Sunydog Electric Chainsaw Attachment, 6 Inch Electric Drill Attachment, Woodworking Cutting Tool Accessories for Wood Cutting Tree Trimming, Household Garden Use, for 6-13mm 3-jaw Collet Drill

What this attachment is—and what it isn’t

The Sunydog drill chainsaw attachment is an interesting idea: take a drill you already own and turn it into a compact 6-inch pruning saw. I went into testing with realistic expectations. This is not a replacement for a standalone chainsaw or even a dedicated mini chainsaw. It’s a budget-minded accessory aimed at light pruning and occasional cutting, with portability and low storage footprint as its biggest advantages.

In that context, it can be useful. But it also brings compromises in setup, performance, and maintenance that you should weigh before buying.

Setup and compatibility

The attachment clamps into a standard 3-jaw drill chuck (6–13 mm), with the bar/chain assembly bolting onto a plastic body that includes an auxiliary handle. There’s no permanent modification required to the drill, but assembly takes a bit of patience:

• Fit the chain on the 6-inch bar, making sure the cutters face forward on the top run.
• Bolt the bar to the housing, align the drive sprocket, and set initial tension.
• Chuck the drive arbor into your drill and lock it down firmly.
• Attach the auxiliary handle and adjust its angle for a two-handed grip.

Expect 15–25 minutes for the first build if you’re mechanically comfortable. The included hardware is basic; I kept a small wrench and screwdriver nearby. There’s no automatic oiler, so you’ll also want a small bottle of bar and chain oil within reach.

Compatibility-wise, your drill matters more than you might think. A compact 12V drill struggled. A mid- to high-torque 18V brushless drill performed noticeably better. A corded drill with steady torque works too, though the cord limits mobility in the yard. Use a drill without a slipping clutch (or set to drill mode) and start at moderate speed; high RPM isn’t always better here.

Build and ergonomics

The bar and chain are metal; the main body and auxiliary handle are plastic. That keeps weight down and makes the whole setup surprisingly portable. The plastic flexes a bit under load, which you’ll feel if you’re used to rigid saw bodies. The auxiliary handle is worth installing—it encourages a two-handed stance that improves control and helps manage kickback.

Balance depends on your drill. With a compact 18V drill, the combo felt front-heavy but manageable. Vibration is higher than on a dedicated mini saw because you’re coupling two tools that weren’t originally designed for each other. Ear and eye protection are a must, and gloves help with the occasional chatter in the cut.

Cutting performance

I tested on green and dry branches, plus some dimensional lumber to gauge versatility.

• Green branches (softwoods) up to about 1.5 inches: clean, quick cuts with a steady feed. This is the sweet spot.
• Green hardwood branches (oak, maple) around 1 inch: still fine, just slower. Keep gentle pressure and let the chain do the work.
• Dry branches 1–2 inches: cuts, but heat builds faster. Oil the chain frequently.
• Dimensional lumber (3/4-inch pine): it will cut, but it’s not efficient. The chain grabs more and requires careful control to avoid binding.

This attachment is clearly happier pruning shrubs and small limbs than it is crosscutting boards or tackling thick, seasoned wood. It can nibble a larger limb by cutting from multiple sides, but the short bar and limited torque of most drills make that a slow proposition. If pruning is your main use, it does the job; if carpentry cuts are on your list, a small circular saw or handsaw will be more predictable.

Chain tensioning and maintenance

Plan on frequent checks. New chains stretch, and on this platform the effect is amplified by higher vibration and the absence of an automatic oiler.

• Tension: I checked after every few cuts early on and after every 10–12 cuts once the chain settled. A loose chain will derail; too tight and you’ll stall the drill and heat the bar.
• Lubrication: No oiler means you need to apply bar oil manually. A quick squirt on the chain and bar before each cut, and every couple of cuts on dry wood, kept temperature in check and improved speed.
• Sharpening: As with any chainsaw, a sharp chain is everything. After a couple of sessions, I touched up the cutters with a round file sized to the chain. If you hit dirt or embedded grit, expect to sharpen sooner.

If you’re not comfortable with basic chainsaw maintenance—tensioning, oiling, and sharpening—this attachment will be frustrating. It rewards a careful, fiddly user and punishes a “grab and go” approach.

Safety considerations

This is a barebones setup. There’s no chain brake, no guard beyond the small nose tip, and no inertia-activated safety systems. That doesn’t make it inherently unsafe, but it means you need to bring good habits:

• Two-handed grip at all times (main drill handle + auxiliary handle).
• Let the chain stop fully before setting it down.
• Remove the battery or unplug the cord when tensioning or adjusting.
• Keep body parts out of the plane of the bar; avoid cutting at shoulder height.
• Use proper PPE: safety glasses, hearing protection, and gloves.

Kickback can happen, especially if you contact with the upper nose of the bar. Work slowly, cut at waist height or below, and don’t force the feed.

Where it shines

• Portability and storage: It lives in a small box, and you only bring it out when needed. For apartment dwellers or anyone with limited space, that’s appealing.
• Light pruning: Quick cuts on small green branches are where it’s most efficient.
• Cost-conscious users: If you already own a capable drill, you can try powered pruning without buying a separate tool.

Where it falls short

• Power delivery: A drill isn’t a chainsaw motor. Stalls and bogging happen under load, and the lack of a clutch designed for chain duty makes it less forgiving.
• Convenience: Manual oiling and frequent tension checks slow you down compared with a dedicated mini saw.
• Rigidity and durability: The plastic frame has some flex, and under heavier cuts the whole assembly feels less confidence-inspiring than purpose-built tools.

Tips for better results

• Use a high-torque 18V or corded drill, drill mode, and start at mid-speed. Let the chain bite before increasing RPM.
• Keep the chain sharp, tensioned so it snaps back but still moves freely by hand.
• Oil early and often; a small squeeze bottle in your pocket helps.
• Support the branch so it doesn’t pinch the bar as you finish the cut. Undercut slightly to prevent tearing.
• Don’t use it for flat stock unless you must; reach for a different saw for boards.

Alternatives to consider

If light pruning is a frequent task, a dedicated 6–8 inch mini chainsaw with an automatic oiler and tool-less tensioning is easier to live with and often only modestly more expensive. If you prefer simplicity and zero maintenance, a quality pruning saw (manual) is quieter, safer, and surprisingly fast on branches under 2 inches.

The bottom line

As a concept, the Sunydog drill chainsaw attachment makes sense for occasional users who prioritize portability and low cost over convenience. In practice, it can be effective within a narrow band of tasks—small, green branches—provided you pair it with a suitably powerful drill and accept the extra attention required for tensioning and oiling. Push beyond that, and the limitations become obvious: slower cuts, more adjustments, and a less robust feel than a purpose-built tool.

Recommendation: I would conditionally recommend this attachment for tinkerers and budget-minded users who already own a strong drill and plan to do light, occasional pruning. If you value plug-and-play ease, need to cut dry or thicker material regularly, or want better safety features, skip this and invest in a dedicated mini chainsaw or a good hand pruning saw.