DeWalt 6" 14 TPI Straight Back Bi-Metal Reciprocating Blade (2 pack)

Why I reached for this blade

Metal cuts can be unforgiving. One moment you’re skimming along EMT, the next you’re chattering on a piece of angle and glazing teeth in a shower of sparks. For day-to-day cuts in mild steel and common jobsite metals, I’ve had good luck with a straightforward 14 TPI bi‑metal recip blade. That’s exactly what this DeWalt 14 TPI metal‑cutting blade is: a no‑nonsense, 6-inch, straight‑back option meant to balance speed, control, and tooth life without getting precious about it.

I put this blade to work across a pretty typical spread: cutting 1/2" and 3/4" EMT, trimming Unistrut, lopping off rusted bolts and threaded rod, and making a few flush cuts on black pipe and angle iron. I also tried it on thin sheet and a scrap of stainless to see where it tapped out.

Build and design notes

• Bi‑metal construction: flexible body with a hardened tooth edge. That mix matters on recip blades—too brittle and the blade snaps at the shank; too soft and the teeth round over fast. This one flexes without permanent set and doesn’t grenade if you bind it in a cut.
• 14 TPI, straight‑back profile: a good middle-ground pitch for metals thicker than thin sheet but not so coarse that it grabs aggressively. The straight‑back adds stiffness compared to a narrow/tapered profile, which helps with tracking on long cuts.
• 6" length, 3/4" width: the length gives enough reach to get past the shoe for flush cuts on nuts and bolts while staying stiff enough to avoid a bowing, wandering cut. The 3/4" width is stout enough for control but not so wide it kills maneuverability in tight spots.
• Anti‑stick coating: reduces friction and heat. On painted and galvanized stock, it keeps the blade from feeling “gummy,” and I noticed fewer heat marks than bare blades in the same cuts.
• Tooth and shank geometry: DeWalt’s toothform clears chips efficiently, and the blade’s “aggressive shank angle” (their term) translates in the cut to quick bite and decent speed retention as the teeth wear. The gullets don’t pack up easily, which helps keep the cut moving.

The fit and finish are solid—no rough stamping, the coating is even, and the shank locks positively in every saw I tried (DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid). It’s a universal recip blade, as you’d expect.

Setup and ergonomics

Mounting is standard; the blade seats true with minimal runout. The straight‑back profile and 3/4" width make it easy to sight down a line on channel or strut. I prefer to turn off orbital action for metal and run medium to high speed, leaning the shoe in hard. With that setup, the blade felt planted and resisted chatter well on 1/8" and thicker sections.

Starting cuts was predictable: a few short strokes to notch, then full engagement. On round stock like EMT and pipe, the blade tracked without skating once I created a shallow starter groove.

Cutting performance

• EMT conduit (1/2" and 3/4"): Clean, quick cuts with minimal burring. The blade didn’t grab on the thin wall, but you do want a light touch to avoid tooth hop at the start. Average cut time was a few seconds per piece.
• Unistrut and angle iron (1/8"): This is its wheelhouse. The blade pulled steady chips, maintained speed across multiple cuts, and didn’t heat‑soak quickly. The anti‑stick coating seemed to keep the drift down when the section got hot.
• Threaded rod and bolts (3/8"–1/2"): No drama. Keep the shoe pinned and let the heel of the blade do the work for a controlled, flat finish. Burrs were manageable.
• Black iron pipe (schedule 40): Slower, naturally, but the blade stayed on line and didn’t wander. You’ll feel the load increase; reducing speed a touch helps with heat.
• Thin sheet steel: This is where 14 TPI starts to show limitations. It will cut, but it’s not graceful—expect more vibration and greater risk of snagging. For HVAC sheet and flashing, an 18–24 TPI blade is a better pick.
• Stainless: It’ll do light stainless in a pinch if you back off the speed and don’t force it, but this is not the blade I’d choose for repeated stainless cuts. Carbide teeth or a higher TPI bi‑metal blade will outlast it dramatically on hard alloys.

Across those tasks, the standout trait is how well the teeth keep clearing chips. You don’t get that grinding, powdery swarf that signals a dull edge right away; instead, you see curled chips and steady bite. Even as the blade wore, it kept an acceptable pace rather than falling off a cliff.

Durability and heat management

Tooth life was good for a bi‑metal blade. After a morning of cuts in mild steel (a dozen EMT sections, several strut cuts, and a handful of bolts), the leading teeth showed rounding but still produced respectable chips. The coating wore off at the nose first, as expected, but friction didn’t spike drastically.

I purposely bound the blade in a sloppy strut cut to see what would give. The body flexed and sprang back without kinking, and the shank didn’t start a crack—exactly what you want from bi‑metal in demo situations.

Heat control was better than average. You can still blue a blade if you drive it hard, but it resists that “hot butter” feel where the blade starts skating. If you’re making repeated heavy cuts, give it air or rotate to a fresh section of blade to extend life.

Where it shines, and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Everyday metal work: EMT, Unistrut, angle, pipe, and fasteners in mild steel and galvanized materials.
- Control and tracking: The straight‑back profile and 3/4" width help keep cuts straight with less chatter.
- Chip evacuation: Teeth stay productive longer, so you keep a decent pace even as the blade wears.
- Flex without fragility: Takes a bind without snapping at the shank.

Limitations:
- Thin sheet: 14 TPI is on the coarse side for thin gauge. You can make it work, but it’s not ideal.
- Hard alloys: On stainless, cast iron, or hardened fasteners, a carbide‑tooth blade is a better call.
- Reach: At 6", you’ll occasionally wish for a longer blade for deep or recessed cuts.
- Warranty: None. It’s a consumable, so that’s common, but worth noting.

Tips to get the most from it

• Kill orbital action for metal. It reduces tooth hop and improves finish.
• Keep the shoe tight to the work. It’s the best defense against chatter and bent blades.
• Use moderate speed and light pressure on harder materials. Forcing it cooks the teeth.
• Start with a score. Two or three short strokes to notch round stock cuts down on skating.
• Match TPI to material when you can. This blade is a great mid‑range; pair it with an 18–24 TPI for thin sheet and a carbide blade for thick/hard stuff.

Value and alternatives

In a two‑pack, this blade fits nicely into the “stock it and don’t overthink it” category. You’ll find carbide recip blades that cut faster and last longer in tough materials—but they cost more, and they’re overkill for a lot of everyday steel. Conversely, finer‑tooth bi‑metal blades are smoother on thin stock but slower on 1/8" sections.

Made in the USA with global materials, the consistency run‑to‑run has been good in my sets. For a general‑purpose metal blade you won’t baby, it hits a practical balance between speed, control, and durability.

Final recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt 14 TPI metal‑cutting blade as a dependable, mid‑pitch workhorse for mild steel: EMT, Unistrut, angle, pipe, and common fasteners. It tracks straight, clears chips well, and holds up to real‑world binding better than cheaper bi‑metal blades. If your day is mostly thin sheet or mostly stainless and cast iron, pair it with more specialized options—a finer TPI blade for sheet and a carbide tooth blade for hard alloys. For everything in between, this one earns a spot in the kit.