Boshen 1 Roll 2in x 33 FT Asphalt Crack Tape Self-Adhesive Asphalt Crack Filler Asphalt Joint Repair for Driveway Parking Lot Roof Asphalt Cement Road(3mm Thick), No Torch Required

A quick, clean way to tame driveway cracks

A roll of sticky asphalt doesn’t sound glamorous, but the Boshen asphalt crack tape turned out to be one of the most straightforward asphalt fixes I’ve used. I put a 2-inch by 33-foot roll to work on my driveway’s hairline-to-¼-inch cracks and the joint where my asphalt meets the concrete garage slab. The promise is simple: peel, stick, press, and stop water from getting in. In practice, that’s pretty close to how it went—provided I respected surface prep and temperature.

What I tested

• Size: 2 inches wide, 33 feet long (one roll)
• Thickness: roughly 3 mm
• Construction: self-adhesive asphalt with a UV-resistant top film
• Color: black

This is a cold-applied, self-adhesive bituminous tape. No kettle, no hot-pour, and—critically—no torch. The backing film keeps things from getting messy during handling, then peels away as you lay the tape.

What’s in the roll

The tape has a thick, slightly compliant asphalt adhesive face and a smooth top film that feels tougher than it looks. That film matters: it sheds UV and reduces pickup from tires and shoes, and it’s slick enough to look tidy once rolled down. The adhesive layer is tacky at room temperature and gets noticeably more compliant when warmed—ideal for conforming to rough surfaces and sealing micro-voids.

Prep matters more than anything

Like most asphalt crack fixes, the difference between “okay” and “excellent” comes down to prep:

• Clean thoroughly. I ran a stiff wire brush over each crack, vacuumed debris with a shop vac, and chased dust with a leaf blower. Grit under the adhesive is the enemy.
• Dry completely. I waited until late morning on a warm day to be sure any overnight moisture had flashed off.
• Mind the weather. The sweet spot is 68–86°F (20–30°C). In cooler weather, set the roll in the sun before use or gently warm the surface with a heat gun. Do not use an open flame.
• Treat wider voids. Anything wider than about ¼ inch or deeper than ½ inch benefits from a sand backfill or a compatible crack filler before taping. The tape seals; it doesn’t replace structural fill.

Gloves and a sharp utility knife are must-haves. A small hand roller (even a laminate J-roller) makes a big difference when it’s time to press the tape home.

Application in the real world

I started with the driveway-to-garage joint, which tends to collect water. Working in two-foot sections, I:

1. Snapped a chalk line to guide placement.
2. Cut a length of tape and test-fit it.
3. Peeled back a few inches of release liner and anchored one end.
4. Continued peeling and laying in short increments, pressing as I went to avoid air pockets.
5. Rolled firmly from center out to the edges.

The 2-inch width was just right for most cracks and that garage joint. For narrower cracks, I sliced the tape down the middle—easy to do with a sharp blade and a straightedge. For a meandering crack, the material curved without kinking, though very tight bends work best if the tape is warmed a bit first.

Seaming multiple runs was straightforward: I overlapped by about an inch and rolled the overlap hard. The seams are visible up close but stayed flush.

How it performed

Adhesion out of the box was good; adhesion in warm conditions was great. On a 78°F day, the tape gripped quickly and leveled against the aggregate as I rolled it. On a cooler morning, I noticed the edges were slower to settle until I warmed the area with a heat gun and pressed again.

After the first rain, water beaded on the surface and I didn’t find seepage along the treated cracks. On hot afternoons, the tape didn’t smear or transfer, likely thanks to that UV-resistant top film. Tire scuffing was minimal and only visible on a couple of sharp turn-in points near the garage—cosmetic, not functional.

Four observations stood out:

• Edge seal is everything. A couple of spots I under-rolled showed slight lifting the next day; a quick re-roll fixed it.
• Texture matters. On very coarse, open-graded asphalt, plan on extra rolling and a warm surface to coax the adhesive into the micro-voids.
• It’s neat. Compared with liquid crack fillers, there was no sagging, sink-in, or sticky overspill.
• Traffic-ready quickly. I parked a car across a treated area 30 minutes after application with no issues, though I’d wait longer on cooler days.

I can’t report multi-year durability yet, but after heat, rain, and daily vehicle traffic over several weeks, adhesion remained solid and the top film didn’t chalk or crack. I’ll reassess after a full freeze–thaw cycle, but early signs are promising.

Where it works—and where it doesn’t

This tape shines when:

• You’re sealing hairline to ¼-inch cracks.
• You need a quick, clean repair without mixing or heating.
• A visible, tidy strip is acceptable cosmetically.
• You’re covering straight joints (driveway-to-slab, asphalt-to-asphalt seams).

It’s less ideal when:

• Cracks are wide/deep or the base is unstable. You’ll need a proper fill first.
• The pavement is crumbling. The adhesive can’t bond to loose aggregate.
• You want an invisible repair. The strip looks neat but not invisible; a sealcoat over the whole surface will unify the look.

Usability and quirks

• Release liner: On a very hot afternoon, the liner started to separate at the edges in the roll. Keeping the roll in the shade until use prevented that. If it happens, flip the roll and start peeling from the other side.
• Cutting: The material cuts cleanly but will gunk up a dull blade quickly. Swap blades often.
• Overlaps and ends: Mitering corners with a 45-degree cut makes intersections look cleaner and reduces edge thickness.
• Storage: Keep the roll cool and upright. In heat, store flat to avoid a permanent curl.

Value versus other options

Compared with liquid crack fillers:
- Faster and cleaner to apply
- More uniform appearance on straight cracks and joints
- Less penetration into deep voids without prior filling

Compared with hot-pour or torch-applied products:
- Safer and simpler—no specialized equipment
- Slightly less ability to wet into extremely rough textures
- Typically higher cost per linear foot, but lower setup time and hassle

One 33-foot roll covered my priority areas with some left over. As a rule of thumb, expect roughly 33 linear feet of 2-inch coverage per roll; if you split the tape for narrow cracks, coverage goes much further.

Safety notes

Bituminous adhesives are messy and can be hot to the touch in summer sun. Wear gloves, keep the adhesive off skin and clothing, and follow the manufacturer’s guidance: apply on clean, dry surfaces, aim for warm conditions, and avoid open flames. If you need to warm the material, a heat gun on a low setting or simply letting the sun do the work is plenty.

The bottom line

Boshen’s asphalt crack tape is a practical, homeowner-friendly way to seal small cracks and joints without drama. It rewards good prep and warm conditions with a tidy look and a dependable seal. It won’t fix structural issues or substitute for a proper base repair, but as a preventative measure to keep water out—and to clean up the look of those spidering lines—it works well.

Recommendation: I recommend this tape for routine maintenance of narrow asphalt cracks and joints, especially if you value quick, clean application without specialized tools. Use it on a warm day, roll it firmly, pre-fill larger voids, and you’ll get a neat, durable seal that holds up to traffic and weather. If you’re dealing with wide, active, or crumbling cracks, address the underlying problem first and consider professional-grade fills before finishing with a tape like this.