Boshen 2 Rolls 2in x 33 FT Asphalt Crack Tape Self-Adhesive Asphalt Crack Filler Asphalt Joint Repair for Driveway Parking Lot Roof Asphalt Cement Road(3mm Thick), No Torch Required

A couple of warm weekends and a driveway full of hairline cracks gave me the perfect excuse to test the Boshen asphalt crack tape. I was looking for a faster, cleaner alternative to liquid crack fillers and hot-pour products, ideally something I could apply solo without hauling out a melter or waiting hours for cure time. This tape fits that brief: it’s a thick, bituminous strip with a self-adhesive backing designed to bridge and seal cracks, joints, and small gaps in asphalt. Each box includes two rolls at 2 inches wide by 33 feet long, roughly 3 mm thick.

What it is and where it fits
The tape is essentially a flexible asphalt-based seal with a UV-resistant top film and a pressure-sensitive adhesive underneath. Think of it as a pre-formed, controlled-thickness crack seal that you press into place. It’s best suited for:
- Hairline to moderate cracks (roughly 1/16" to 1/4")
- Expansion joints between asphalt and concrete (e.g., garage slab to driveway)
- Long, wandering surface cracks that are tedious to fill with liquid sealers

It’s not a structural repair. Potholes, crumbling edges, alligator cracking, or gaps wider than 1/4" generally need base repair and/or a proper crack fill before this tape goes on.

Setup and application
Prep matters a lot. I swept, wire-brushed, and blew out each crack, then let the surface dry completely. Morning dew is the enemy; the adhesive wants a bone-dry, dust-free surface. On a sunny, 70–80°F day, I could skip supplemental heat. On cooler days—or if the pavement is shaded—warming the surface or the tape with a heat gun helps it conform and wet out the texture, but you don’t need to torch it.

A few practical notes from the job:
- Cutting: At 2 inches wide, it covers most driveway crack widths nicely. For hairline cracks, I cut the roll into 1–1.25 inch strips with a sharp utility knife. Shorter lengths (12–24 inches) are easier to control and lay straight without stretching.
- Liner handling: The release film peels cleanly, but if you pull too hard or long, the tape can stretch. I had better luck peeling a foot at a time and keeping the tape lightly tensioned.
- Placement: Start at one end of the crack and center the tape as you go, lightly pressing it down with your palm. Once it’s aligned, use a rubber seam roller or a wooden block to activate the adhesive with firm pressure. The edges should visibly grab.
- Heat (optional): A quick pass with a heat gun after rolling—especially at the edges—helps it settle into the asphalt texture and seals microvoids. I avoided open flame; a heat gun is plenty and safer around landscaping and siding.

On a warm day, the tack is strong and immediate. I walked and drove over repaired spots the same afternoon without any tracking or edge lift.

Performance and durability
The tape’s 3 mm thickness is a plus. It bridges small gaps without collapsing and feels substantial under the roller. On 1/8" to 1/4" cracks, it spanned the void without sinking, and light heat helped the adhesive flow just enough to wet into the crack edges. Water beaded along the strip after a rain, and I saw no seepage into the repaired cracks.

Aesthetically, it blends with asphalt better than liquid fillers I’ve used that cure gray or patchy. Freshly applied, the surface looks a bit shinier due to the top film, but that mellowed after a couple of weeks of sun and dust. On the joint between my concrete garage slab and the asphalt apron, the tape created a neat, consistent seal that stopped wash-in during storms and blocked weeds. It’s thick enough that you’ll notice a slight ridge; if that bothers you, a quick feather with gentle heat and an extra pass of the roller minimizes the step.

After several hot days and a few storms, nothing lifted—no edge curl, no tar tracking onto tires, no adhesive ooze. That said, tape-based seals are still at their best in warmer application conditions; in cold weather, you’ll want to warm the work area. If you live where freeze-thaw is aggressive, plan to monitor the first season and re-roll any sections if needed. The UV-resistant top holds up to sun better than raw bitumen, which should lengthen the service life compared with bare crack banding tapes.

Limitations to keep in mind
- Temperature sensitivity: Below about 50°F, the adhesive feels reluctant. You can compensate with a heat gun, but the sweet spot is a warm, sunny day when the pavement is already heat-soaked.
- Very wide or raveled cracks: Anything wider than 1/4" benefits from packing with dry sand or a cold-patch crack filler first. The tape is a cap seal, not a gap filler.
- Surface contamination: Dust, sealcoat residue, and oil undermine adhesion. A solvent wipe (mineral spirits) on oily spots, followed by thorough drying, improved my results.
- Height profile: At 3 mm, it creates a visible band. If you plan to sealcoat the driveway later, the tape hides nicely under a coat and almost disappears.

Tips for best results
- Work warm: Aim for 68–86°F surface temperature. Let the rolls sit in the sun for 15–20 minutes before use.
- Prep thoroughly: Stiff brush, blower, and absolute dryness. Don’t rush this.
- Cut to fit: Narrow the tape for hairline cracks; overlap ends by about 1/2 inch on long runs.
- Roll with intent: A $10 rubber seam roller is worth it. Firm, consistent pressure is more important than heat.
- Feather edges: A quick pass with a heat gun after rolling helps lock the edges, especially where tires will cross.
- Stage the job: Apply in 12–24 inch pieces to avoid stretching and to keep the liner manageable.
- Store smart: Keep unused roll in a cool place, bagged, with the liner intact.

How it compares to other approaches
- Versus liquid crack filler: The tape is faster, cleaner, and gives a uniform finish with no cure time guessing. Liquids can sink or crack as they cure; this maintains thickness. Liquids still have an edge for ultra-narrow hairlines that a 1" strip might visually exaggerate.
- Versus hot-pour sealant: Hot-pour lasts a long time and truly penetrates, but it’s equipment-heavy, messier, and overkill for small residential touch-ups. The tape is a credible middle ground for DIYers.
- Versus cold patch for gaps: Cold patch is for voids and potholes; use it to rebuild, then cap with tape to seal out water.

What I’d change
The release liner could be a touch sturdier to make partial-peel applications smoother, and I’d love an optional 1-inch roll out of the box for hairline cracks. Beyond that, the product hits the practical notes: sufficient thickness, strong tack, and a UV-stable surface.

Bottom line
For homeowners and facility folks who want a low-mess, quick-seal solution for small asphalt cracks and joints, the Boshen asphalt crack tape is genuinely useful. It doesn’t replace structural repair, but it excels at what it promises: keeping water and debris out of the pavement through an easy, pressure-applied band that holds up in sun and traffic.

Recommendation
I recommend this tape for routine driveway maintenance, joint sealing between concrete and asphalt, and patching hairline to 1/4" cracks without the fuss of kettles or long cure times. It’s fast to apply, adheres well in warm conditions, looks tidy, and offers a thicker, more durable seal than typical liquid fillers. If you’re tackling larger, raveled cracks or working in cold weather, you’ll need to pair it with proper prep and a bit of heat—but for most residential cracks, it’s a smart, efficient fix.