WORKPRO 9.5" Wire Cutter/Crimper, Wire Crimping/Cutting Tool for 10-22 AWG Terminals and Connectors, Designed for Insulated and Non-Insulated Connections

Why I reached for this crimper

There are crimpers you buy for a single weekend job and there are crimpers you keep within arm’s reach for almost anything involving small-gauge wire. The WORKPRO 9.5-inch crimper sits in that second category for me. I picked it up to tidy some 12–18 AWG connections on a truck harness and a garage lighting run, and it’s since become a go-to for quick, reliable crimps and clean cuts without dragging out a full ratcheting kit.

This is a straightforward, plier-style tool designed for 10–22 AWG connectors, both insulated and non-insulated. It also doubles as a cutter and a general-purpose gripping nose. No frills, no interchangeable dies—just a well-made, high-leverage set of jaws and a comfortable handle that does exactly what it says.

Build and first impressions

Out of the package, mine arrived lightly oiled and ready to use. The finish is a blackened steel with a clear electrophoretic coating. It’s subtle, not flashy, and it serves a practical purpose: the tool sheds fingerprints and shop humidity better than plain carbon steel pliers. The steel is heat-treated to a stated 63–65 HRC, which is on the harder side for multi-function pliers. After several weeks of use, the cutting edges are still sharp, the crimp profiles haven’t mushroomed, and there’s no play at the pivot.

The handle is a bi-material, three-color grip. It’s comfortable, grippy without being gummy, and easy to spot in a crowded pouch. There’s no spring return, which is typical for this format. The overall length and leverage feel just right—long enough to put real force into a 10 AWG crimp, short enough to maneuver inside a dash or junction box.

The jaws are well aligned and the cavities are clearly marked for insulated and non-insulated connectors across the 10–22 AWG range. The tapered nose has serrations for pulling and twisting wire, and the cutter is integrated near the pivot.

Crimping performance

For insulated terminals (the common red/blue/yellow style), the WORKPRO crimper makes solid, repeatable crimps once you pick the right cavity and settle on a consistent squeeze. I ran a series of butt connectors on 14 AWG stranded copper and did a tug test on each. The crimps held without slippage, and insulation distortion was minimal when using the insulated-specific cavity. On 18–22 AWG spades, the tool required a touch more finesse; lighter-gauge terminals can deform if you over-squeeze. The leverage will do the work—your job is to stop as soon as the metal flows.

For non-insulated terminals and ferrules, the tool’s indenter-style cavity makes a firm mechanical connection. It’s not a hex or square profile like a dedicated ferrule crimper would provide, but for field repairs and general-purpose electrical work, I had no issues achieving low-resistance, durable crimps. On 10–12 AWG ring terminals, the longer handles really pay off. I could complete the crimp in a single controlled squeeze without resorting to two-handed theatrics.

A quick note on technique:
- Strip to the manufacturer’s length and don’t twist the strands excessively.
- Seat the barrel fully in the correct-size cavity.
- Position so the seam of the barrel is opposite the indenter.
- Squeeze steadily until the tool bottoms out, then stop. Over-crimping can cut strands or crack nylon insulation.

If you’re working to strict standards (certain marine or aerospace applications), a ratcheting crimper with matched dies may be required. For automotive, home electrical, and general fabrication, this tool’s results are reliable and consistent.

Cutting and nose work

The cutter cleanly severs stranded copper up to 10 AWG. With 12–16 AWG, it’s a one-and-done snip. On 10 AWG, a firm squeeze gets you through in one motion; I never needed to “chew” the conductor. It’s not a flush cutter and it’s not meant for hardened materials. Don’t use it on steel cable, piano wire, or nails if you want to keep the edge pristine.

The tapered, serrated nose is handy. I’ve used it to fish and pull a lead through a crowded conduit, bend pigtails neatly, and twist pairs before tapping. It’s not a replacement for a dedicated long-nose plier, but being able to do light shaping and retrieval without switching tools is a legitimate time saver.

Ergonomics and handling

Comfort is strong. The grips spread the force well, so crimping a run of 12–16 AWG connectors doesn’t leave hot spots in the palm. The anti-slip texture stays secure even with a bit of oil on your hands. The pivot is smooth—tight enough to feel composed, loose enough not to fight you during repetitive work.

At 9.5 inches, the tool balances leverage with control. In tight quarters, the tapered nose lets you get the business end where it needs to be, though your hand still occupies some space. I was able to crimp inside a fuse block cavity without pulling the whole block, which isn’t always the case with bulkier ratcheting tools.

Durability and maintenance

The hard steel and protective finish inspire confidence. After several shop sessions, I see no chipping at the cutter and no corrosion at the pivot. I wipe the tool down after use and store it dry. A drop of light oil on the joint now and then keeps it silky.

Because the tool is quite hard, I avoid abusive cuts. If you keep it on copper and aluminum conductors and use the right cavity for the job, it should hold its edges and profiles for years.

Where it falls short

• No ratcheting mechanism. You are the quality control. Good technique yields excellent results; poor technique can flatten or partially crimp a connector. For production work or where every crimp must be identical, a ratcheting tool is better.
• No integrated wire stripper. You’ll need a separate stripper to prep conductors, which is fine by me but worth noting if you prefer an all-in-one.
• Limited specialty profiles. If you regularly crimp heat-shrink butt connectors that benefit from a double crimp, or if you use ferrules to strict spec, a dedicated die set will outperform this generalist.

None of these are deal-breakers for the intended audience; they’re simply the boundaries of the format.

Tips for best results

• Match the cavity to the connector size (10–22 AWG) and material (insulated vs non-insulated).
• Place the barrel seam opposite the indenter for maximum mechanical grip.
• Perform a quick tug test after each crimp.
• Keep the cutter for copper/aluminum only; skip hardened materials.
• Wipe off the protective oil before first use and reapply a light coat if you work in damp environments.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and mechanics who need a dependable crimper/cutter for 10–22 AWG on vehicles, trailers, boats, and small appliances.
• Electricians who want a compact, high-leverage backup for service calls where space is tight.
• Hobbyists wiring panels, lighting, and low-voltage accessories.

If your day job is building harnesses eight hours a day, invest in a ratcheting system. If you need a tough, accurate, thoughtfully made crimper you can toss in a bag and trust, this WORKPRO crimper fits the brief.

The bottom line

The WORKPRO 9.5-inch crimper hits a sweet spot: durable steel, protective finish, clean cutting, and consistent crimps across the common 10–22 AWG range, all with comfortable ergonomics and useful nose geometry. It’s not trying to be a specialized, production-grade tool, and that’s its strength—it’s a reliable, grab-and-go solution that covers most everyday electrical connections without fuss.

Recommendation: I recommend this tool. It produces secure crimps on both insulated and non-insulated terminals, cuts cleanly up to 10 AWG, and the high-leverage, comfortable design makes repetitive work manageable. For users who need absolute uniformity or specialty profiles, pair it with a ratcheting set; for everyone else, this is a solid, durable crimper/cutter you’ll actually enjoy using.