claim checks out in practical use. I can comfortably steer inside tight radii that would stall broader blades. Think of this as a scroll blade for your jigsaw. On a 3/4 in. plywood gusset, I could trace around a paper template with near scroll-saw precision once I dialed in the speed and feed. The narrow body does mean you need to let the blade do the work—forcing turns will twist the blade and cause the cut to lean. If the inside corner is critical, lighten your feed and make a short relief cut.

Edge quality and tear-out

With plywood and MDF, both faces exit cleanly, even without taping. In melamine, the top face is extremely clean; the bottom is notably better than a standard tooth pattern, though you may still see a hairline chip if you rush. The tooth geometry clearly favors clean edges over aggressive material removal.

Speed and heat

There’s no escaping physics: 20 TPI cuts slower. In thicker material (approaching the blade’s working length), progress is deliberate. That’s the trade-off for a polished edge. The high-carbon steel holds up well at reasonable speed, but it will heat if you push it. I’ve had best results running the saw fast, orbit off, and easing the feed to let chips clear. If you smell burning, back off and let the blade cool.

Durability and longevity

High-carbon steel is a good match for wood and MDF, less so for abrasive laminates and anything with embedded fasteners. On plywood and MDF, I get multiple long curved cuts per blade before I notice any dulling. In melamine, life shortens—still workable, but you’ll retire blades sooner. If you hit brads or staples, expect a noticeable loss of sharpness or a chipped tooth. This is not a demolition blade; treat it like a fine woodworking cutter and it rewards you.

If you routinely cut abrasive laminates or encounter hidden hardware, a bi-metal or carbide-grit specialty blade will outlast this one. For clean curved cuts in wood, the T101AO remains my preferred pick.

Limitations

• Working length: The 2-5/16 in. working length constrains you to relatively thin material. You can cut thicker stock, but the risk of deflection and heat rises quickly.
• Deflection in deep cuts: The slender body that makes it nimble in curves also makes it easier to flex if you force the cut or try to stay perfectly plumb through thick work.
• Speed: It’s not fast. If productivity trumps finish quality, switch to a coarser blade and clean up later.
• Not for metal or masonry: Keep it on wood and wood-based panels.

Tips for best results

• Turn off orbital action for the cleanest edges.
• Use a backer board under laminates and melamine.
• Keep the shoe flat and square; avoid heavy side pressure in tight turns.
• Let the blade clear chips: high stroke rate, light feed.
• For ultra-visible cuts, score the line or tape it and make a shallow initial pass before the final cut.

Comparisons and alternatives

• For straight, clean cuts in wood: A wider “Clean for Wood” style blade (e.g., T101B profile) tracks straighter with less deflection and cuts faster.
• For abrasive laminates and frequent use: Consider a bi-metal or laminate-specific blade. You’ll sacrifice a bit of curve agility but gain lifespan.
• For extremely tight scroll work in thin stock: A specialty reverse-tooth or down-cut scroll blade may further reduce top-face chipping, though they can be grabby without practice.

Value

You buy these in packs of five, and the price per blade is on the premium side. Given the edge quality and control, the cost makes sense for fine work and templates. If you’re chewing through blades on general construction tasks, you’re using the wrong blade. In the right application, I get good life and consistent results, making the pack price reasonable.

Who it’s for

• Cabinet installers and finish carpenters who need clean cutouts in sheet goods
• Woodworkers shaping templates, gussets, and curved furniture components
• DIYers tackling laminate countertops or plywood projects where both faces matter

What I’d change

• A slightly longer working length option would broaden its usefulness without sacrificing too much control.
• A bi-metal variant with the same tooth geometry would better handle occasional abrasive materials and the odd missed fastener.

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch T101AO blade for anyone who prioritizes clean, splinter-free curved cuts in wood, plywood, MDF, and laminates. It shines in tight turns, leaves both faces tidy, and offers excellent control with proper technique. It’s not the fastest blade and it’s not a do‑everything cutter—thick stock, metal, and rough work will expose its limits—but used as intended, it delivers reliable, high-quality results that justify keeping a pack in the kit.